Fuel pump multiple eec codes

[osteologation]

I am getting codes KOEO 327 (I know why), and after separator pulse (continuous mem?) I get 122, 172, 176, 214, 327, 543, 556.

I just replaced the tps (code 122) but havent reset codes. I backtracked everything associated with fuel pump wiring and had 14 volts (vehicle running) at all terminals (relay, inertia, plugs on inner fender and fuel pump) vehicle runs but has a rough idle and sometimes stalls on start but will always catch the second time. Rented a fuel pressure tester and it builds pressure very very slow.
barely off zero till i pull the vacuum off of the regulator then slowly gets up to 40. And it recovers very slowly after i hook the vacuum back up to regulator. There is no fuel in regulator vacuum line.
Has a recent tune up (air/fuel filter, plugs/wires, oil change)

my guess with the slow fuel pressure and lean codes from o2 (plugs are pretty light in color) is either a bad regulator or a bad fuel pump. my gut says fuel pump though as its got 197k miles, plus they are relatively inexpensive and easy to change. I know regulators dont always fail the same but it does function just seems slow to cover. if engine is revved(or vac pulled) the pressure will get up to 40 just slowly. my last reg that failed just sat at 22lbs all the time.

Made a video of the problem (symptom?)

 

[wood1]

I'd change the fuel filter again to be sure but sounds like you already know what it is. How much is a new regulator? It would seem strange for it to fail again so soon.

 

[osteologation]

I'd change the fuel filter again to be sure but sounds like you already know what it is. How much is a new regulator? It would seem strange for it to fail again so soon.

The regulator that I replaced was in a previous sploder. Ill prolly hit the JY up for a spare reg but I believe its the pump. It will hold pressure when shut off and if the reg was bleeeding pressure it wouldn't hold. I posted jsut to make sure im not missing anything obvious. Ive been known to do things the hard way.

 

[wood1]

I hear that dude... been there.

Let me know how you make out.

 

[osteologation]

Changed fuel pump. Idle still poor. Unplug cmp. Idle better. Drive 20 mins.idle smooth but at 1k. Also if I unplug mass air it stalls, almost immediately. Never had that happen on my other explorers before. I unplugged batt. And hope to get a fuel pressure and vac gauge soon.

 

[osteologation]

Changed fuel pump. Idle still poor. Unplug cmp. Idle better. Drive 20 mins.idle smooth but at 1k. Also if I unplug mass air it stalls, almost immediately. Never had that happen on my other explorers before. I unplugged batt to reset computer. And hope to get a fuel pressure and vac gauge soon.

 

[osteologation]

Picked up a vac gauge today and noticed erratic vac readings. Checked lines and the brake booster line was cut. While it helped it still isn't perfect. Unplugging maf does nothing whatsoever. runs the same either way. reset codes and took it for a spin and got 176 - which is o2 not switch is/was lean. and 214 which is the cmp. after taking it for a spin it runs and drives great. idle is high again around 1k. vac at 1k idle is 22-23 and and it was around 18 - 19 at 800 rpm when i first turned it on. Why is it idling so high? (with the awesome vac reading). the lean o2 may be an exhaust leak at the flange (which) will be fixed here in a few as soon as manifold cools down.

 

[osteologation]

would a cps be at fault? it was idling rough and stalled. i then unplugge dthe cps to clean it and now it wont start.

 

[wood1]

sounds like you are chasing it down, I thought if the cam position sensor was dead the engine wouldn't run?

edit:

oops, phone rang so I didn't see your post. I have a '93 which doesn't have a cps so not knowing... I have read about it here, search it out

 

[osteologation]

sounds like you are chasing it down, I thought if the cam position sensor was dead the engine wouldn't run?

edit:

oops, phone rang so I didn't see your post. I have a '93 which doesn't have a cps so not knowing... I have read about it here, search it out

from what i read the cam sensor controls the sequential injection otherwise it defaults to the batch fire that the previous models used.

as far as chasing it down, its rough on obd1 but the only money spent so far has been 20$ for a tps(which fixed code) and 22$ on ebay for a fuel pump(which is ok since i did the hatch access mod and it has 197k miles). mostly just time with a volt meter, test light, vac guage, and fuel pressure tester.

now dont get on my case about fuel pump lol i kept the old one just in case and i will likely get a walbro if i can since i have family that works there.

