Helpful thread, for squeak, squeal, chirp noise from V8 and OHV v6 engine compartment

[Bronco2]

You could use any Oil.. unless you use the right ford specs..

I do have both engine with and without cam sync..

when i replace on a friends engine.. the cam sync was totaly worn and a oil soak would not fix or solve the prob..

on engine only usind the oil drive.. it would work even if it is a litle worn..

replace it .. and go..

 

[lancer]

Under bonnet sqeaks etc.

Had the same sounds from under the bonnet of my '96 UN V6 SOHC.

Read the thread about the cam tensioner and thought the worst.

Then I decided to do the old listen to the screwdriver test on various components and found the alternator had a harsh grating sound which indicated to me the bearings could be shot.

Took it down to my local auto sparky who did further sound tests and identified the culprits as being the fan belt tensioner and the fan belt jockey wheel. One of them has a common bracket with the alternator that transferred the grating sound to that unit hence me thinking the alternator was the problem.

He carried out a replacement with new parts at quite a reasonable cost and boy did it make a difference. It is now a much more enjoyable car and very quiet under the bonnet, as it should be with only 44K odd on the clock for the new motor.

Les Bryant
Brisbane, Australia

 

[smcgee1979]

i figured out my problem. put in the engine and had a vac line. forgot one coming off of the vmv and had the line off of the right front of the intake going into the oil fill tube.
corrected problem and no more squeal, or pressure build up in engine.

 

[austinmob]

Had the same sounds from under the bonnet of my '96 UN V6 SOHC.

Read the thread about the cam tensioner and thought the worst.

Then I decided to do the old listen to the screwdriver test on various components and found the alternator had a harsh grating sound which indicated to me the bearings could be shot.

Took it down to my local auto sparky who did further sound tests and identified the culprits as being the fan belt tensioner and the fan belt jockey wheel. One of them has a common bracket with the alternator that transferred the grating sound to that unit hence me thinking the alternator was the problem.

He carried out a replacement with new parts at quite a reasonable cost and boy did it make a difference. It is now a much more enjoyable car and very quiet under the bonnet, as it should be with only 44K odd on the clock for the new motor.

Les Bryant
Brisbane, Australia

Did my alternator tension pulley a couple of weeks ago. $80 supply from ford. Major noise reduction under the hood. 10 minute job.

 

[pyxis]

Quick question...the tab on the electrical connector that locks it into place on the cam sensor broke. That's a reminder to never start a job without adequate lighting

Do I have to replace it or am I going to be alright just leaving it as is? It is a snug fit so I'm somewhat sure it won't slip out. And if I have to replace it, does anyone know if Autozone or O'Reilly's carry that part?

Thanks

 

[Turdle]

Quick question...the tab on the electrical connector that locks it into place on the cam sensor broke. That's a reminder to never start a job without adequate lighting

Do I have to replace it or am I going to be alright just leaving it as is? It is a snug fit so I'm somewhat sure it won't slip out. And if I have to replace it, does anyone know if Autozone or O'Reilly's carry that part?

Thanks

I doubt they do.

I would try to tape it tightly in place. I doubt you will have an issue.

 

[Falcon1964]

How do I get to the sensor?

Jtsmith,

Thanks so much for this thread!!! We had a squeak about a year ago and my mechanic suggested a fan belt and tensioner. I was resistant because I had changed the belt 1 year prior, but I wanted to leave it to the "expert" and I agreed. The squeak was still there and then another mechanic suggested it was the alternator. I changed that myself and still a squeak, so I did what any good computer nerd would do and I surfed the net and found your post. A friend of mine was a Ford mechanic and was very familiar with this problem. I ordered the part from Rock auto. It was shipped fast and in perfect condition. My friend had the special tool, but did not use it. He removed a couple of things on top to gain access and the old CMP slipped out without problem. He noted the position of the old one and slid the new one in. Started the engine and no squeak and no check engine light !! Me and my wife could not be happier. I told the original mechanic what I thought it was and he didn't even know what I was talking about. Time for a new mechanic right?
Thanks again.

This user mentions "removing a couple of things on top to gain access". I have a 95 XLT that I need to replace the CMP on, but I don't know what needs to be removed on the engine to get to the CMP. It looks like if I took the A/C compressor off, I could get to it easier. Is that what you did?

