Hid light installation

[celly]

Cobra and I both have those headlights so we're basing our comments on actual experience. Once you get around the fact they look different than OEM, you'll love them. OEM and the aftermarket diamond cut headlights look fine, but they really don't manage HID beams well. I've now used three different HID setups with normal headlights (one single beam and two different bi-xenons) and they ALL sucked. Sure, the light was better but the beam pattern was so blotchy and inconsistent, I hated it over time. The advice to aim them low is pretty simplistic too (I've never had to aim them right down and I find the lighting lousy if I do). I find it's not just about aiming them down a bit, but to the right a bit as well. I always took a lot of time out on a dark country road and did my aiming. Not just in checking out the beam pattern, but I'd walk down the road a bit and see what the beam looked like from afar, simulating what I'd look like to another driver.

The biggest test is whether you get flashed or not. If you get flashed more than once or twice in the city in a month, they're too bright. If you get flashed about the same on the highway, same thing.

Those projector housings are great. I just did a 5,000 mile road trip last month and did a lot of driving at night. I didn't get flashed once. I don't remember the last time I got flashed actually with these projectors. It's a pretty rare occurence.

Keep in mind that ALL the Lexus, BMW, Mercedes etc you see out there use 4300K bulbs. People buy the "blue" lights because those OEM kits look blue, but that's just how the projectors make them look to oncoming traffic. My projector headlights use a HID lowbeam and a halogen highbeam. When you switch between the two, you clearly see that HIDs are much whiter than halogen, hands down. My son actually calls my HIDs blue, and the highbeams yellow when I turn them on for him in the garage. Keep in mind that blue lighting can actually hinder you in rainy/overcast conditions. I think they call it "blue fade".

I wouldn't go over 6000K personally. When people start looking at those really colourful lights, they're really doing it for vanity purposes, because they "look cool" to others. I've always been a function over form modder so I've always stuck with 4300K. The guy I buy my kits from in town actually charges a premium for blue bulbs because he knows the ricer community loves them and they will pay extra. His costs are identical so he makes better margin on the blue bulbs. I knew of another guy who did the same thing.

As far as the legalities go, I'm willing to risk it. I just wanted to point out that they're not legal. Brian was quick to say they he "didn't believe them to be illegal because everyone else has them". I do know of communities where cops use the HID excuse to pull people over. It happens here in Calgary (a city of 1 million). I got nailed by the tinting police two summers ago and my tint is far from dark. The cop had "nothing better to do".

You are buying at a good time because kits of come down in price a LOT from when I paid $400 for my first single beam kit (Philips bulbs). Definitely stay away from bi-xenon. Complete gimmick. All they do is move the already blotchy light from one part of the road to another. Single beams are all you'l need. You won't even miss high beams.

One thing to consider if you are planning on going with the projector housings is that while they plug right into your stock 9007 harness, the bulbs themselves are H1. If you're getting a HID kit to put into your existing reflector housings, the bulbs are 9007. So you will need new capsules if you go to the projectors later. Also consider a wiring harness to wire up your HIDs. I had issues wiring up my newest kit right up to my stock harness, but that was because I have the "autolamp" feature. Some times the lights wouldn't come on automatically. This condition can be hard on the ballasts.

You can look around hidplanet.com for all things HID, but those guys over there HATE HID kits. That being said, it is possible to get some info over there on what to buy and what not to. The quality of these things varies wildly.

Have fun! I'm a big fan of HID at the end of the day. I felt blind at night when forced to go back to halogen for a few weeks recently and couldn't wait to get back to HID.

 

[brotherx]

Hmm.. good to know that 4,300k is what the others use stock.. Thats all i wanted. I dont want those lights that look any more blue than the standard ones that the luxury autos use. I hate those lights that are obviously blue to get attention, they look cheesy.

Yeah, thats actually exactly what my criteria was going to be. Good idea for aiming the lights to.

How hard is it to install the capsules? Are they expensive by themselves if i can even get them that way? I have that autolamp feature too, is it alot harder to wire up the hids if i have that? I am assuming the wiring harness will pretty much just make it easier and more "clean" right?

I also have a question about those autolamps, they just turn on when its dark out if i keep the knob on the circle right? Do you know if they sense rain too?

