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Help:eek: Aussie damsel in distress here:-)

Second post coming but Donalds knows alot about your motor... He REALLY knows better than the auto parts counter guy... My concern about the 40wt is those tensioners idk how that syrup is flowing like is it 80 degrees at night?
thanks for that, I'll take note! we clueless ones never know who to listen to. I've decided to change the oil to what you guys suggest and also change the spark plugs...fingers crossed the dual fuel LPG switching problem solved.
 



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Very small oil passages for that thick oil

If you want thicker oil just buy 10w 30 high mileage
Imo
I really honestly have no idea what oil to put in. Unlike most on this site I truly have no idea about cars. In the 9 years I've owned cars I 've always had old cars and the last two have been 20 yr old Fairlanes on dual fuel (100 acre old Ford Factory up the road, so 20 yr old Fords very common around here) and my old trusted mechanic just serviced them no worries. He's retired and moved while I've been studenting this past year.

Anyhow it seems I'm annoying the hell outta ppl on this site/thread...Koda has become so exasperated he's left. Takes all types to make up this world-I'm obviously not a tech type, just a Chatty Kathy who will evangelize about Explorers, hoping to encourage others to revive and keep these on the road. Encourage many on my path and in my extensive network to buy them and love them back into existence.

But I get it, I waste the time of you guys, so sorry.You've all be inordinately kind, thanks again. I'll change the oil to what you suggest, and leave you all in peace now. Gratitude & cheerio from Oz
 






You are not annoying us you are learning
You're fine
Keep asking questions please
 












Use 5w30. Any brand, synthetic or conventional.
 






Oil threads can get very opinionated. Here are some things I think everyone can agree on:

Multiweight oil (labeled with a W between two numbers) varies in viscosity as it’s temperature changes. The goal is to provide oil to the entirety of the oil system, at the right pressure, as rapidly as possible, and maintain that ideal pressure as the engine heats up. A properly selected multiweight oil will do this nearly flawlessly, while with a single weight you’ll have to compromise somewhere.

The first number in a multiweight is it’s viscosity at a lower temp, and the second number is it’s viscosity at a higher temp. I can’t remember the exact temps. Between those temps, the viscosity of the oil varies with temp. They make a multiweight by using a light base stock and adding in polymers that thicken the oil as it heats up. So a 5W30 oil is a 5wt base stock (thin) with polymers that will make it thicken up to behave like a 30wt oil by a particular temp. This allows the engine to be run over a wide range of environmental/ambient temperatures and still have the favorable qualities I mentioned above. The oil is thin enough for cold morning starts, and thick enough for a hard run on a hot day. The manufacturers pick an oil that covers a very high percentage of environments that they anticipate the vehicle to be used in. For this engine and its oil system, operating temps, anticipated use, expected climate, etc, Ford recommends 5W30.

Now, if you live in northern Alaska, you may want to go with a lighter weight oil. Perhaps 0W20 will be a better fit, giving good pumpability at start. That said, there are other factors. Having an engine block/oil pan heater is one of them.

If you live in the desert (or the Outback, where temperatures sometimes reach 50°C), you may want to go the other direction. Maybe a 10W40 is a better fit.

Either way, I wouldn’t venture too far from the manufacturer recommendations. Unless you live in a colder environment, 10W40 likely isn’t going to hurt anything, especially in the short term. That said, I would run 5W30 at the next change unless you have a good reason not to. If you’re in a cold environment, I would change it sooner rather than later. Remember, the goal is to get oil throughout the engine at the proper pressure, as rapidly as possible. In an ideal world, you want the thinnest oil possible that will shoot through the system with as little resistance as possible, and rapidly bring system pressure into the heart off the envelope. This is why, IMO, the smaller number matters the most—most engine wear occurs during start. Thinner is better—to a point.

Another reason to run a heavier oil? If your engine is really worn out. I’m talking big mileage, oil pressure light flickering at idle worn out.
 






