Heim joint TTB?

[jd4242]

Can you take the 2wd coupling and bore it out so you can use 4x4 outs and 4x2 arms

 

[red.EDDIE.4x4]

Also to get flex you would have to mount them vertical so they would flex uo and down but when you mount them that way you would not have any turning radius.mount them horizontal and you get no flex

What are you talking about? I've seen people use heims on SAS deals before, while they flex and turn...
They make those little cone type things that go above and below he heim to allow flex ( the name escapes me at the moment, and I can't post a pic because I'm using an iPhone.)

 

[red.EDDIE.4x4]

Can you take the 2wd coupling and bore it out so you can use 4x4 outs and 4x2 arms

I believe you've got it backwords.. And no I can't bore it out, the walls are too thin, this I am weakening the coupling.

As far as machining goes the only logical way is to turn down the drag link to use 4x4 couplings (which have a smaller dia). But it would be nearly impossible to do that considering the drag link is bend in he first place

 

[jd4242]

Hahah I'm on my droid and I was trying to find pics too.I'm just thing about my heims on my jd arms they go up and down but they max out when you pull the left and right.my be completely different for heims for steering,but I can't really find it on my phone!! I like this thread as I feel I need more than the fa 600 and don't want to spend mad money for steering arms!!

 

[jd4242]

I believe you've got it backwords.. And no I can't bore it out, the walls are too thin, this I am weakening the coupling.

As far as machining goes the only logical way is to turn down the drag link to use 4x4 couplings (which have a smaller dia). But it would be nearly impossible to do that considering the drag link is bend in he first place

Wow that much bigger? That's way better of an idea.wouldn't they just be turning down the same area that is threaded now?

 

[red.EDDIE.4x4]

Nice...
Yeah I feel the same with the fa600. It just seems like I would lose turning radius since it's so long and looks overall like it makes a smaller radius then other pitman arms.

 

[red.EDDIE.4x4]

Wow that much bigger? That's way better of an idea.wouldn't they just be turning down the same area that is threaded now?

Yes it would be. Then just single point thread it on a lathe. But like I said, it is impossible because the rod has a bend in it. If it was straight then it's fine.
Just imagine taking cuts at a 24"+ bent stock of metal spinning at 510 or 710 rpm! Does that not spell stupidity?

 

[jd4242]

My turning is the same.but when I flex the tires pull together real bad and thro alignment way out

 

[jd4242]

Haha yea just do it by hand.thread it a step down till you reach the right size.or is it way bigger?

 

[red.EDDIE.4x4]

Haha yea just do it by hand.thread it a step down till you reach the right size.or is it way bigger?

By no means am I going to do it by hand, and by hand I assume you mean using a tap/die set...reason being, if I F it up(die not being straight,etc...) then I have to start over at square 1. And I don't have a set that big enough, it looks like 3/4-18 or 7/8-18. And I would not only have to buy just one, but buy them in stages getting smaller till I reach the correct size. It just sounds like a total PITA.
Im thinking instead, I chop the coupling in half and keep the drag link end while I weld in a threaded bung(I think that's what it's called) to recieve the heim. Then drill out the knuckle. Then sandwhich the heim between 2 of those "cone" things.
Then do it again on the drivers side.

 

[jd4242]

I don't know much about heim.so if they would flex I don't see why they would work.I was just brainstorming out loud,figured someone with some knowledge whould have chimed in by now,but I just look what time it is and noone is up at 4am hahah.maniak with probably have some kind of knowledge in the morning!!

 

[1994B4000]

Well, if you have machine shop access could you turn custom adjustment sleeves? If they had the 2wd thread size on one side and the 4x4 thread size on the other you could run 4x4 outer TREs on 2wd inner links. Instead of using clamps to lock them down you could use jam nuts because that would mean the sleeve would be way simpler to make.

I don't know if the overall length would work out to let you align it, that's the real question I guess... But, your custom adjustment adjustment sleeves wouldn't be a wear item. You could just buy stock 4x4 outers when they wear out and stock 2wd inners when those wear.

Okay, that's my crazy idea for the day... Glad to get that out of the way.