I definitely agree with you on the whole "feeling blind" thing! I used my friends dads, and when i went back to mine i felt the same way.. btw, what do you guys think of using sylvania silverstars for the fog lights, and possibly even for a temporary fix for the regular lights too, atleast until i get save up for the whole hid kit including the housing.. youre saying its gonna run me around $400 total right? They seem like a fairly affordable way to get alot better lighting.

Thanks again yall!

 

[celly]

Hmm.. good to know that 4,300k is what the others use stock.. Thats all i wanted. I dont want those lights that look any more blue than the standard ones that the luxury autos use. I hate those lights that are obviously blue to get attention, they look cheesy.

Amen brotha. Yup, All the high end vehicles that are spec’d with HID use 4300K bulbs. You get the most useful light with 4300K. Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. You get more added colour, but less useful light (lumens) when you go with higher K ratings. People opting for anything higher than 6000K are doing it for the look. I've seen some really nice 6000K installs that don't look overly blue at all. I personally call anything over 6000K poseur lights. They're doing it to be noticed. No wonder they seem so popular in the ricer community. That whole movement is all about "the look". There is this guy up the street with black Escalade. Looks bone stock except for the pinkish HID kit he has in there. 12,000K is my guess. Looks totally stupid. My wife doesn't notice mods very often, but she always comments how horrible the lights look. Yeah, he's being noticed alright.

How hard is it to install the capsules? Are they expensive by themselves if i can even get them that way? I have that autolamp feature too, is it alot harder to wire up the hids if i have that? I am assuming the wiring harness will pretty much just make it easier and more "clean" right?

Not hard at all. 9007 spec is what you use now. They pretty much just slot into the OEM space. If you opt for the projector headlights, the H1 bulbs/capsules take a little patience to install. You won’t think they should fit, but they do. HID bulbs have come down in price immensely, but be wary. You can get what you pay for.

Wiring harnesses are hardwired to your battery and draw the power from there instead of your system. Lot less stress on the HID ballasts this way.

I also have a question about those autolamps, they just turn on when its dark out if i keep the knob on the circle right? Do you know if they sense rain too?

I’m not sure how they work in the ’95. On the ’99 (mine) there is a little slider under your rearview that controls whether it’s on or off, and how long you want to delay to take effect (i.e. how long the lights turn off after you leave the truck). Mine don’t sense moisture or anything like that.

I definitely agree with you on the whole "feeling blind" thing! I used my friends dads, and when i went back to mine i felt the same way.. btw, what do you guys think of using sylvania silverstars for the fog lights, and possibly even for a temporary fix for the regular lights too, atleast until i get save up for the whole hid kit including the housing.. youre saying its gonna run me around $400 total right? They seem like a fairly affordable way to get alot better lighting.

I think Silverstars are fine (I’ve used both Sylvania and Osram versions in fogs and Sylvania for headlights). Kind of pricey for the output you get. Those bulbs that inh referenced in his reply to you are supposed to be the best 9007 bulbs available (your headlights). Not sure if they’re available for your fogs.

If you go projectors, the housings are going for $200 now. I think they charge another $75 or so for HIDs. So you’re in business for a lot less than $400.

 

[ShadowRaven]

I dunno, I've argued this topic with many people, and everyone who has posted here is right in their own way. I got around my 4300k's blinding everyone by aiming them downward and using VHT Niteshade on them, which dulled them to a little brighter than stock bulbs. Everyone says I'm just band-aiding it, which I am, but at the same time, no one flashes me anymore, so theres not really an issue with them being ridiculous, ya know? Cops can pull you over for anything they want nowadays, so theres just about no reason to even worrying about the legality of it, you get hit with a fine, too bad, it's happened to me for over 3 instances, so it's just the price you pay to stand out. Also, I know a lot of people are like me and want to put money into their vehicles, but not spend an outrageous amount (ie $120 HID Kit vs $800 Projectors), so they go the cheaper route, and, as long as theyre not stupid about it, then everything works out in the end. My final thing is even if people have their brights on at night coming towards you, it's not even that bright, so I don't really understand why people complain about it. Be cool and wear shades at night But in all seriousness, it boils down to a lot of varying factors as to the whole issue, so it ends up being personal opinion that wins the battle.

