How best to identify and deal with worn out wheel bearings

[roveer]

I've got a 2006 eddie bauer with 298k miles. It's got a bunch of problems that I'm tackling one by one. Assuming I get the engine/trans sorted I will eventually get to wheel bearings. The truck makes a pretty loud whine when going at speed and I'm sure it's wheel bearings. The front's I can deal with I'll just replace the entire assembly. The rears are pressed in bearings.

So my questions are as follows:

How best do I determine what bearings are bad? I notice that it's not easy to tell when driving as it's not coming from one place. Of course that could mean they are all gone at this point. Do front's go sooner than rears or vis a versa? Spin each tire and listen for noise/movement?

Is it possible to do the rears with one of those press kits with all the disks? I could take the assemblies to my mechanic assuming he has a press and have him do the press work, but I'd rather do myself if possible. Is it something that could be done DIY? I did watch a video where an actual mechanic spent most of a day getting one bearing out and had to use a torch to boot. That was pretty bad.

Any other wisdom is appreciated.

Roveer

 

[Larryjb]

As you steer to the right or left you should hear the whine get louder or quieter. Steering to the right puts the weight on the left and visa versa. Therefore, if it gets louder as you steer to the right, the failed bearing is on the left.

Identifying front verses rear is tough.

I was not able to tell by spinning the wheel by hand. I just couldn't feel the difference. The wheel wouldn't wiggle or anything.

You could try the front first knowing it will eventually go anyway. If the sound presists, do the rear. So do the rear, you may wish to pull a hub from a wrecker and have a shop press the bearing for you. Then you can swap the hub easily on your own time.

 

[Larryjb]

BTW, I managed to do it with the tool you mentioned using a high torque impact and a sledge. It's up to you if want to spend money on those tools knowing it might not work.

 

[roveer]

As you steer to the right or left you should hear the whine get louder or quieter. Steering to the right puts the weight on the left and visa versa. Therefore, if it gets louder as you steer to the right, the failed bearing is on the left.

Identifying front verses rear is tough.

I was not able to tell by spinning the wheel by hand. I just couldn't feel the difference. The wheel wouldn't wiggle or anything.

You could try the front first knowing it will eventually go anyway. If the sound presists, do the rear. So do the rear, you may wish to pull a hub from a wrecker and have a shop press the bearing for you. Then you can swap the hub easily on your own time.

I tried the turning left/right thing and couldn't hear any difference. I'll try it again and see. Your second point about doing front first what exactly what I was thinking but those full hub replacements are not cheap. I think I'll do some more "listening" and see what I can discover. I did see a guy put a car up on a lift with the wheels spinning (seems very dangerous), and then went poking around each wheel with a stethoscope. Doesn't seem like something I could/would do.

I might go the junkyard route if I can find two rear assemblies. Since the bearing and hub aren't too expensive for the rear that would allow me to have the parts all ready to go and then just throw them on (assuming I don't run into all kinds of rusted bolts getting the assembly off.

Thanks for your input. I'll report back if/when I move forward.

Roveer

 

[roveer]

BTW, I managed to do it with the tool you mentioned using a high torque impact and a sledge. It's up to you if want to spend money on those tools knowing it might not work.

I just ordered a high torque impact since I am now getting into lots of rusted stuff on a number of vehicles I'm working on, so it would just be the cost of the bearing tool, 55 bucks on amazon. mechanic with a press will likely be my fallback.

Thanks for your input. I'll report back once I've moved forward.

Roveer

 

[thebrakeman]

For the fronts, moving a lifted wheel left/right isn't definitive, because of the steering. Grab and rock it top-to-bottom. Any you should be feeling for play, not just listening. If you feel any play at all, change the fronts. Like you said, those are hub/bearing units, and relatively easy compared to the rears. Once you know the fronts are OK, see if the noise went away or changed while driving. Veer side to side to see if loading/unloading has an effect. Then lift rear wheels, and rock top-to-bottom or left-to-right for play.

 

[Larryjb]

brakeman,

My wheels had absolutely no difference in wiggle top to bottom. The good one felt the same as the bad one. I've seen those videos, and I guess my bearings were going bad, but not collapsed enough to present any play top to bottom. The only way I was able to figure out front vs. rear was that the rear right had already been replaced by the previous owner, but the whine got louder when steering to the left indicating that a right side bearing had failed. Other than that, I could only guess.

Perhaps an experienced mechanic might have been able to feel a difference, but I was left with guessing.

 

[thebrakeman]

I think you are right...you get some noise before the physical symptoms. From the description, I'd thought that this had been going on for some time.

 

[07EddyB]

Do you know if any of the bearings have ever been replaced before? I would think with that kind of mileage that they would have fallen off by now if they hadn't. The question is - how long ago? You are approaching 300K - I would put the average bearing life (if you are lucky) at about 90K. If they were replaced at 90K - then around 180K - then they are currently overdue on all four.