Woah, wait...hold up c420sailor did you just say something about oil? Lemme read that again, I may have a strong opinion I NEED to share with the crew talking about oil is like my bread and butter!hmm, no looks good but oh man don't even get me started about the taste/smell/feeling/color/slipperyness of oil 😀
 






Woah, wait...hold up c420sailor did you just say something about oil? Lemme read that again, I may have a strong opinion I NEED to share with the crew talking about oil is like my bread and butter!hmm, no looks good but oh man don't even get me started about the taste/smell/feeling/color/slipperyness of oil 😀
Are you sure you're not talking about vaseline?

:pics:
 


















You almost had me shocked a bit there for a second when I saw the hefty price tag of $79.99. But then I realized the $ sign was obviously the upside down one.
Remember minimum wage here is $19ph, so every $79.99 bottle is filled with the sweat and tears of jostling autoshop sales kids on $25ph each (before commission).
 






Minimum here is 7.25hr lmao
 






upside of that I guess is your oil is cheap:D btw update on my poor old car is autogas Magic man was indeed great. showed me there is zero wrong with the gas switching. Shook his head at the invoices and swore a lot....asked why, while charging me hundreds of $ over nonsense, none of the previous SIX damn fools had seen or mentioned the TIMING CHAIN massacre about to occur:banghead:

As I listened to my dreams being slaughtered, i was reversing within his workshop, had to turn hard & something under the car crunched then clunked - i think it was the sway bars and calipers abandoning ship...running away for a less tragic life😢
Anyway, he felt so sorry for me he charged me nothing:confused2:

Thank god I'm going back to work in 2021, think this is gonna be a money pit and a half. Seems I'll need to replace its *entire* innards now😭😩
 






Why would something happen with your sway bars and calipers?
 






Ugh.

This is one of those things that gets very expensive very fast if you’re not doing your own work :/

That said, my trucklet’s first engine lasted 80,000mi from when the chains started making noise until I finally got around to replacing the engine (it never jumped time). It was just unnerving sounding. Some people don’t have as much luck, though.
 






upside of that I guess is your oil is cheap:D btw update on my poor old car is autogas Magic man was indeed great. showed me there is zero wrong with the gas switching. Shook his head at the invoices and swore a lot....asked why, while charging me hundreds of $ over nonsense, none of the previous SIX damn fools had seen or mentioned the TIMING CHAIN massacre about to occur:banghead:

As I listened to my dreams being slaughtered, i was reversing within his workshop, had to turn hard & something under the car crunched then clunked - i think it was the sway bars and calipers abandoning ship...running away for a less tragic life😢
Anyway, he felt so sorry for me he charged me nothing:confused2:

Thank god I'm going back to work in 2021, think this is gonna be a money pit and a half. Seems I'll need to replace its *entire* innards now😭😩
So if there’s nothing wrong with the LPG why does it run poorly on it?
 






...

As I listened to my dreams being slaughtered, i was reversing within his workshop, had to turn hard & something under the car crunched then clunked - i think it was the sway bars and calipers abandoning ship...

That was not related to the sway bars or brakes. If you had it looked at there, they might have concluded it was the 4WD system, but not necessarily a horrible thing. That automatic 4WD type system constantly(when in A4WD) monitors the wheel speeds front to back. So when you turn the front wheels sharply, it will know the speed of the front is faster than the back, and it will engage the 4WD automatically in any conditions.

So likely it was nothing to worry about, when the front driveshaft is engaged by the A4WD system, the front tires, on pavement etc, were moving faster than the back. That makes the 4WD bind up as you have felt before I'm sure, any 4WD does that on dry surfaces etc.

With that A4WD system, just try to drive it slow when turning the wheel hard and backing up. Be easy while turning hard on smooth dry surfaces. You shouldn't notice it much while driving forward, but in reverse it is much more noticeable.
 






So if there’s nothing wrong with the LPG why does it run poorly on it?

I've been thinking about this back and forth for a bit and I've finally come up with a little theory that I believe might explain what's going on.
LPG has less energy than gasoline and (if I got the right numbers) it also has a higher viscosity than gasoline.