Thanks!

 

[blakshukvw]

No. Remove the coil packs and bracket and you're there.

 

[Varsity]

I need to replace this part on my Sport as well, but when I look up the price at PepBoys, it comes with either a step or w/o a step? Anyone knows what this "step" is? I haven't taken this part off yet and was hoping to get an opinion. I'd like to order this part as soon as possible. Any help is appreciated!

 

[ACsalesman]

Guys, I think I found a new way to goof up this project. This is on a 5.0. I got the old one out and new one in in record time. Cranked it up and I may be fooling myself but I remember the oil pressure coming up like normal. Then it dropped and I can't get it to come back up.

Pulling the sensor off the top of the synchronizer shows the shaft not turning. Then when I tried to remove the synchronizer it's stuck, very stuck! Wouldn't come out with a pry bar or a slide hammer (aluminum casing is losing chunks but that's about it). The new one meshed with gears fine but I may have forced the last 1/16 with the hold down. Everything seemed all lined up. I've never done one of these but I turned wrenches professionally for a while though it's been a few years. I'm just unsure what way to jump. Suggestions?

 

[Turdle]

It sounds like the shear pin on the drive gear sheared-which has been discussed on the dorman replacements units.
If you can get it out-try using the shear pin from the old unit.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260979&highlight=cam+sensor

notice the thinner material used for rolling the pin on the dorman unit

 

[duke16]

Does the Motorcraft synchronizer, part DA2097 from RockAuto, come with the alignment tool? The Dorman part explicatively state it comes with the tool, but the Motorcraft part doesn't mention it.

 

[maroon95]

Hi, I am new here and really like the site. I have a 95 Limited and am having the CHirp from under the hood. I have read that the 95 4.0 engine has a unique Camshaft Position Sensor. Does anyone know if that is correct and if so, what part number do I need? I plan on taking a long trip soon and don't want this thing failing on the road! It seems to be worse in the cold weather and goes away when it is above 50 out. Tried to have AutoCLone read the code for me, but their tool gave an error code, so I am going to check my fuses and take it back and see what I find.
Thanks in advance for your help!
-Bill

 

[bigjoej956]

Iv been having the same high pitch squeal noise coming from under my hood. I drove from Seattle to LA I got great gas mileage no problems but a couple days here I started geting the noise. Would I be ok to drive back to Seattle so my mechanic could take a look or do I have to get it taken care of here? Its a 2000 Ford Explorer V6

 

[Kamaaina]

Need a confirmation

Yup, my '96 4.0 OHV has the hi-pitched squeal from the CMP. I somehow managed to loosen the two top screws and repositioned just the sensor slightly and the squeal went away. I think something was rubbing inside the sensor. My question is: if I'm going to replace just the sensor portion on top and not pull the whole thing out do I still need to use the synchro tool for alignment? The new sensor should just go in where the old one was (two screws & not adjustable). Just needed the forum's confirmation before I replace it and blow up my engine. I figured now is the time to replace the sensor while the part is still available. Any advice is appreciated and thanks all.

 

[Turdle]

It should be just that easy-however the sensor usually is not the part that is bad it is the spinning part inside which has moved due to a worn bearing. You might be able to just take the sensor off, blow it out with air and lube the sync shaft with some trans fluid thinned with 3 in one oil. Use a syringe to get the oil right on the shaft where it will flow down to the Babbitt bearings. You want to let a few applications soak down overnight, wipe up excess and stick the cap back on. If the sensor does not work you'll get a check engine light for sure.

The risk here is the inner shaft. If it locks up the oil pump will not be driven. It is really best to replace the entire unit with a ford OEM part as the inexpensive ones have caused issues. If I "had" to use the cheaper part I would still drive the shear pin out of the old unit and replace the new unit's pin with it. I would also soak the new part (without the cap) in marvel oil or trans fluid overnight before installing, but that is just me.

 

[Kamaaina]

Thanks "Turdle" for the reply. Yes, it would be a good idea to lube the housing/shaft before changing the sensor but that's easier said than done. I can barely see the sensor much less get some lube down there. But I'll give it a shot and see what happens. Thanks again.