 

[Cobraguy]

Be sure and take note of what Celly says about using relays to power your ballasts. That alone is a huge improvement. I ran a 10 gauge wire from the mega fuse to a junction block on the radiator support. Then I ran 14 gauge leads to 4 relays...one for each headlight bulb. Now the only thing my factory harness does is turn on a relay...about 175 milliamps...instead of powering the light itself. You know, I really hate to say this, but if you go look at about 1988 to 2001 Chevy/GMC pickups, there is a fuel pump relay and junction block on passenger side of the firewall. Many times, there will be more than one relay. These are outstanding quality, sealed, low draw relays. There is usually a bracket to mount them with. Get a couple of the junction blocks ( I used one for all the grounds too and tied it directly to the aux lead on the battery cable.) Get four of the relays (you could use just two and use one each for low beam and high beam if you want...but I used four) There is also a sealed fuse holder(s) in the same location. Get that too...one for each relay you plan on using. Be sure and get the connectors and a few inches of the harness. I actually pulled all the pins from the connectors and resoldered new, heavier wires to new pins. You can do this too. The new pins are about a buck each at NAPA (A HUGE rip off) or you can order them online for about a nickel each. When you are done, you will have an excellent electrical system for your lights that should serve you well for years to come.

By the way, I mounted everything on the radiator support behind the grill...except for the ground junction which I mounted next to the battery on the radiator support. Everything fits if you are careful and leaves room for maintenance of the relays or fuses. I also mounted my ballasts there. It is a very clean installation. I pulled the grill and headlight panel just so I would have the room to work. I recommend doing that as it's a LOT easier that way. You can trial fit the panels as you go to make sure everything fits. You can also trim the headlight panel on a bench to fit your new housings if necessary and that is a lot easier to do and check.

One last thing. Every connection I made...every harness I built...every singe one...I used a bare crimp connector, then soldered it as well. Then covered in shrink wrap for a totally weatherproof connection. Don't use a soldering iron...use a soldering torch. That really is a better way in my opinion. Less chance of a cold solder joint and a lot less heat goes up the wire. Once you get the hang of it, it really doesn't take that much longer to do. But it ensures a trouble free connection. Remember, these connections are subject to the elements.

 

[hunterdan]

X's 2 on these bulbs. Very bright, and rather white for being halogen and no coating on the bulbs. Add an upgraded harness and they are even better.

Dan

http://www.suvlights.com/product_info.php?products_id=100

High quality extra bright fully legal white halogen light. I got a set and you wouldn't believe the improvement these make.

just sayin...

 

[adidas0068]

To put true HID's into a stock housing is going to kill someone. They scatter light all over the place and will blind oncoming traffic. That is why you see HID's in projectors. They provide the proper cutoff.

I'm not one to start any fights, but "back in the day", we would take HID set-ups out of Lincoln Mark VIII's and put them into our mini trucks. Lincoln Mark VIII's don't have projector headlights. The bulb was also a dealer only part, and ran $800 each bulb, and it was always on back order. It was hard to find Lincoln Mark VIII's in the junkyard with good bulbs.

I will admit that a projector gives you a cleaner look when others look at your HID's (I have had HID's in projectors and stock housings), but it doesn't give you a better overall light view on the road. And all headlights (and fog lights) should be properly aimed whether they have halogen or HID bulbs installed. If the light blinds others, it is not properly aimed. BTW, a properly aimed housing will not blind people whether it has halogen or HID bulbs.

People opting for anything higher than 6000K are doing it for the look. I've seen some really nice 6000K installs that don't look overly blue at all. I personally call anything over 6000K poseur lights.

I like looks along with functuality, and I use 8000k bulbs. They are still stronger than stock halogens, and to say I am doing it only for the look is completely idiotic. I assume you have never seen 8000k bulbs in person, becasue they are not blue (like pictures you see on the internet). They have a blue tint when they are powering on, but once they are fully on, they have a slight blue/white tint like a hyper bulb, and actually look exactly like a PIAA Xtreme Super White halogen bulb, which are DOT compliant (I have a set of these $100 PIAA bulbs as well).