 

[roveer]

Do you know if any of the bearings have ever been replaced before? I would think with that kind of mileage that they would have fallen off by now if they hadn't. The question is - how long ago? You are approaching 300K - I would put the average bearing life (if you are lucky) at about 90K. If they were replaced at 90K - then around 180K - then they are currently overdue on all four.

I'm the only owner. No bearings have ever been changed. Based on your post it is amazing that this car is still on the road. I'm guessing the suggestion would be to change all 4 bearings? I'm willing to do it. I'm going to try and get another 50k out of this vehicle or possibly 100k. body is in decent shape for it's age. Garage kept.

I just changed the spark plugs this weekend. As far as I can remember, this is only the 2nd set. I was dreading this based on the broken plug problem and was never sure if they original plugs were ever changed. I guess they were. I got all 8 out without any breakage. I had a lisle tool ready to go.

I've got a few other problems I want to sort out. The plug change brought back a lot of power to the engine. I seafoamed (gas, oil & intake spray) to try and clean things up. I'm going to make a separate post about timing chain and guides. As far as I can remember, never changed.

Roveer

 

[michael loibl]

My 2006 has about 160,000 miles on it now both of my fronts needed replacement due to noise between 115,000 and 130,000. My driver rear got replaced in 2018 at about 140,000. My passenger rear is still original, but I’m starting to hear a little noise, and assume it’s from that corner.

For the rears, I had a friend drive and I crawled into the back with all seats folded down and put my ear against the plastic panel over the tires. There was a lot more noise when against the driver side, so that was the side I replaced

 

[Larryjb]

Okay, if you spend all your time figuring out what bearing went, within months the other bearing will likely go anyway. Yeah, I'd replace both fronts now. It's easy enough to do. Then you can figure out how to approach the rear ones.

 

[roveer]

Okay, if you spend all your time figuring out what bearing went, within months the other bearing will likely go anyway. Yeah, I'd replace both fronts now. It's easy enough to do. Then you can figure out how to approach the rear ones.

Yup. That's exactly what I'm doing. My wife's GMC Yukon had a bad bearing and I told the mechanic to replace both. He fought me tooth and nail. My feeling was when one goes, the other isn't too far behind. Since I'm doing the work myself I don't mind doing both. Like you said, I'll sort out the rears after I've done the front. I believe my neighbor has a bearing press so I guess it's time to start sucking up.

I'll report back once I've done the fronts.

Roveer

 

[roveer]

Update:

I did the fronts over the past week. I've still got all the bearing noise I had originally so It's the rears. I've ordered them and I'll probably pull the knuckles and take them to a shop to do the press work. I'll report back on outcome.

Roveer

 

[Larryjb]

Update:

I did the fronts over the past week. I've still got all the bearing noise I had originally so It's the rears. I've ordered them and I'll probably pull the knuckles and take them to a shop to do the press work. I'll report back on outcome.

Roveer

Hopefully you'll have better luck than me trying to find a shop to press a bearing. All shops were busy, one even told me to make an appointment. I couldn't just leave it there a couple of days. That's when my buddy said we could try it with his bearing puller, high torque impact, and a sledge. It worked. But if you can find a shop willing to do it, that would be cheaper than getting the tools.

 

[sgjii]

I did the rears myself at 120K on an 08 Sport Trac. One of the harder projects in recent memory. The bearing is set up the same as my old VW/Audi front press ins from the 80s. I thought "nothing but a thing", I have done several.

Some people will probably tell me I cheaped out on parts, but I have had good luck with Detroit Axle brand bearings. I am running several, including all 4 on the Sport Trac about 30K on them so far and no complaints. I got the rears with the hub flange and glad I did. Not much more money and made for a cleaner re-assembly and less fear of damaging something.

I removed the knuckles and used a 20Ton H Frame press. Driver's side moved hard but once it started it came apart reasonably. The Passenger side was a complete *******. I couldn't get it move with the 20ton. I tried to find a shop to press it and the same response as others, "we will get you an appointment on the second Tuesday on next week." I had to buy gas for my torch set but ultimately, I ended up heating the center of the hub flange, where it is pressed into the bearing, from the back side, to a red glow with an oxy/acetylene torch and then shocked it with cold water. Once cool enough to handle I went back to the press and it came apart like butter.

If I had it to do over, I would start with heat & shock before pressing.

One last thought, in the H Frame, it was very tricky to not damage the brake backing plate in this process. Not sure about the Hub Shark tool method, but you need to be cautious of the backing plate. If the back plates are badly rusty/crusty, I would just consider replacing them as part of the job.

Best of luck and let us know how it goes.

 

[roveer]

So an update...