 

[95Limited4x4]

94-95 Explorer - Part # A1-Cardone # 30S2605 (or # 30-S2605)

Hi, I am new here and really like the site. I have a 95 Limited and am having the CHirp from under the hood. I have read that the 95 4.0 engine has a unique Camshaft Position Sensor. Does anyone know if that is correct and if so, what part number do I need? I plan on taking a long trip soon and don't want this thing failing on the road! It seems to be worse in the cold weather and goes away when it is above 50 out. Tried to have AutoCLone read the code for me, but their tool gave an error code, so I am going to check my fuses and take it back and see what I find.
Thanks in advance for your help!
-Bill

Bill,

I just did mine in my limited 95 about 6 months ago or so. It was chirping as if I had a nest of baby chicks living on my engine block.

It's true, ours is unique to 94-95 Explorers ( as well as some 95 Aerostar & Ranger) yrs. 4.0 Liter (5.0 wasn't available in these yrs)

It's a pain to change since it's located dead center in the back of the engine near the firewall down about 8" inches or so. The easiest way to replace it is take your hood completely off your vehicle which I did. There's also no special tool needed to align ours, instead there's a glass see through window which you have to use to align it. Depending how bad your electrical connection is you may need to rewire it.

As far as which one you need. I'm 100% sure without any doubt that you'll need to purchase a re-manufactured one from A1-Cardone # 30S2605 (or 30-S2605) since they seem to be the only company that re-manufactures them.

If you purchase it locally at an auto parts store they are sometimes repackaged under different part #'s. Just have the counter guy cross reference #30S2605 (or 30-S2605) and you should be fine depending on how competent the parts counter guy is.

Cross Reference #'s :
Motorcraft OE Part # F3TZ 12K073-A = Cardone # 30S2605 (or # 30-S2605)
Mazda Part # ZZM32035Y = Cardone # 30S2605 (or # 30-S2605)
Bosch Part # 0232101012 = Cardone # 30S2605 (or # 30-S2605)

http://c2c.activant.com/ctoc/index.jsp?ID=eGA1KJhwDA0dBFR0HbDhEf2RGG1R0S1cJNHNVSQRI

http://cds.activant.com/C2C/C01/28/292/747453244.pdf

Here's a quick Google link for reference :
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Cardone+30S2605

Pic's links: After clicking on the links below click on the image to enlarge to view clearly.
http://claspics.com/816/816071/1313187033-291.jpg

http://claspics.com/568/816071/1313187194-247.jpg

http://claspics.com/436/816071/1313186563-469.jpg


Listed under :
1995
Ford
Explorer
4.0L 245 cubic inch V6 MFI (X) OHV
Ignition (sometimes sub-category - Electrical Ignition)
Camshaft Synchronizer (also referred to as a 'Crank Angle Sensor')

Let us all know how everything turns out.

 

[Kamaaina]

Just an "Update"...

Here's what I did as an experiment. I removed the [3] left spark plug cables from the coil pack and moved aside. Using a 7/32" nut-driver (socket w/ extension will do) I removed the [2] sensor screws and moved sensor aside. I got a 3/16" wooden dowel from the hardware store and cut [2] pieces about 10" long and shaped one end of each down to a long point. With a mirror I managed to plug the sensor screw holes in the housing with the "pointed" dowels and gave them a little twist to "thread" them in tight. I then filled-up the housing with some engine oil, up to the point where it's just about to flow out the notch on the rear side. I let it sit overnight for the oil to work itself down the housing. This morning I pulled out the dowels and reinstalled the sensor and other stuff. Didn't wipe up any oil in the housing as the sensor portion is a sealed unit so no harm. Started up the Explorer and no chirping at all. Drove it a while and came home and still no chirping. We'll see how long this lasts and if the chirping comes back I'll post again. But as of today, I am a very happy "chirpless" person. One more thing....much thanks to "Turdle" for giving me the idea!

 

[Kamaaina]

Update to the update...

Since I did the "oil thing" to the CMP I have made nine cold starts and there is no chirping. Maybe my imagination but motor seems to idle smoother, maybe CMP was shuttering without the oil & sending erratic signals to the PCM. If anything changes I'll follow with an "Update to the update to the update".