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How to make your Ford Explorer steering column telescope PICS
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Hitchhikingmike
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I just completed this mod with my son on his Eddie Bauer. Thanks to the great write-up and pictures it went pretty smooth. We used a Dremel with 1.5" disks to cut the block. There was only one thing we had to do that we didn't see mentioned. Apparently to aid in the manufacturing process, Ford keyed the block with two small raised lined on the part that goes into the steering column (you can actually see one of them in the picture above).They fit into two small slots in the column. We filed down lines and that allowed the block to slide smoothly in the column.
Yes you are correct, I failed to mention that.
I'm glad to see other people easily able to modify their steering column as well. It really isn't that hard to do.
I usually drive with the column puled out all the way to allow my elbows to rest well within range of the arm rests while driving. Whenever I have passengers riding with me in the back, I usually pull my seat forward to allow more leg room. When I do this I will push the steering column forward at the same time so I don't feel like I really lost my space.
It really is convent to have.
muzzymaniac
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Great mod! Thanks tons!!! I used a dremel to cut mine and it only took a couple hours. If you attempt this with a dremel or similar tool use the fiber reinforced cutting discs. They're the ones that have a cross weave pattern in them. I tried a few other - even a diamond cutting disc and the fiber ones worked best. Just a couple of additional notes:
Nut is a 1/2"
Torx side is a t30
I used thread locker on the nut since you really can't torque the nut down. Also, there isn't much room on the torx side so forget about using a torx screwdriver. You'll need a socket.
The other cool thing about this is that I fixed my stuck gear indicator while Iwas in there. It hasn't seen "P" in over a year! lol!
Nut is a 1/2"
Torx side is a t30
I used thread locker on the nut since you really can't torque the nut down. Also, there isn't much room on the torx side so forget about using a torx screwdriver. You'll need a socket.
The other cool thing about this is that I fixed my stuck gear indicator while Iwas in there. It hasn't seen "P" in over a year! lol!
kstrayhorn
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So will this be able to lock in when telescoped? I'm sure it will, but just thought I'd ask before I go grinding parts.
Hitchhikingmike
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So will this be able to lock in when telescoped? I'm sure it will, but just thought I'd ask before I go grinding parts.
Correct, you can lock the steering column so it would not freely telescope after the modification.
mulletcar
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sorry to bring this back up, just have a question.. so the lever that locks the tilt locks the telescope function after that block is modified?
Curtis
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sorry to bring this back up, just have a question.. so the lever that locks the tilt locks the telescope function after that block is modified?
Yes, that lever squats the position of the column in place, be that in or out or up or down.
thebrakeman
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Anyone check this on an '06 or later (4th gen?).
JoshMcMadMac
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I just did this on Sunday, and it is great...thanks Mike!
Does anyone have a picture of what an "original" telescoping block looks like?
Does anyone have a picture of what an "original" telescoping block looks like?
360cid
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The black arrow points to it. There is one on the other side too.
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What is the final dimension of the block in the photo once machined? You can see that it is flat on both side of the block with the hole in the center, and do not touch where the arrows are, but where the yellow area is after final machining? Do not want to go too deep or have to machine it twice because I went too shallow!:smoke:
muzzymaniac
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Yes you just remove the yellow parts. Right where the black arrow points is a little ridge you take off too. As for how much. That's up to you. I left about what was in the picture. If I did it again I would go closer to the hole. The more you take off the more extension you get.
Hitchhikingmike
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Correct. Just use ingenuity when machining the piece down.
Also, you want a little bit of a straight side. This is because the back side of that block is the other half of the expanding/locking clutch. So the straight side on the block is necessary to be used as a reaction force when you tighten the lever when you adjust the steering column. Remember that.
You will have no problem if you machine your piece relative to mine in the photo.
Also, you want a little bit of a straight side. This is because the back side of that block is the other half of the expanding/locking clutch. So the straight side on the block is necessary to be used as a reaction force when you tighten the lever when you adjust the steering column. Remember that.
You will have no problem if you machine your piece relative to mine in the photo.
Cowboysoldier
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Does anyone know, is the steering column on the 1st gens the same? I would like to do this option on my 91
Curtis
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Does anyone know, is the steering column on the 1st gens the same? I would like to do this option on my 91
Cant say for certain if you can do this... but its a totally different breed.
Im not sure the telescopic column was an option on the 1st and 2nd gens.
Hitchhikingmike
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Does anyone know, is the steering column on the 1st gens the same? I would like to do this option on my 91
It was not an option on the 1st gen. You would have to heavily modify your steering column and install a track for it to slide on.
You would essentially have to build yourself a new steering column. You should go ahead with it and let us know how to do it for 1st gens.

Cowboysoldier
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Or, maybe ill install a 3rd gen steering column? not sure in the difficulty there either... being deployed right now allows for alot of dreaming, but not alot of being able to compare parts... ill have to check on it when i get back to America
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Cowboysoldier
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first things first tho, when i get back, is going to be a full strip of the interior, a "waterproofing" of sorts, rhino lining, and an install of an 80's ranger vinyl bench seat.
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