Now my theory is that this would mean the fuel injectors not only need to inject more LPG (than they would have to inject gasoline) into the cylinders but the LPG also has more resistance/friction due to the higher viscosity (to explain it in simple words: the "consistency" of the LPG is a tiny tiny tiny bit more like honey than gasoline is and therefore flows a tiny little bit less easily).

So I'm thinking maybe the fuel injectors could just be a little bit clogged up, to the point where they still operate well enough for the engine to run on gasoline but cause trouble and misfires whenever it runs on LPG.
I'm just guessing here, that LPG is somewhat more demanding on the fuel injectors to work 'just perfect' in order for the engine to run right than the gasoline is.

It might of course also be that the fuel pressure of the LPG delivery system isn't quite sufficient or whatever else.

So as a result of my thinking:
I would simply suggest to just go and try a bottle of fuel injector cleaner/treatment and pour that it into the (full gasoline) tank (then drive around with the car only running on gasoline until the tank is pretty much empty and the cleaner has finished doing it's job) - and then afterwards just try and see if that helps anything on the LPG side of running things. (And maybe try again with another product from a different brand if the first didn't help.)
Just to give you an example of the fuel injector cleaner I'm talking about, it's something like this bottle here for example: IC5 Fuel Injector Cleaner and Upper Cylinder Lubricant | Sea Foam (seafoamworks.com). There are a bunch of different brands that have similar ones.

Edit:
My old OHV engine for example runs 'perfectly fine' ever since I replaced the fuel pump. But it's just old and so it runs on the 'lean side of things', meaning the fuel trim from the ECM is so high that it's pretty much just below the threshold of throwing a check engine light most of the time. That's not really uncommon for older engines that run with with older sensors and old fuel injectors and (although I couldn't find any) possibly some tiny vacuum leak(s). So it's absolutely nothing I worry much about as long as the ECM can still regulate it sufficiently with the fuel trim.
But although my old engine still runs absolutely fine on gasoline, I would indeed imagine it might currently not be running just good enough to still be able to run on LPG, if it were a converted engine and was otherwise in the same condition it is in.


About the sway bars... if it's not the 4WD issue that CdW6212R talks about (which I find the most likely explanation), then it might even just be a pair of broken sway bar links.
Those are cheap and super easy to replace, should they be broken. They just wear out with time, especially when they were tightened down excessively when installed. They cost something like 20 $ (US dollars with the $ sign right side up) a pair at the common auto parts stores and can easily and quickly be installed within just a couple of minutes. A professional mechanic is going charge whatever they charge to roll up their sleeves to do it of course. You can usually see if they're completely torn just by looking at them.
There are plenty of threads here in the forum with instructions and pictures.
 






The front sway bar end links are somewhat common to break, in some climates or severe use, because those were plastic OEM. I've broken one of those among six Explorers I've owned. Usually I get around to changing those out for urethane end link bushings(the center link being steel), but my last 98 I didn't and finally broke one.

The rear end links are easy to see by looking under the back, but those are solid steel and the end rubber bushings will wear out. The front end links are a bunch of small parts, so they are easier to break etc.
 



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So if there’s nothing wrong with the LPG why does it run poorly on it?
only 5 cyclinders now. Weird thing is none of this could be heard or was picked up when i bought it and first got it tested. Also it sounds VERY different after the drunk mechanic did ?? to it while I was at work. Like a different truck. I know he put the wrong oil in and my neighbour said he *fell* into/onto the engine ...she said he was ranting drunkenly at my dogs about how I was gonna *kill* him if I found out what he'd done. He freaks out and literally runs away when i ask him what he did (last time literally falling into the river:confused:)

So mystery is, what did he do, or could he have done to wreck the engine so badly within 2 hours? Could he have buggered one spark plug (WISE explorer owner I now am, I know spark plugs could be the issue re: 5 cylinder thing. Especially so suddenly?

Only thing I saw him do was he was holding something out (a band?) and spraying Liquid Moly on it while he had me hold up some little metal stick-like thing - and the engine was revving ever louder.....
 






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