How to: 2nd Gen Blend Door Quick Fix

[udmsvt]

Hey ya'll, I know it's been a while since I posted on the boards...but after some searching I think I found the right thread.

Currently I've got a 97 Limited 5.0 with the auto climate crap (I just got done upgrading the plug so I could replace the blower motor module).

Anyway, while running the antenna/harness for an aftermarket radio to the back, I noticed someone hacked up my box behind the glove. When I looked closer, i see a pair of vice grips in there.

I'm guessing that someone did this to fix the door inside to a certain position. Couldn't tell ya if a/c works because it won't hold a charge and hasn't been cold enough to really test heat.

Can anyone shed some light on what may have been done before I reach in and remove the grips? PM or post would be great.


Hi UDMSVT.
This thread explains this whole issue better than I can alone but I will summarize.
The top hinge post on the control door was manufactured sub-grade. It breaks and jams and it stops traveling from heat to AC. There is an inexpensive replacement door kit available that is built to serve. That kit is listed in this thread.
Some guys by-passed the designed workings in a number of different ways, from using a manual choke cable to vise grips I see now.
When you read the thread you see a number of good pictures, and will have a number of ways to solve the problem, including your own.
I have the same problem to fix when I get back to my 98. Sometimes it's just the actuator that attaches to the top of the black housing but it sounds like sooner than later the door problem will manifest. This repair can be completed without removing the whole black 'coffin' (I call it).

Thank you. I did go through the first 12 pages and did not see a picture that helped (which is why I posted). Most of the posts talk about reaching around behind, but as you can see, the grips are not behind. I am *assuming* they are holding the door open to the heater side (since a/c doesn't work anyways), it just didn't make sense based on what I was reading.

Does anyone have a diagram for a 97 with auto climate or can someone verify that's what the previous owner did based on the pics?

I can't get my hand in the hole to feel around or remove and before I attack it, I just want a bit more insight.

 

[tinkering]

Thank you. I did go through the first 12 pages and did not see a picture that helped (which is why I posted). Most of the posts talk about reaching around behind, but as you can see, the grips are not behind. I am *assuming* they are holding the door open to the heater side (since a/c doesn't work anyways), it just didn't make sense based on what I was reading.

Does anyone have a diagram for a 97 with auto climate or can someone verify that's what the previous owner did based on the pics?

I can't get my hand in the hole to feel around or remove and before I attack it, I just want a bit more insight.[/QUOTE]

I wasn't trying to be a snotty regarding whether you had read it or not; not intended to read that way. This is a good thread. I hope some more chime in with some more details for us.

 

[udmsvt]

Thank you. I did go through the first 12 pages and did not see a picture that helped (which is why I posted). Most of the posts talk about reaching around behind, but as you can see, the grips are not behind. I am *assuming* they are holding the door open to the heater side (since a/c doesn't work anyways), it just didn't make sense based on what I was reading.

Does anyone have a diagram for a 97 with auto climate or can someone verify that's what the previous owner did based on the pics?

I can't get my hand in the hole to feel around or remove and before I attack it, I just want a bit more insight.

I wasn't trying to be a snotty regarding whether you had read it or not; not intended to read that way. This is a good thread. I hope some more chime in with some more details for us.[/QUOTE]

No worries...as you can see, I've been a member a LONG time and have had my share of misunderstandings.

And yes, it is a good thread. At first I had no idea what that box even was but through searching, I found this thread and have gained some insight. Now if I can figure out what it was that's "rigged" so I can fix it right or let it be then I will be all set.

I'll tell ya what...it cost me $900 for the truck and I made a list of issues to fix but it starts n drives so I can't argue.

 

[tinkering]

I wasn't trying to be a snotty regarding whether you had read it or not; not intended to read that way. This is a good thread. I hope some more chime in with some more details for us.

No worries...as you can see, I've been a member a LONG time and have had my share of misunderstandings.

And yes, it is a good thread. At first I had no idea what that box even was but through searching, I found this thread and have gained some insight. Now if I can figure out what it was that's "rigged" so I can fix it right or let it be then I will be all set.

I'll tell ya what...it cost me $900 for the truck and I made a list of issues to fix but it starts n drives so I can't argue.[/QUOTE]

No kidding. I payed 1200$ for mine and I feel the same way about the list of fixes. I don't mind and sometimes enjoy fixes when the vehicle is 'worth it' to me.

