98xploder
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- January 27, 2008
- Messages
- 150
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- ohio
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 98 xlt
WHAT YOU NEED:
TOOLS:
hacksaw
wd-40 ( for seized bolts)
c clamp
18mm wrench or ratchet (i used breaker bar)
vise grips
bench vise
here is the supply list. in case you cant read the reciept, i will list the parts i bought.
here is a list of what i needed to buy
1.hacksaw (it was $4.96, plus i didnt want to try using the sawz all to cut thru the metal pipe)
2. 7/16" SAE flat washers Qty=4 (2 per pack) $4.40 for all four packs
3. hitch pin 1/8x2 (2 of these, to go thru the clevis pin and hold the swaybar together) $1.36
4. 3/8"x3" black pipe QTY=1 (part 28023) (basically a 3" long pipe threaded on both ends) $1.38
5. 7/16"x2" clevis pin adjustable QTY=2 $5.64 for both
overall total for the build including buying the saw = $19.03
below is a picture of the hardware to do one side of the sway bar disconnects. (i didnt think to take pics before getting the other side together)
first, you need to get the old swaybar bolts out. its a pain, and you need vice grips on the bolt head, as it is just circular and you cannot get a wrench on it. you clamp the vice grips on the outside of the bolt on the head, and you get your 18mm wrench or ratchet to bust those suckers free. you then need to hammer the bolt out of the bushing on the swaybar link, it helps if you have a prybar to hold tension on the link as you hammer the bolt out to stabilize it, but i didnt find it necessary, if you get lucky like i did, your bushing came free from the bolt on the way out. if this is not the case, you can carefully remove the bushing from the bolt, but i would probably just replace the bushing if this was the case.
you then turn to your 3/8"x3" pipe you bought. cut it in half, then cut the threads off the ends. i used my bench vice and a hacksaw to do this part
once you get that done, take your c clamp and a little lube, and get your cut pipe to slide inside your bushing. it will act as a spacer in there.
after you get that part done, you get your washers and drop a couple down on the clevis pin, then slide it thru the bushing on the link, and then thru the swaybar.
throw a couple more washers on the outside, then slide your hitch pin into place to hold everything secure.
repeat these steps to the other side and youll be ready to rock in no time!
now for the before and after pics.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
hopefully if i get another day off of work, i will devise a plan to tackle the front sway bar links. i think i know how that one will work too, but only time will tell. by the way guys, i will post more pics of the whole process with the swaybar stuff apart tomorrow. it was beginning to get too dark to take good pics. at any rate, i hope this helps you guys out.
TOOLS:
hacksaw
wd-40 ( for seized bolts)
c clamp
18mm wrench or ratchet (i used breaker bar)
vise grips
bench vise
here is the supply list. in case you cant read the reciept, i will list the parts i bought.
here is a list of what i needed to buy
1.hacksaw (it was $4.96, plus i didnt want to try using the sawz all to cut thru the metal pipe)
2. 7/16" SAE flat washers Qty=4 (2 per pack) $4.40 for all four packs
3. hitch pin 1/8x2 (2 of these, to go thru the clevis pin and hold the swaybar together) $1.36
4. 3/8"x3" black pipe QTY=1 (part 28023) (basically a 3" long pipe threaded on both ends) $1.38
5. 7/16"x2" clevis pin adjustable QTY=2 $5.64 for both
overall total for the build including buying the saw = $19.03
below is a picture of the hardware to do one side of the sway bar disconnects. (i didnt think to take pics before getting the other side together)
first, you need to get the old swaybar bolts out. its a pain, and you need vice grips on the bolt head, as it is just circular and you cannot get a wrench on it. you clamp the vice grips on the outside of the bolt on the head, and you get your 18mm wrench or ratchet to bust those suckers free. you then need to hammer the bolt out of the bushing on the swaybar link, it helps if you have a prybar to hold tension on the link as you hammer the bolt out to stabilize it, but i didnt find it necessary, if you get lucky like i did, your bushing came free from the bolt on the way out. if this is not the case, you can carefully remove the bushing from the bolt, but i would probably just replace the bushing if this was the case.
you then turn to your 3/8"x3" pipe you bought. cut it in half, then cut the threads off the ends. i used my bench vice and a hacksaw to do this part
once you get that done, take your c clamp and a little lube, and get your cut pipe to slide inside your bushing. it will act as a spacer in there.
after you get that part done, you get your washers and drop a couple down on the clevis pin, then slide it thru the bushing on the link, and then thru the swaybar.
throw a couple more washers on the outside, then slide your hitch pin into place to hold everything secure.
repeat these steps to the other side and youll be ready to rock in no time!
now for the before and after pics.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
hopefully if i get another day off of work, i will devise a plan to tackle the front sway bar links. i think i know how that one will work too, but only time will tell. by the way guys, i will post more pics of the whole process with the swaybar stuff apart tomorrow. it was beginning to get too dark to take good pics. at any rate, i hope this helps you guys out.