I ordered new bearings and hubs for the rears and got a wheel bearing removal kit from Harbor Freight. Once I had everything I set out to pull the driver side knuckle. It took almost an entire day (more like 5-6 hours) because I was being extremely cautious and had to fight with a lot of rust and bolts that wouldn't come lose. In the end I was successful. The next day I set out to remove the hub and bearing from the knuckle. The hub came out without too much trouble. It did hold on to part of the bearing, but that's to be expected. Remember, this vehicle is at 299k miles. I then started pulling the bearing and it wouldn't budge. The hardest part was finding something to hold the knuckle so I could tighten the bearing puller. I made a jig that allowed me to do that. After hours of tightening and hammering it really wasn't moving. I conceded that I would have to get help and stopped for the day. The next day I decided to give it another try, this time with a little heat on the knuckle. This time I started to get some movement. After a few hours, it was out. I instantly went to pulling in the new bearing that I had in the freezer for a few days. It went in without too much trouble, and then followed up with the hub. A few more hours and the knuckle was back on the truck. Success!

I decided not to put myself through all the trouble and after pulling the knuckle on the other side of the truck (this time took less than 2 hours), took it to my mechanic to do the press work. Well. Guess I should have tried it myself. He called me the next day to tell me he cracked the knuckle in his press. Bit the bullet and ordered a loaded knuckle (which arrived today) and will now re-install. Don't blame mechanic but he didn't know what he was in for.

Update: When I stopped at the mechanic's shop to pick up the new bearing and hub to return, he showed me the cracked knuckle. Can't make this stuff up. He was pressing the bearing into the knuckle not try to press it out. First, he hadn't even removed the hub from the bearing, the snap ring was still in the bearing and he was pushing in the wrong direction. WHAT!!! I decided not to say anything, but WTF! Maybe these guys should watch a YouTube video once in a while. Can't possibly know everything. Guess I should have just done it myself.

Roveer

 

[Blackhawkxx]

[Q I decided not to say anything, but WTF! Maybe these guys should watch a YouTube video once in a while. Can't possibly know everything. Guess I should have just done it myself.

Roveer
[/QUOTE]

Maybe you should have told him of his mistake, if nothing else at least he would have learned something and not damaged others parts in the future.

 

[Itchy33]

So an update...

I ordered new bearings and hubs for the rears and got a wheel bearing removal kit from Harbor Freight. Once I had everything I set out to pull the driver side knuckle. It took almost an entire day (more like 5-6 hours) because I was being extremely cautious and had to fight with a lot of rust and bolts that wouldn't come lose. In the end I was successful. The next day I set out to remove the hub and bearing from the knuckle. The hub came out without too much trouble. It did hold on to part of the bearing, but that's to be expected. Remember, this vehicle is at 299k miles. I then started pulling the bearing and it wouldn't budge. The hardest part was finding something to hold the knuckle so I could tighten the bearing puller. I made a jig that allowed me to do that. After hours of tightening and hammering it really wasn't moving. I conceded that I would have to get help and stopped for the day. The next day I decided to give it another try, this time with a little heat on the knuckle. This time I started to get some movement. After a few hours, it was out. I instantly went to pulling in the new bearing that I had in the freezer for a few days. It went in without too much trouble, and then followed up with the hub. A few more hours and the knuckle was back on the truck. Success!

I decided not to put myself through all the trouble and after pulling the knuckle on the other side of the truck (this time took less than 2 hours), took it to my mechanic to do the press work. Well. Guess I should have tried it myself. He called me the next day to tell me he cracked the knuckle in his press. Bit the bullet and ordered a loaded knuckle (which arrived today) and will now re-install. Don't blame mechanic but he didn't know what he was in for.

Update: When I stopped at the mechanic's shop to pick up the new bearing and hub to return, he showed me the cracked knuckle. Can't make this stuff up. He was pressing the bearing into the knuckle not try to press it out. First, he hadn't even removed the hub from the bearing, the snap ring was still in the bearing and he was pushing in the wrong direction. WHAT!!! I decided not to say anything, but WTF! Maybe these guys should watch a YouTube video once in a while. Can't possibly know everything. Guess I should have just done it myself.

Roveer

Great job! Is the loaded knuckle the Dorman one that Rockauto sells? I might be coming up on needing to do this project and am wondering about the quality of that part. Thanks!

 

[jpooman2516]

Great job! Is the loaded knuckle the Dorman one that Rockauto sells? I might be coming up on needing to do this project and am wondering about the quality of that part. Thanks!

Been following this thread as I need new rear bearings on my 2010 sport Trac. A shop was trying to install a new rear bearing and broke the knuckle in the process. They ended up replacing the broken knuckle with one from a wrecker so I ended up with a different used bearing. Interested in the loaded knuckles as it seems mechanics are having problems with this job. Question is Dorman vs Moog vs Auto Shack. Price range for the loaded rear knuckles is about $500 a sides to under $200. Big difference. Any experience with the Chinese ones?