How to: How to install an aux transmission cooler 96

[Andy96XLT]

Well after searching through the site and asking a lot of questions I finally decided to tackle putting my aux trans cooler on my 1996 XLT. I bought the cooler because in the summer I tow a small boat and in the winter I plow my driveway and some neighbors. Since nobody else seems to have a step by step "how to" on installing one, I thought I would give back to the site and post how I did it. Also this helps for people who do not have factory transmission coolers like me

Items you will need:
Transmission cooler
Rags
Tubing cutter
Transmission hose (high psi and high temp)
Hose clamps
Transmission fluid
Zip ties
Plastic Cup or anything to catch leaking tranny fluid
Ratchet and various sockets for bumper

To start I got my explorer in the garage and got all my tools ready. I used a hayden transmission cooler good for vehicles up to 25000 lbs

To start the task I tool off my bumper to get better access to the trans lines and to figure out where I was going to mount the transmission cooler, I realized after you probably do not need to take the bumper off, but its much easier and its just 4 bolts.

Once the bumper was off I started on the actual cooler install. The first thing I needed to do was locate the return fluid line that goes back to the transmission. I found that lower line on the clip is the return line

I seperated the two lines since they were clipped together and mocked up where I was going to place the cooler and where to cut the actual transmission line.

Before I cut the trans line I mounted the cooler where I wanted (I needed to mount it in an odd place because I have an HHO generator but It actually turned out very well) with the high pressure hoses already attached to the cooler.

I than used a tubing cutter and cut after the first visable bend after coming out of the radiator. This is right where the enter and return line meet.

I placed a cup underneith to catch the little bit of leaking transmission fluid and to try to avoid making a mess.

I than cut the tube after the 2nd bend (where the return and enter line seperate)

Here is a picture of the lines attached. I know its not a great picture but you can see where the bottom line coming out of the cooler attaches back to the factory line

And here is again a not so good picture of the line coming from the original line into the transmission cooler

I found I lost about 4 oz of fluid during this task so I refilled it with some fresh ATF and now its set.

After everything check to make sure you have no leaks and reattach the bumper.

I am going to check the ATF levels every day for the next few days just to make sure that i have no leaks and everything is holding well.

Hope this helps!!

 

[BrooklynBay]

Thanks for taking the time to make this write up! I'm sure that a lot of people will benefit from your information. I've made it a sticky.

 

[Andy96XLT]

No problem, Thanks for the help yesterday. I was able to get a cutter for 7 at autozone ha.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did you get the cooler in Autozone too?

 

[Andy96XLT]

nope, ebay over the summer (thats how long its been sitting in my room) I think I paid $22 for it shipped to my door and its $35 plus shipping in online stores

 

[96eb96]

Very nice, but I would flare the metal ends of steel tubing for added retention. You could get a flaring kit for around $10 at HF if you want when you can get there. It is probably ok as is but the lines are under pressure. Look at the pic of the actual cooler. The lines have a dimple/flare from the factory.

Other thing is the leak by your power steering rack under the tube fitting. I had that rust out on my 96 and piss out all the PS fluid, and it left a stream like that a few weeks before it happened. Those tubes are a few dollars at the ford dealer, so its something you (or anyone with a mid-late 90s ex) may want to take care of. You do not need to change the rack.

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could use compression fittings if you don't want to flare the tubing.

 

[Andy96XLT]

I drove today a few times maybe a total of 30 miles and didn't have any leaks. I had a very hard time getting the tubing on the lines so I know its tight and I do have the hose clamps on right now which seem to be working. If I find in a couple days that the hoses look to be slipping I will probably try to flarre the tubes, but for right now it seems ok. Thanks for the advice!

 

[Andy96XLT]

also 96eb, where exactly are you talking about a leak? Im a little confused. Thanks!

 

[96eb96]

also 96eb, where exactly are you talking about a leak? Im a little confused. Thanks!

Look at your 4th pic from the top. Do you see a leak on the crossmember? About in the center of the rack under a fitting? I had that fitting leak out all the PS fluid due to rust. It used to sweat fluid like that for years. One day it just said Uncle and gave out. There was lots of salt on the road when it finally gave. Just a heads up to keep an eye on it. There are two tubes like that.

You need a flare wrench set to get it off, or you have to cut the tubes (tubing cutter may come in handy then break off with a plier) and use a socket. Do not use a standard wrench, you are sure to strip/ruin the fitting. Use PB on the threads before removal.

 

[dickster@rogers.]

94EX Auto trans COOLER?

Question re tranny coolers. Can one use a A/C cooler as tranny fluid cooler. I took out my A/C [4 a sun roof] & still have the cooler mounted in front of the rad...Be a NATUREL if it works. When I install my cooler, I will bye pass the rad as the proper size cooler will more than do the job. Thanks Dick

 

[96eb96]

Question re tranny coolers. Can one use a A/C cooler as tranny fluid cooler. I took out my A/C [4 a sun roof] & still have the cooler mounted in front of the rad...Be a NATUREL if it works. When I install my cooler, I will bye pass the rad as the proper size cooler will more than do the job. Thanks Dick

The only thing I would worry about is the oil that is left over from the A/C. I know when an A/C system fails they replace the condenser b/c its almost impossible to clear of oil and contaminants.

