Help! I can't remove my rear brake drum | Ford Explorer Forums

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Help! I can't remove my rear brake drum

tweakedlogic

Well-Known Member
Joined
November 4, 2003
Messages
923
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City, State
memphis, tn
Year, Model & Trim Level
'92 XLT
The other day I noticed a puddle under my left rear wheel. it was brake fluid. So I have a bad wheel cyclinder and I need to replace it pronto.
I cannot get the drum off. The star wheel will not budge. I have tryed penitrating oil and hammers, nothing works. I tried heat but the blow torch was a POS.
does anyone have any tips for getting this off?
 



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mine was giving me trouble, but i just beat the **** out of it around the edges and it came off. not the edge towards the backing plate but the corner edge on the front (lug stud side)
 






Make sure to smack it carefully between the studs, without hitting them. this is where the metal contacts and rusts together. Without being able to dial the shoes back, it will be hard to remove, you will probably screw the shoes up. Are you going to replace those as well?
 






I used a big rubber mallot. Works everytime.
 






May sound like a stupid question, but is your E-brake off?
 






You have to insert a small screwdriver or probe into the star wheel access slot and hold the rachet lever off of the star wheel while you turn it, This will back the pad off and allow the drum to be removed. If the drum is stuck to the axel spraty some penertrating oil ob the center and let it soak overnight. Then give it a rap with a hammer. Should come off. You can also jack up the back end, set the hand brake, start the engine and release the clutch. The force between the brake drum and axel should break it free. BE CAREFUL if you try this.
 






tweakedlogic said:
I cannot get the drum off. The star wheel will not budge. I have tryed penitrating oil and hammers, nothing works. I tried heat but the blow torch was a POS.
does anyone have any tips for getting this off?

You probably have a worn drum that is getting hung up on the brake shoes. The drum develops a bit of a "lip" around the edge of the drum as it wears, and if this isn't periodically filed down it can cause a problem with drum removal. When this happened to me I just grabbed a trusty hammer and started whacking the edge of the drum from behind. It came off. It took part of the shoes with it but it came off.

Hope this helps.
 






andybl said:
You have to insert a small screwdriver or probe into the star wheel access slot and hold the rachet lever off of the star wheel while you turn it, This will back the pad off and allow the drum to be removed. If the drum is stuck to the axel spraty some penertrating oil ob the center and let it soak overnight. Then give it a rap with a hammer. Should come off. You can also jack up the back end, set the hand brake, start the engine and release the clutch. The force between the brake drum and axel should break it free. BE CAREFUL if you try this.
Yes, it's that rachet lever that is giving me the trouble. I can see it (barely), but I can't get it to move. It is in a different position than the other wheel. it is behind and above the star wheel with no way to get to it with out removing the drum. I tried for hours.

The drum can't be that worn judging by the right side drum.

Yes the ebrak was off, yes I used a rubber mallot, a dead blow hammer, 4# steel mallot, pry bars, lube, heat, cussing, nothing works.

I had decided to scrap the rear end and install a second gen, but I cn't find any in the area for less than $400. And Pull-A-Part doesn't have any. so I must fix it. or take it some where ( I don't want to do that).
 






Try hitting the side of the drum with a heavy hammer. While hitting it, try and turn the drum. Repeat this clockwise and counter clockwise and also pry the drum forward from the backing plate. It takes time, but it should work.
 






if you can find new drums at the pull it just beat the hell out of yours till they break off then replace them :D

Try beating on one side of the drum while pulling on the other side and alternate, this worked for me.
 






spindlecone said:
May sound like a stupid question, but is your E-brake off?


took me about 10 minutes to figure that one out one time... x_X :banghead:
 






Beat it off into pcs. Chances are very high you already need new rotors anyways. Don't wait so long to change them next time. Probably, the reason why they won't come off is because the pads have formed a goove into the rotor. Been there, done that...
 






Jakee said:
Beat it off into pcs. Chances are very high you already need new rotors anyways. Don't wait so long to change them next time. Probably, the reason why they won't come off is because the pads have formed a goove into the rotor. Been there, done that...


ermm, how did rotors make there way into this
 






Jakee said:
Beat it off into pcs. Chances are very high you already need new rotors anyways. Don't wait so long to change them next time. Probably, the reason why they won't come off is because the pads have formed a goove into the rotor. Been there, done that...

He has drums, not rotors.
 






If you haven't removed it already, check with a rental business in your area and see if you can rent a large two or three jaw puller. It may bend the drum a little but it should get it off. The center threaded shaft should fit in the center of the axle. The jaws will grab the outside lip of the drum. As you tighten the center threaded shaft it will get tight. Just take a BFH and hit the end of the threaded shaft straight in to the axle. Tighten a bit more and repeat. When it lets go it sometimes sounds like a gunshot or explosion.

Once you use a puller you'll never spend much time on a stuck drum again. It's just much easier and quicker to go get the puller.
 






Yeah, only I borrow the ones from work!!!! You will need a pretty big puller.
 






Nobody has asked this, but is the drum moving at all? If the drum is only being held in by the pads against the ridge, you'll at least be able to wiggle it in and out a little bit.

If that's the case, when you get tired and frustrated from using the BFH (which admittedly can be much more fun at times), try this--

As you probably know, the pads are held onto the backing plate by pins that go through the pads, springs and a retainer clip. What you may not have thought of is that the pins also stick out through the backing plate where they look like nail heads. (Just look at the other side that you were able to disassemble to figure out exactly where the are.) Now us a dremel or another cutting/grinding tool to cut the heads off where they stick through the backing plate. Now when you pull on the drum, the whole assembly should fall to pieces and come apart.
 






I had this same problem I made a tool to reach the stupid little lever, it needs to be kinda like a "c" with an upbend at the end of it. it worked great for me. Then about a month later mac tools had a sale on a brake tool kit, and what do you know it comes with the tool to get at that lever
 






Thanks guys. I haven't had time to work on it for the last couple of days. But I am free tomorrow and plan on fixing it regardless. I really appreiciate the help and advise. I think I will try to make the tool to get the lever first, then try the more extreem measures.
 



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Yoy beat me to it Happy Jack. I didn't know you were on here as well. It shocked me whne I saw your name.

He is right. It will be easier & safer than the BFH method.

I rented a three jaw puller a coule of years ago when I could not get the rear rotar off my Mountaineer. In less than 5 min it was off.
 






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