 

[Naasau]

Well, it would seem to me that you would need extreme flex heims for tie rod ends for them to be effective. Regular heims will not work with the TTB axle, as they do not have the ability to rotate at the necessary angle. If you really want to get rid of the issues associated with our 'inverted y' steering setup, you could see if someone wants to let you look over a Superlift Superrunner Steering Setup that you could then fabricate and beef up, which wouldn't be that hard, even with a hard grinder and a welder, let alone a full machine shop.
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-32745-superlift-superunner-steering.html

Another option is Stone Crusher Steering is coming out with a new linkage for the TTB axle that looks awesome, and they are known for quality products. The tester that they had on ThatFabGuy's rig even used extreme flex Heim Joints that looked incredible. And if you really wanted to, you could just buy those heims from their site and make your own linkage in their image, it would be even easier to fabricate than a beefed superrunner setup.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2424797&postcount=23

I guess the cliff notes version of my thoughts is to do it once, and do it right. The steering linkage that you got I would just throw out, as no matter what you do it looks like it will be a PITA and be ineffective to boot. Just my two cents worth.

 

[red.EDDIE.4x4]

Well, if you have machine shop access could you turn custom adjustment sleeves? If they had the 2wd thread size on one side and the 4x4 thread size on the other you could run 4x4 outer TREs on 2wd inner links. Instead of using clamps to lock them down you could use jam nuts because that would mean the sleeve would be way simpler to make.

I don't know if the overall length would work out to let you align it, that's the real question I guess... But, your custom adjustment adjustment sleeves wouldn't be a wear item. You could just buy stock 4x4 outers when they wear out and stock 2wd inners when those wear.

Okay, that's my crazy idea for the day... Glad to get that out of the way.

well i would but it may get a little tricky trying to find a reverse thread tap that is the correct size... or sizes...


and the stone crusher steering looks good. but once again the problem is with the drop of the pitman arm so steering arms are level.

i still think using heims would just look sicker... but anywho, i have now decided that i will buy a set of 4x4 couplings, and a set of 2wd couplings and cut them each in half. then i will take the 4x4 outers and weld them to the 2wd inners. does this sound acceptable?
lemme know what you guys think

 

[red.EDDIE.4x4]

this is what i was going for on top of my steering knuckle btw. then connect these to the drag links.

 

[4x4junkie]

I'm confused as to what it is you're trying to do here...

Are you thinking all the bends in the steering linkage is somehow going to cure the need for a dropped pitman arm? If so, you're mistaken. All the bends & kinks in the world are not going to change the fact that between the two points where it attaches is a straight line (this is a geometry issue). You need to change the actual location of it's attaching point to affect anything.

 

[4X50 Exploder]

Just wondering...

I'm not totally sure but I believe that the use of helms in the steering system is illegal in some states other than purely off road use. If you have to pass inspection or the cops in your area are sticklers, (for sake of being polite) better check the laws first...

 

[1994B4000]

Okay so I looked at the parts catalogs some more. TRW shows both a 20mm and 22mm thread outer tie rod end for 4x4. (Only for the Explorer I think.) The other manufacturers don't. That sounds like about 3/4" and 7/8" to me. Perhaps there are different TRE out there that do fit?

What 4x4junkie said is true about the geometry. But, I think I see what you are doing. You said you were running a drop arm already just not a really long drop. So you will have bump steer and whatever other geometry evils but not as much as if you had the stock arm. If the TRE don't bind and everything aligns you're going to judge how much bump steer is acceptable for your application. After all, even the stock setup has some... :scratch:

PS I was thinking of cutting the threads on a lathe for the sleeve. But if the threads are metric and the lathe has an imperial leadscrew I don't think you can do multiple cuts which might be a problem with anything hard enough to be part of your steering... I'm not a machinist though.

 

[red.EDDIE.4x4]

4x4junkie, I'm going to draw some pics better explaining myself after work.

And as for laws...inspection... And other junk like that, Oklahoma doesn't have inspection nor do most cops care about how a vehicle works. Aslog as it's safe and can move then most of them are cool with anythig.

B4000 hit it right on the head as to what my problem(s) is. I have your average drop pitman arms that comes in every single kit, yet it's not enough. I do not want to buy the FA 600 because it's expensive (I don't have the money right now) and I just don't think it will solve my problem. So I am just going to experiment with different styles of steering setups till I find one I like.

 

[Brandon@BTF-fab]

wow...

your truck most likely won't align because you have tierods that are bent to hell. when you bend them, they get shorter, which is why you have very little thread left for adjusting.
you do not need the outer TRE's to flex hardly at all, when the truck flexes. the steering stays very close to the same angle as the beam does as it articulates. Most heims actually articulate (flex) LESS then a lot of stock balljoints and TRE's. the "cone things" are called high-misalignment spacers.

also, the superrunner steering setup is garbage, from a geometry standpoint. steer clear of kits like that.