I wouldn't do this, but if you do it make sure you flush that unit out a few times and air dry it, then pump a few quarts of atf to flush it when not connected to the trans.

 

[Lloyd10977]

I did the same mod about a year ago with the exception that I used 2 hose clamps on each of the unflared lines that were cut. I carefully marked and measured the location of the hose and noticed some creep after a drive of about 300 miles in warm weather in spite of the fact that the hose was tight and the single clamps were tight. Doubled the clamps and no creep. Clamps are cheap insurance. And no leaks to date.

 

[htrdlncn]

I second the flaring of tube or the double or even triple clamps, while it may be fine under normal use the day you tow a heavy load up an incline it may suddenly decide to let go. Has happened to me before. The cost of a couple clamps is more than worth it..

 

[96eb96]

I second the flaring of tube or the double or even triple clamps, while it may be fine under normal use the day you tow a heavy load up an incline it may suddenly decide to let go. Has happened to me before. The cost of a couple clamps is more than worth it..

Yup, and remember that trans fluid is an excellent lubricant and some say a better penetrant than PB blaster. Eventually it can work between the clamps and slip the lines down. I think multiple clamps are just buying more time. Another reason to flare the lines. The other option like brooklyn bay said is to get a compression fitting with a straight barbed end. You can find these at the plumbing section at lowes.

 

[Andy96XLT]

I just checked one of my lines today and and added a second clamp to one of the lines because there was fluid on the hose. The fluid did not smell or look like transmission fluid but I figured I would throw the clamp on anyway. I am thinking more and more about doing some sort of flaring but I am also interested in the compression fitting. I am sorry if im a little naive but how do they work? Is it easier than using a flaring tool that I would have to buy? Also where can I buy the fittings? Thanks.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Question re tranny coolers. Can one use an A/C condenser as tranny fluid cooler? I took out my A/C [4 a sun roof] & still have the cooler mounted in front of the rad...Be a NATURAL if it works. When I install my cooler, I will bypass the radiator as the proper size cooler will more than do the job. Thanks Dick

Here's my response to your PM:

Although it's important to keep the fluid cool, it's also important to keep the fluid at the correct operating temperature. The temperature of the fluid will increase faster if it's going through the radiator. The old condenser might have some junk from the A/C system in it. You would have to flush the condenser thoroughly with cooler cleaner to get it all out. In theory it could work, but it's recommended to use the existing connection on a radiator with the condenser cooler. If you live in a warm climate like southern California or Mexico, you wouldn't need to use the connection on the radiator.

 

[96eb96]

I just checked one of my lines today and and added a second clamp to one of the lines because there was fluid on the hose. The fluid did not smell or look like transmission fluid but I figured I would throw the clamp on anyway. I am thinking more and more about doing some sort of flaring but I am also interested in the compression fitting. I am sorry if im a little naive but how do they work? Is it easier than using a flaring tool that I would have to buy? Also where can I buy the fittings? Thanks.

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/pl_pipes_fittings/article/0,,DIY_14190_2270855,00.html

Look at figures I-J on the right side.

Do you see the sleeve (ferrule) that goes on the pipe? Then an special fitting crushes that ferrule into the pipe and the nut is behind it. You would have to look in lowes plumbing section for a compression fitting with a straight "barbed" end. Then you can clamp the hose with double clamps to that and be sure. Of course you need to know the diameter of the hoses...not sure but there aren't too many choices.

They also show flaring in there as well, you would make the flare and slip the hose over the bell and then clamp.

Sort of related, but brake lines have to be double flared. Some people will cut corners with a compression or single flare only to have the line blow out in a panic stop! So using the appropriate connector is very important for any fluid application!

 

[96eb96]

You also may need two fittings (4 in total) One for compression, the other a barbed fitting that will screw into the compression fitting. Most pluming fittings use NPT threads, so as long as the diameter is ok you are fine.

I will make this suggestion for others in the future, I don't think it will help now..but you don't have to cut your tubes at all. You can get a 3/8" I believe NPT barb fitting and thread it into the transmission cooler on the radiator. Then a Female (or male) will thread into the fitting on the pipe end. Then you connect your cooler lines to the barb.

I use an arrangement like this to flush my trans...I've seen these fittings in advance auto or lowes/HD plumbing section.

 

[Lloyd10977]

I just checked one of my lines today and and added a second clamp to one of the lines because there was fluid on the hose. The fluid did not smell or look like transmission fluid but I figured I would throw the clamp on anyway. I am thinking more and more about doing some sort of flaring but I am also interested in the compression fitting. I am sorry if im a little naive but how do they work? Is it easier than using a flaring tool that I would have to buy? Also where can I buy the fittings? Thanks.

I rechecked my connections yesterday and decided to put a slight flare in the metal lines for security. Took all of 10 minutes, but anyone deciding to go this route should beware and go SLOW! Steel lines do not flare as easily as aluminum or copper so they may split if pushed too fast.

The compression fitting idea seems like a great idea and I just might convert to that one day.