Saying a color you don't like is a "poseur" (I assume you mean poser) color is like saying any vehicle color that is not black or white is a poser color. The reason we modify our vehicles is to be different than eveyone else. If everyone had 4300k projector HID headlights, people would be changing them out to something else just to be different. Don't hate on people because they like different things then you do.


Now on to the thread question. You can get quality HIDs from http://www.buyhidkits.com which are normally $100, but are on sale for $80, along with a relay wiring harness for $14, and a lifetime warranty for an additional $14. You may have to extend the bulb power wires, or you can buy a wiring harness from http://www.mobilehid.com/products.htm#hidbulbs (look at the bottom of the page) which gives a good quality harness with long wires. I have systems from both places, and the bulb quality is the same... MobileHID has better wiring, but costs a whole lot more. The Bi-Xenon bulb required for Explorers to keep Hi and Low beam are the same price at BuyHIDKits.com (cost more at MobileHID.com) and will come with four ballasts instead of two ballasts.

My Ranger has HID kits from MobileHID.com on both the headlights and fog lights, and my Explorer has HID kits from BuyHIDKits.com on both the headlights and fog lights. I have had no problems with either set (Explorer fog lights just got installed today).

 

[Cobraguy]

Adidas, I can't tell you how misinformed much of your post is. Again, there are a couple of outstanding sites (this one included) that deal with HID's and the proper way to retrofit, the proper use of color charts, and the legalities. Why none of us here would ever want to deny you the chance to be different, we do want to promote proper methods and procedures. Installing HID bulbs into a stock Explorer housing is wrong, dangerous, (and illegal.)

 

[adidas0068]

Adidas, I can't tell you how misinformed much of your post is. Again, there are a couple of outstanding sites (this one included) that deal with HID's and the proper way to retrofit, the proper use of color charts, and the legalities. Why none of us here would ever want to deny you the chance to be different, we do want to promote proper methods and procedures.

Retrofitting HIDs does not make them legal. I never said HIDs were legal, and in fact, HIDs are illegal, no matter what kind of housing you put them in. Lincoln Mark VIII's did not use projector headlights, and neither do Mustangs ('08-present). Both of these models use an HID housing, but not a projector housing. Using a projector housing does not make an HID system legal. I think you may be misinformed.

The reason HID kits are not legal no matter what housing they are in is because they do not have FMVSS certification and are not DOT compliant. You can put an OEM HID system in your non-HID system (GT500 Mustang to V6 Mustang, for example), and be fine, because the system is FMVSS certified and DOT compliant, but you can not put an OEM Mustang HID system into an Explorer, because once the headlight housing is modified, it is no longer DOT compliant.

The proper method and procedure to install HID bulbs (no matter what housing they are in), is to use proper gauge wiring and relays. Installing HIDs into a stock housing is no more improper than installing clear corner lenses or "smoking" your tail lights. All are illegal, but not improper.

Installing HID bulbs into a stock Explorer housing is wrong, dangerous, (and illegal.)

Wrong? Not true. HID bulbs use less wattage and run cooler than halogen bulbs. The light is scattered compared to an HID housing or projector housing, but if properly aimed (not blinding), this effects you, not others.

Dangerous? If not properly installed, then yes, it can be dangerous. That is the reason to use the proper relays and correct gauge wire. If you install an aftermarket radio incorrectly, than can be dangerous as well.

Illegal? Yes, no matter what housing they are in. Because all HID kits do not have FMVSS certification and are not DOT compliant, they are considered "Off-Road Use Only". There are halogen bulbs that are this way (no FMVSS certification or DOT compliance) , and are considered the same, Off-Road Use Only.

the proper use of color charts

What do you mean by "proper use". I know how a color chart works. 1000K is red, 4600K is white, 10,000K is blue, 30,000K is pink. When dealing with videography, the relevant temperature range is 2,000K to 8,000K. My 8,000K HID kit is right in the correct Kelvin range. Not only are 10,000K, 12,000K and 30,000K HID bulbs more noticeable, but they still give off more lumen's (brightness) than a stock halogen bulb, so to say that using anything higher than a 6,000K bulb is a waste is not true and also misinformed. The main purpose of using an HID bulb is for a brighter light and longevity, both of which a 30,000K HID bulb will give you, along with being noticed and a ticket in waiting.