 

[wood1]

from what i read the cam sensor controls the sequential injection otherwise it defaults to the batch fire that the previous models used.

as far as chasing it down, its rough on obd1 but the only money spent so far has been 20$ for a tps(which fixed code) and 22$ on ebay for a fuel pump(which is ok since i did the hatch access mod and it has 197k miles). mostly just time with a volt meter, test light, vac guage, and fuel pressure tester.

now dont get on my case about fuel pump lol i kept the old one just in case and i will likely get a walbro if i can since i have family that works there.

If that's the case, why would anyone bother replacing the cam sensor? Batch fire works fine and '94's aren't known for better mileage/power etc... I'd leave it the way it is, you say it runs good now?

That FP from China? $22???

Couldn't help but heat you up over that one dude...

 

[osteologation]

If that's the case, why would anyone bother replacing the cam sensor? Batch fire works fine and '94's aren't known for better mileage/power etc... I'd leave it the way it is, you say it runs good now?

That FP from China? $22???

Couldn't help but heat you up over that one dude...

It's not running now. It sputtered and died. I checked for spark - none. Cleaned cps plug -nada. I will take the ignition module up to be tested today. Maybe steal the cps off my brothers ex.

 

[NavajoAficionad]

"...ok since i did the hatch access mod

You mention the hatch access mod. Do you mean you cut through the floor of the cab to get to the fuel pump? If so could you describe the location of trhe cut-out? That would make life easier for me since I need to trace a fuel float or wiring problem.

Good luck and thanks if you can describe the cutout mod.

 

[osteologation]

This is not my pic but I followed this exactly. From the two raised ridges forward and it works perfect.

 

[NavajoAficionad]

Fantastic picture. I searched of other threads and the picture of your cut out seems to be the smallest example so I will try to copy yours. Thanks for the info.

 

[osteologation]

swapped a bunch of stuff with my bothers exploder. this only seems to be a cold start issue. once its warmed up this things idles/drives great. definitely tell the difference with the cam sensor plugged in or not while driving, low speed response is much better with it plugged in.my high idle is caused by the IAC being worn (eroded?). a good cleaning made it better but I can live with it for now. I had autoparts test the ignition module and it passed 4 times in a row. I still need to test the fuel pressure so that will be on the agenda. Dang I hate having to buy another guage ( i lost the little adapter and no one has one). But even swapping all those sensors my brothers ex ran fine.

 

[osteologation]

checked the ect sensor and it seems to be good.
here is a good link that i had a hard time finding on here
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=28

pulled intake and used some gasket maker to replace gaskets for upper intake and egr.

idles good 20 in vac then stumbles a bit fluctuating between 18-20 till it warms up then smooths out. very irritating. maybe low fuel pressure? dirty injectors, seems to be driveable now anyways. would like to get rid of that stumble though its weird.

 

[wood1]

What part was it that you replaced that let it start up? (post 12)

You sure you don't have a vacuum leak? High idle, stumble? Do 94's have EGR?

My ex has popped lines off before, vacuum modulator rubber line popped off once, high idle, ran a bit crappy, hard to start.

 

[osteologation]

What part was it that you replaced that let it start up? (post 12)

You sure you don't have a vacuum leak? High idle, stumble? Do 94's have EGR?

My ex has popped lines off before, vacuum modulator rubber line popped off once, high idle, ran a bit crappy, hard to start.

IDK it started right up and never repeated that no start.

Ive pulled and plugged every line while its running stupid and it doesnt change it, that is why i pulled the upper intake. 94's do have egr but the tube is broke, and shouldnt the egr only open when its warmed up cause thats when it runs good lol.

would unplugging the dpfe stop the egr from open/close?

hard to explain the the IAC valve barely seats with the motor on it, its got high miles and i think due to wear the valvle will not seat. i cleaned and spun it like i was seating a valve and with the motor off its good. but with motor on it lets a tiny bit of air through. right now it will idle about 900 rpm.

 

[wood1]

Yeah figured if you pulled the intake off it you were chasing something. DPFE... haven't had to think about that stuff since I sold the 5.0. Miss that car at times. If it runs good, drive it. The IAC will need to be replaced eventually but for the time being leave it. 900 is fine.