How can you tell if the 4 X 4 is working

[jgarcea]

1995 Explorer Eddie Bauer

 

[caldi55]

first thing you want to do is pick up an adaquate supercharger along with some nitrous. after you install those find some 20,000lb straps. strap the rear of the frame to a secure grounding. from then place the truck in 4x4 and stomp on the gas if the fron and rear tires spin you know its working. or you could just put your ex on a lift and see if they all spin, you know but hey its up to you.

 

[Turdle]

first thing you want to do is pick up an adaquate supercharger along with some nitrous. after you install those find some 20,000lb straps. strap the rear of the frame to a secure grounding. from then place the truck in 4x4 and stomp on the gas if the fron and rear tires spin you know its working. or you could just put your ex on a lift and see if they all spin, you know but hey its up to you.

thers got to be a better way
maybe find some slush, hang head out window, give it hell and if your face gets wet it works

 

[vervepipes]

Try a wet feild or stretch of grass and floor it, ask somebody to watch from outside to see if the front is engaging. Thats what we did when my friend's ZR2's 4x4 was in question.

 

[mrdakota]

Try a wet feild or stretch of grass and floor it, ask somebody to watch from outside to see if the front is engaging. Thats what we did when my friend's ZR2's 4x4 was in question.

Well did it work?

 

[vervepipes]

The test worked, the 4x4 didnt, the control cable had seized

 

[Blee1099]

Its probably the shift motor. Try removing the electrical contacts and try cleaning them up.

 

[jgarcea]

Well, I tried flooring it while a buddy stood and watched and the front tires did not spin. Now what?

 

[Hartman]

i'm gonna go out on a limb and say your 4WD doesn't work.

 

[jgarcea]

I don't think you're the only one out there on that limb. However, I can tell you the 4x4 lights work fine.

 

[Hartman]

your shift motor is probably sticking. short term you can tap it with a hammer, long term you'll want to clean it or buy a new one.

 

[gijoecam]

First of all, there's nothing wrong with the motor. On a second gen, the motor is only used to shift from 4auto/high to 4 low. Engaging of high is only a matter of energizing the transfer case clutch in the transfer

The first thing I would look at in a '95 is whether or not the front driveshaft is engaging. To do that, put the truck in the air on jack stands, start it up, select 4auto, then get out and see if the front driveshaft is turning like it should. If so, we can eliminate the transfer case as the problem. If the front d/s does NOT turn, the problem is in the transfer case, or in the wiring going to it (specifically the brown wire somewhere between the TCS relay and the transfer case clutch coil.

Now, assuming the driveshaft turns, on a '95, I'd look at the center-axle disconnect. There is a vacuum solenoid that engages/disengages the front passenger side axle to and from the differential. The lines can crack and leak, the actuator can freeze and/or break, and the and the solenoid can fail to switch when it should, not applying vacuum. This is IMHO the most common problem with the '95 and 96 systems. (The '97-03 F-series have a similar problem with their front axles as they use a similar setup on the front axle) To fix it, you need to start at the solenoid and see if it's changing state, check the vacuum lines for leaks, and check to see if the actuator is moving in the diff.

Hope that helps! Let us know what you find.

-Joe

 

[RustyRelic]

Joe, thanks for this description. I am trying to determine where my defect is on '95 Explorer.

The 4wd and 4wd low lights flash when starting, and also display correctly when the selector knob is switched among the three settings.

I do not get 4wd kicking in when set in 4wd (auto) position, and do not get 4wd when in 4wd low position.

The dealer told me I need a new Front Differential Vacuum Motor part F57Z-4A113-AA, which is no longer manufactured and Ford is out of stock.

From your description I wonder if that is actually the issue. You say that the motor is used to switch to 4wd low only. That sounds right to me- back when it worked, when switching in and out of 4wd low there was a pause and then an audible "clunk" as it moved something. But when in 4wd (high/auto), the engagement/disengagement of 4wd was smooth - I could gun it on an icy hill and the front would engage almost instantaneously, before any rear-end fishtailing, and it would disengage smoothly when no longer needed. I have not tried it myself on a rack but the dealership did and confirmed it was not working. However, they told me I need the vacuum motor. Now that does not sound right; from your description if i DID find that part, it would still not address energizing the transfer case clutch in the transfer case.

Comments/suggestions?
Don

First of all, there's nothing wrong with the motor. On a second gen, the motor is only used to shift from 4auto/high to 4 low. Engaging of high is only a matter of energizing the transfer case clutch in the transfer

The first thing I would look at in a '95 is whether or not the front driveshaft is engaging. To do that, put the truck in the air on jack stands, start it up, select 4auto, then get out and see if the front driveshaft is turning like it should. If so, we can eliminate the transfer case as the problem. If the front d/s does NOT turn, the problem is in the transfer case, or in the wiring going to it (specifically the brown wire somewhere between the TCS relay and the transfer case clutch coil.

Now, assuming the driveshaft turns, on a '95, I'd look at the center-axle disconnect. There is a vacuum solenoid that engages/disengages the front passenger side axle to and from the differential. The lines can crack and leak, the actuator can freeze and/or break, and the and the solenoid can fail to switch when it should, not applying vacuum. This is IMHO the most common problem with the '95 and 96 systems. (The '97-03 F-series have a similar problem with their front axles as they use a similar setup on the front axle) To fix it, you need to start at the solenoid and see if it's changing state, check the vacuum lines for leaks, and check to see if the actuator is moving in the diff.

Hope that helps! Let us know what you find.

-Joe

 

[my98nnj]

The dealer told me I need a new Front Differential Vacuum Motor part F57Z-4A113-AA, which is no longer manufactured and Ford is out of stock.
Comments/suggestions?
Don

Rusty, if that part isn't working you will not get any power to the front diff no matter what setting 4x4 is in. You need to replace that part. See if Rockauto on line has a replacement for you.

 

[RustyRelic]

Rusty, if that part isn't working you will not get any power to the front diff no matter what setting 4x4 is in. You need to replace that part. See if Rockauto on line has a replacement for you.

Thanks. I think the design is gradually becoming clearer to me.
Rockauto does not have it, nor anyplace else I've looked over the past couple of years.

After I posted the above and reread it, I figured what you say was the case. If I now understand correctly, this vacuum motor engages the front driveshaft, regardless of whether for auto or 4wd low.

In auto, a clutch engages/disengages on the fly responding to slip; in low the clutch is locked in. But with the vacuum motor faulty, I am not getting the driveshaft engaged. If I were to follow another poster's advice and take out the vacuum motor and manually shift the lever it controls to engage the driveshaft, and if the clutch mechanism and logic is ok, then would I get 4wd on demand? I can live without 4wd low; and the mileage hit for running the front driveshaft does not bother me. I hardly use it except in bad weather.

Also, what is the likelihood of being able to fix the vacuum motor? Seems to me more likely it has a gasket or connecting tube leak, rather than being totally trashed...

Thanks again

 

[RomeovilleIL]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engage-Dise...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cc9cbfb5&vxp=mtr

A1 Auto (forum vendor) carries a new aftermarket replacement. 90% sure this is the right one. You can confirm with A1Tony that this is the correct replacement.

 

[tkob1060]

Rockauto does have the part, its under drivetrain, the 4wd hub locking solenoid. the have the right and left one and a lot cheaper the A1