How to: How To: Replacing Rear Axle Wheel Bearings

[Themightyquinn]

Does anyone know how this would compare to the 8.8 IRS?

 

[BOOMERSOONER63]

I know this is older but I have the same rear end but my axle shaft broke on the outer end where the lugs are and I can't remove it. The c clip is out and everything but I'm stuck and have no clue what to do. There's not enough axle sticking out to pull it. Any ideas? I'm desperate here I need it fixed by noon tomorrow, any ideas are greatly appreciated. I've tried pushing from inside the diff also.

 

[Maniak]

I know this is older but I have the same rear end but my axle shaft broke on the outer end where the lugs are and I can't remove it. The c clip is out and everything but I'm stuck and have no clue what to do. There's not enough axle sticking out to pull it. Any ideas? I'm desperate here I need it fixed by noon tomorrow, any ideas are greatly appreciated. I've tried pushing from inside the diff also.

It is easier than you think.... and you are on the right track.. you have to push it out..

Take the axle out of the other side.. Now take a broom handle and shove it down the axle tube (good side) and push the broken axle out..

~Mark

Edit: You will need to pull the pin too. When you take out the pin retaining bolt I recommend you put in a new one.. They do break if re-used multiple times and are a pain to remove once broken.

 

[BOOMERSOONER63]

I was afraid I was going to have to do that. Which pin are you talking about? Thanks for responding I am pretty frustrated here and can't afford to pay a shop to do it. I'm assuming I will need to replace the other axle shaft seal and bearing as well?

 

[gavin]

I was afraid I was going to have to do that. Which pin are you talking about? Thanks for responding I am pretty frustrated here and can't afford to pay a shop to do it. I'm assuming I will need to replace the other axle shaft seal and bearing as well?

He's talking about the cross-pin.

And you don't have to do the bearing and seal but, since it's already apart, it wouldn't be a bad idea.
Otherwise you'll just have to do it all over again.

 

[BOOMERSOONER63]

OK that's what I thought he meant. Thanks guys, its about to start pouring here so looks like I get to finish tomorrow. Sure am glad I joined the forum, its a wealth of knowledge lol

 

[BOOMERSOONER63]

I'm trying to drill into the old axle to get a better grip on pulling it out. I removed the c clip, the pin and metal rod, so it should be free. Gonna try this route first and will keep you all posted.

 

[BOOMERSOONER63]

Also, the pin bolt looks brand new so I think I am safe there. I've already maxed out my parts budget. So far I've spent just over $350 on the axle, rotor, gear oil, rtv, and the right tools to do the job. My whole family thinks I can't do it so that's my motivation to do it. Lol

 

[gavin]

depending on where it actually broke off, you may just be able to nudge it through the housing with your hand/finger/maybe a screwdriver.
of course if it broke off far enough inside, you'll need to find a way to wedge the shaft back in to the bearing, or just pull the seal and bearing.

Depending on the tools, should have just rented them if you're working on a budget. Schmucks, errrr OReilly's, rented them pretty cheap. CARQUEST also rents tools now too; at least the couple up here I've been to.

 

[BOOMERSOONER63]

I GOT IT OUT!!!! Now how do I press the new lugs into the axle?? I have a c clamp but no access to a press or the funds to have it pressed in. Any ideas?

 

[gavin]

They do make a tool specifically for that... best bet might be to see if you can find a shop that'd be willing to do it for a few bucks.

Similar to this:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22800-W...02497526&sr=8-1&keywords=wheel+stud+installer

There's always a hammer, but definitely not a recommended solution.

C-clamp won't do much good since it's closed-ended.
A balljoint c-clamp type tool may work.

 

[BOOMERSOONER63]

Got a weird noise coming from the rear somewhere. Can't pin point it, I have a 3.73 LSD and used two quarts of mobil 1 synthetic for LSD. Did I use enough? I also tried to pull in the studs using the caliper and wheel as torque and tightened the lugs. Any ideas? Everything I read said 1.5-1.7 QTS. I'm at a loss and angry/frustrated.

 

[gavin]

What kind of "weird noise?"
Need a little more info to attempt the chair-mechanic.

What all work did you do since you had it apart?

 

[BOOMERSOONER63]

I replaced the passenger side rotor, axle shaft, seal, bearing. Everything else went back as it was. It sounds like maybe I don't have enough gear oil in it or the wheel studs on the new axle aren't in all the way. Its driving fine minus that noise but the noise concerned me enough I turned around and came home on my test drive. Question, would running a 235/60 17 on one side and a 245/70/16 cause that noise? Since the spinning radius is different? I'm thinking about buying more gear oil and adding it to see if that eases the problem. I can't describe the noise but I know it can't be good. Maybe its the new studs not completely pulled against the axle?

 

[Maniak]

I replaced the passenger side rotor, axle shaft, seal, bearing. Everything else went back as it was. It sounds like maybe I don't have enough gear oil in it or the wheel studs on the new axle aren't in all the way. Its driving fine minus that noise but the noise concerned me enough I turned around and came home on my test drive. Question, would running a 235/60 17 on one side and a 245/70/16 cause that noise? Since the spinning radius is different? I'm thinking about buying more gear oil and adding it to see if that eases the problem. I can't describe the noise but I know it can't be good. Maybe its the new studs not completely pulled against the axle?

You have a limited slip so it is trying to run the tires at the same speed BUT your tires are about 1.5" apart in height. That is quite a bit which means your clutches are trying to hold but can't because the tires need to spin different speeds..

I'd start with getting the same height tires on the rear axle...

btw.. the here is the math I did to compare the sizes..

235 (width) * .60 (ratio) = 141mm
141mm / 25.4 = 5.55 inches (sidewall height)
5.55" * 2 + 17 (rim size) = 28" tall

~Mark

edit: fixed my math.. it is 1.5" difference in tire sizes, not 2.5 ( I misread 17" rims on both).. Still a big difference though.

 

[gavin]

You have a limited-slip rear diff and running tires of different sizes; that could definitely cause some issues, and very possibly causing the noise.

 

[BOOMERSOONER63]

I'm switching them now, does 2 QTS sound right or should it be more? I do use the search button but hard to find a definitive answer

 

[Maniak]

I'm switching them now, does 2 QTS sound right or should it be more? I do use the search button but hard to find a definitive answer

The solid axle style 8.8 holds 5.5-ish pints which is actually 2.75 quarts so, if all you used was 2 quart bottles then no, you don't have enough, especially since it is hard to really get those bottles empty..

Normally you just put it in the fill hole until it starts to come out of the fill hole..

I am assuming the stock diff cover is still on there.

~Mark

 

[BOOMERSOONER63]

I had no trouble getting all the oil out of the bottles. I will get another bottle and switch the wheel in the morning. I'm beat tired. Thanks for all the help guys

 

[BOOMERSOONER63]

Still have the noise though its less apparent now that the rear wheels match. I'm getting more diff fluid tomorrow. The back break is now occasionally sticking, I replaced the passenger rotor but not pads(small budget) I'm wondering if that will pass or what. I know the caliper slides freely. I didn't use the new bearing as the old one looked fine, probably a mistake. I'm learning here, cold the lack of fluid make that noise? It sounds like under the rear. I'm scared something else is wrong here. I don't know of anyone who live in Oklahoma...Oklahoma city for that fact. Any ideas? Maybe the stick is the new rotor seating on the pads?