I haven't had mine apart yet but when I get back, along with a plethora of other jobs that have accumulated around the place, I will get this job done before the cold is here to stay. I could see me doing something similar to clamping the door in place so I have heat for the winter, and then working on a more functional A/C inclusive fix later.

 

[crunchie_frog]

Okay, my son is at school in Minnesota, I live in South Carolina, and he called a couple of weeks ago and he said he had no heat. I had him check that the coolant was full (it was), had him start the car and confirm the engine was coming up to temp (it was) and verify both heater hoses were hot (they were). That left the blend door as the likely culprit. There was no clicking noise under the dash when he moved the temp setting (manual control) so I suspected the blend door actuator. I found a nice video (Google "how to install replace air temperature door actuator explorer mountaineer 98-01 1aauto.com"). I sent him the tools and he went out to try it yesterday. Well it was the actuator and he is now has heat! It is probably in the theads, but when I pulled actuators from the ones in the junk yard to send him, they are stamped man and auto for the manual and electronic auto temp control so they are different. I also experimented in the junk yard with cutting open access to the blend door. I found that a box cutter worked great for making the initial cut through the plastic and for etching an outline of where to cut. I had the blade on the box cutter almost fully retracted so I was able to safely apply force to make the initial cut, I then took a large, sharp, lock blade, pocket knife and went through the holes I made with the box cutter and cut out the three sided rectangle with the vertical cut on the outside (like the original poster did) and I was able to easily access the blend door. Also, I ground down the 8 mm socket I sent to my son to give a little more clearance to get to the back bolt on the actuator. Thanks for all the posts on this.

 

[RangerNutt]

After so many years, this is still the best thread on the web for this job. To say thanks, I'll add a few pointers from my experience.

• 
  The soldering iron method was fastest and cleanest. No chips or mess, and the plastic welded back together cleanly in a few minutes with no need for tape.

• 
  My blend door had only the upper socket partly broken out, so rather than risk a tool slip, I broke it by hand. it took only a few seconds to reach inside, press upward on the door bottom with the heel of the palm while pulling the center spine with fingertips in a twisting action, and break the door with a satisfying SNAP! (It dropped out in two easy pieces.)

• 
  No amount of trying could get the new door top to fit in the hole. The diameters were just too close -- they couldn't line up. In this case, rather than break something by forcing, I made the extra cut (or 'melt') around the lower pivot leaving only the back side connected. The socket could then be bent down to receive the lower hinge 'pin' (which allowed the top to align and slide in).

• 
  After melting the cuts back together, the plastic felt as rigid as before. And for anyone who wanted to look, there was only a thin telltale seam. Very clean.

• 
  Lastly, the soldering iron was returned to its regular duty by filing the surface clean (down to the copper) and tinning with solder. Good as new.

Thanks again to all the contributors here.

 

[Marty58]

5minute fix for the blend door

hello fellow members , I am a new member here and just read a post from sticky I believe ! I am having heat issues with my 2000 Explorer and I believe I have the fix now ! Thanks for the info Marty58

 

[jammor]

Thanks!

Working on Blend door/actuator--I have taken the cutoff wheel to my plastic housing that contains the blend door....i think the door "posts" may have broken or perhaps the gears are stripped in the actuator. Close to finding out. I'll post pictures when I'm done.

 

[wishfuldrinkin]

Hey everyone. I'm new here, just bought a 00 Mountaineer on Thursday. The previous owner said it needed the blend door replaced and even bought the door.

Well, I got in there today and the door is fine, but the actuator itself is missing... not that big of a deal, actually happy that it's a bit easier of a fix... but wait... what are these loose wires? Some dope cut the connector off!

Does anyone know how I can get ahold of one or can get me some good pictures of it?

I'm having trouble locating one at a junk yard around here.

 

[jammor]

Picture Blend door wiring

I have a picture but I do not know how to paste it into this thread.
The "Insert Image" button asks me to direct you to a URL however I do not have the picture published to a webpage.....I just have it on my computer.
Please advise how to post image here
thanks

 

[wishfuldrinkin]

It was a good day. I've found a harness, the only problem now is that I think it's from a newer explorer as the wire colors are different.

This is what I have in my 00 mounty 5.0:
It appears to be brown(purple?)/white, dark green, green/orange, orange, and orange/black

This is the harness I have (picture by jammor):
It is yellow/green, green/orange, grey/red, grey/yellow, and black.

