'Gremlins?' 'Morgellons?' '???'

[Terkins]

(I had some trade-in value left so) I installed a new Interstate MTX-65 AGM battery last week. CCA 750; CA 935. I've taken several trips including going 'over-the-mountain' to Charlottesville since. All has seemed 'well' until last night. (My 3-yr-old lead acid battery was rated at 675 CCA.)

I also added an accessory plug-powered (3A), heated seat cushion. (To this item) I added an (red LED) on/off switch so it can be turned off easily when exiting. However, at one of my stops, I'd forgotten to turn it off. [Meanwhile both the new on/off switch (and a second, identical one powering my dashcam/etc. simultaneously) quit displaying their built-in (red) 'ON' LEDs? I tested them each: They were still cutting power on/off (each).]

When I went to try to open the drivers' door, it was locked. I could see the opposite door unlocked still (?) I tried my key fob several times...then my 'spare' key fob: Neither would pop the lock on the drivers' door lock! I tried both keys in the (drivers) door lock itself: Neither would turn/open the (drivers) door? I walked over to the passenger door, opening it, and activated the lock/unlock switch on the passenger door armrest. The driver's door lock popped open! I returned to the drivers side and switched off/unplugged the heated seat cushion. I tried locking the drivers door using the door switch: That switch worked. I then tried again to pop my door locks using the key fob: 'Nothing'; key-in-drivers-door-lock: (again) 'Immovable'. (The store was going to close so I locked the vehicle and left it be.)

When I returned, my key fob opened both front doors as usual.

I plugged the heated car seat into the top accessory plug and it began working fine.

(Both red 'ON' LEDs on both accessory plug lead switches were still non-illuminating, though power was being conducted through each to the respective accessories connected.)

(I'm beginning to fear that the electricity from the new, AGM battery is somehow 'foreign' to my 2000 Explorer? Is it supplying TOO MUCH CURRENT and 'playing (hidden electronic) games' with the electronics in my Explorer? (I've never experienced these kinds of behaviors before.)

 

[CDW6212R]

Keep the battery charged, avoid activating any electrical devices when the battery has been drained a known amount(you left something on). Does the engine start? The battery should be fine if it started after the heater left on, given you said the draw was 3amps.

The door locks are very sensitive to cold weather when they are old. When old, sometimes the lock will not fully open, or make any noise/movement. If that happens, it's best to replace the actuators that you worry about. New ones will not have that problem for many years.

The battery is appropriate if the voltage is up(near 12v). The LED lights are an issue of themselves, quality or the voltage and amperage they are designed to run on. It's best to only power added devices with protected circuits that are cut off with the key removed.

 

[Mbrooks420]

The battery will only supply as much current as dictated by its load. The battery isn’t the issue.

 

[Terkins]

The door locks are very sensitive to cold weather when they are old. When old, sometimes the lock will not fully open, or make any noise/movement. If that happens, it's best to replace the actuators that you worry about. New ones will not have that problem for many years.

The battery is appropriate if the voltage is up(near 12v). The LED lights are an issue of themselves, quality or the voltage and amperage they are designed to run on. It's best to only power added devices with protected circuits that are cut off with the key removed.

'Thanks' for helping sort this out! I'll have to look into replacing the drivers' door actuator...

The new battery is great for starting in now-frigid weather. (Plug-in gauge reads 12.9V-12.7V (since new battery was installed; charges between 14.4V-13.8V, depending on 'what's on?')

The (Chinese) rocker-switches' 'red-ON' LEDs are probably toasted--('no worry'). Each (of two) DC power plugs (attached) are fuse-protected; they each have their own (additional) 'red-ON' LEDs (that work!).

Provided the added two rocker switches are "OFF"--when the key is removed (DC (female) ACC plugs are always 'LIVE' (12V)): I've read that those DC-power-plug, mini-LEDs consume exceedingly-little current and are not a factor towards battery drain (if left alone)?

It's less-wear-and-tear to simply flip the (added) rocker switches than to plug/unplug the DC plugs each entry/exit from the vehicle. (The only 'problem' is (senioritis)/forgetting to flip the rockers off each exit (by habit).)