fuel problem.... i think.....

[toddious]

My truck started acting somewhat funny today, or at least i noticed it today. From a stand still, when stepping on the gas, it sputters a little, like it wants to stall out from lack of fuel, but then continues.

even once driving, the power seems to come in surges. it will kick in and out, not stay steady, even when i stomp on the gas.

my guesses are: fuel pump, distributor, spark plugs/wires.

anyone got any help? or how to better diagnose?

 

[FreeWheelin4x4]

I was thinking fuel filter maybe? Cheaper part to replace .

BTW Wish I was back in Florida, moved up to the frigid north from Apopka.

 

[toddious]

I was thinking fuel filter maybe? Cheaper part to replace .

BTW Wish I was back in Florida, moved up to the frigid north from Apopka.

how much is a fuel filter? I'm thinking of just changin the spark plugs anyway, cause it's never been done in the 2 years i've had the car, so i might as well change the fuel filter if it is cheap. hopefully one of these two simple solutions will solve the problem. is changing a fuel filter easy? and what about my wires, do they go bad easily? and how much for mediocre grade wires? thanks, todd.

 

[Turdle]

Tood, I'd look at the fuel pump relay also, maybe switch it with another?

 

[Skibum1989]

Todd, a fuel filter will run you about 10 bucks, most people reccomend changing it once a year. It can be difficult to do without the tools and proper directions, but search the site for it and it will be a no brainer.

 

[gavin]

I agree with the fuel filter.
I replaced mine over the summer, first time it had ever been replaced. It was definately dirty, and I did notice a bit of an improvement when I replaced it.
And yeah it's only around $10, and then around $5-10 for the tool to remove the fuel lines from it.
Took me about 20 min or so to replace mine.

 

[toddious]

I agree with the fuel filter.
I replaced mine over the summer, first time it had ever been replaced. It was definately dirty, and I did notice a bit of an improvement when I replaced it.
And yeah it's only around $10, and then around $5-10 for the tool to remove the fuel lines from it.
Took me about 20 min or so to replace mine.

awesome, i will try this....

as far as spark plugs, is it going to make a big difference between a $3 plug and a $5 plug? any recommendations?

 

[Ford_Racing_Guy]

go with the Stock Motorcraft plugs, but they may be pricey

so far i've had good luck with the NGK V-power and G-powers.

the V-power is a good cheap plug, the G-power is a step up with a platinum tip.

 

[toddious]

ok i will look into those, thanks...

 

[marragtop]

If you are going to do the plugs, do the wires as well if they are original. Half the battle is doing the plugs (go thru the wheel wells to get to them). Might as well do the wires while you are in there.

 

[toddious]

what kind of estimated price should i expect (for both plugs and wires)? am i going to get screwed buying them from a discount auto parts, as opposed to online?

 

[gavin]

I purchased my plug wires from a local B&C Carquest. They have 2 dif part #s for the 97 model year, so know the build date (if it's a V8 anyway)
and I got motorcraft platinum plugs from wally world.
I believe the plugs were somewhere around $30 for 8? Could be wrong on that guesstimate...
and my plug wires ran me around $60

oh, and changing the plugs when you have a body lift makes it MUCH easier

 

[toddious]

so i changed out the fuel filter yesterday. truck seems to idle a lot better, however hasn't solved my jolting power situation...

tried something today, don't know if this might help diagnose:

When i put the truck in neutral, and rev on the engine, it is pretty smooth throughout the rpm's, with very little if any feelings of misfiring.

when i put the truck into drive, with one foot on the brake, and start to gas, the engine immediately seems sluggish, and almost like it wants to stall. This continues throughout rpm's as your driving, somewhat violently at times.

I was thinking of trying the plugs/wires next. would a fuel pump act like this? or distributor? thanks, todd.

 

[gavin]

fuel pressure regulator?

 

[Billy177]

do you have a check engine light on?

 

[toddious]

no check engine light.....

fuel pressure regulator? it's weird that it seems to work fine, until in gear, where it really has trouble.

how could i check the FPR? do i just check the fuel pressure, like i would testing the fuel pump? how do you know if it's the fuel pump malfunctioning, or the fuel pressure regulator? and would you suspect this before plugs/wires, distributor, or fuel pump?

 

[Turdle]

Is it possible, bad gas?

 

[gavin]

bad gas is another possibility.
The reason it could affect when in gear, but no affect when not in gear, is due to the amount of work the engine actually has to do. When in neutral, it's just the engine revving. When in gear, the engine is under more stress because of the tranny (takes more fuel because it's doing more work)
To check the FPR, there should be a small hose going to it from the upper intake (although I could be wrong). If you remove that hose, and smell it, and there's gas or a smell of gas, it could be the FPR.
And the newer Explorers do not have distributors.
It may or may not be worth replacing the FPR first... the part may be cheaper, but also may be a bigger PITA to replace than the plugs/wires, but would be worth a shot before replacing the fuel pump.

 

[toddious]

well it's not bad gas. i filled the tank about a week and a half ago, and it was fine for the first 1/2 of the same tank.

so there should not be any gas in the hose for the FPR? is that the only way to detect that it's malfunctioning? and what about the fuel pump, i need to check the pressure to determine if it is functioning right, correct?

i think i am going to be changing out plugs/wires either way as soon as i can get them. i have not changed either in the 2 years i've had the truck, and don't know how long before they were changed.

 

[gavin]

the other thing you could do, although would require 2 people, would be to test the fuel pressure in neutral or park, then put it in gear, and see if the pressure changes at all, and then find out what the ideal pressure is for each way. I do not know, but I'm sure it would be in a Chilton's or somebody here may know.
And unfortunately, the only EASY way to test an FPR is to check for gas/gas smell in the hose to the FPR... atleast, that I know of.