If anyone out there has the same color wires I do, and can take a picture of their harness so I can hook the new one up, I'd be forever grateful.

 

[wishfuldrinkin]

If it makes any difference, I don't have a temperature knob, I have the red and blue buttons to set the temperature. I also have rear air.

 

[explorer96owner]

there's something more going on here, but it worked for me

I have the same probelm. This is how i get around it.

1. Locate the valve that controls heater taps under the hood

2. When you engine is off, the tap will be closed.

3. When your engine starts the AC system releases the valve to the open position which is why hot air poors into the cabin.

4. Before you start your engine, apply a ZIP CABLE TIE to the tap to keep it closed.

5. Start your engine and turn on AC. Not hot water means no hot air. The AC works perfect.

6. In winter, remove the ZIP CABLE TIE and you have heat again.

I have been using this system for two years and its the best and simplest way to control the heat coming in.

What i would like is for someone to invent a manual cable that goes from the dash the the heater tap valve to control it from the drivers seat.

First person to design a simple version is a dead set legend.

i looked over all the suggestions and decided to try this one, because it looks to be the easiest and least destructive.

i looked around under the hood and found the two water hoses going into the cab on the passenger side, and towards the dash and leftwards of the oil cap off one of those hoses is the "tap", a vacuum switch.

it's a black tank about the size of a walnut with a vacuum hose coming off the top. the valve to this vacuum switch is attached to the stem on the bottom of it. if you note where it's at and then turn your vehicle and look again, it will likely be changed so you'll know what he was talking about.

when on AC the vacuum switch for this opened, but it closed on MAX AC, and i say open with the stem fully extended and closed when it moves up towards the switch body.

so i turned off the 96 explorer and manually held the switch closed while i tied it. AC now cools. MAX AC still cools.

i'm wondering if closing that blend door, or opening it (i've seen two different versions of that story), which is undoubtedly the problem, will give me better cooling when on only AC. i suppose it might but then again it might not ...

i'm really surprised no one else has commented on this as it seems to work and you only have to have a bit of wire or a tie and get under the hood for a few seconds.

 

[jammor]

still working

Still working on mine...I got distracted.
Having a DEVIL of a time removing that back bolt on the actuator. Finally popped the black plastic cover off dash at front windshield, removed airbag and can "sort of" get a flexible shaft down there with a socket.

I can grab the blend door but not remove it. I'm afraid I'm going to have to pull the dang air/blend box out---problem is the actual door broke not the actuator.

The $10 Dorman kit I bought at OReilly's asked you to pull the box and cut into it from the top. If I'm going to have to do all that I might as well just slap some Velcro and string on it and switch it seasonally......

Keep you posted

 

[gdgiordano]

Still working on mine...I got distracted.
Having a DEVIL of a time removing that back bolt on the actuator. Finally popped the black plastic cover off dash at front windshield, removed airbag and can "sort of" get a flexible shaft down there with a socket.

I can grab the blend door but not remove it. I'm afraid I'm going to have to pull the dang air/blend box out---problem is the actual door broke not the actuator.

The $10 Dorman kit I bought at OReilly's asked you to pull the box and cut into it from the top. If I'm going to have to do all that I might as well just slap some Velcro and string on it and switch it seasonally......

Keep you posted

I did mine from below. Only took out the glovebox.

 

[jammor]

Thanks

Thanks I'll consider from the bottom. or the soldering iron approach.

 

[gdgiordano]

Thanks I'll consider from the bottom. or the soldering iron approach.

A cable dremmel would be a must.

 

[northman56]

Blend air door servo issue, Help!!

I did the door replacement, but now have servo issues. The a/c doesn't come on at all until I unplug the servo, then it will come on & I can plug servo back in. Soon as I shut off the a/c I have to repeat same procedure to get it to work again. Does this mean i have a bad circuit board in the servo??

 

[northman56]

I think I might have the problem figured out, i pulled the servo back off & it says manual on a orange sticker, my guess there is a different one that says auto & that's what I need, even tho they look the same.

 

[jammor]

Northman sorry you are are having electrical issues. I think mine is just mechanical. I do have rear air too.

I'm going to take gdgiodano's advice and get mine from the bottom. Got a dremel with flexible shaft and soldering iron.

Will let y'all know how that works.