How to remove shift cable for Band adjustment | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

How to remove shift cable for Band adjustment

bluestream1

Well-Known Member
Joined
November 9, 2005
Messages
949
Reaction score
3
City, State
Waterloo Ontario
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 XLT 4.0 SOHC 4X4
I would like to adjust my transmission bands, but can't seem to get the shift cable off the DTR sensor lever to provide enough room. Does this thing just pop off, or should I take the whole arm off with the nut? I am afraid to use too much force in case I damage it.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Just wedge a relatively thin flat-head screwdriver behind it and with a twist, it will pop right off. It won't break.
 






the fun part will be getting to the rear adjustment, I could not get my DTR sensor off. You can work around it, but it's a PITA
 






Well, I got the front band adjusted. It had a lot rust on the bolt, and it the bolt bearly moved.

How does the DTR sensor come off? I would like to remove it before doing the intermeditae band?
 






2 bolts hold it in place. Mark the alignment before you remove it.
 






Although it's a bit of a hassle, you should be able to make the adjustment without removing the DTR, and I suggest you not take the DTR off if it's not absolutely necessary. There are two small (I think 8mm) bolts that also help to adjust it, and, of course, the larger nut on the lever. Hold the lever in place while you loosen the nut. I used a pair of vice grips and an box wrench. It's really simple to take the DTR off, but could be a bigger challenge getting it properly aligned after you reinstall it. Should be ok though if your reverse lights come on when you shift to R.
 






I went to adjust my intermediate band tonight, and it did not go well. The threads were rusty, so I buffed them with a dremel wire wheel, and sprayed with PB blaster. I broke the nut loose, and with each turn it got tighter and tighter as the nut moved onto the rusty part of the threads. By this time I had lost my original reference point with the stud, so I was in past the point of no return. I could barely get the nut to move at this point, and I was thinking the stud might break at any time. I was pulling down with the 19MM wrench, and had lots of leverage, but it barely moved. I finally got the nut backed off to where I could torque the stud to 120 inch pounds and back it out 2 turns. I looked at my socket, and it now has hairline cracks in the side from all the force I had to use.

Here's were the problem came in. Lying on my back under the truck, I can't not get enough leverage on the 19mm to tighten the nut. I have to push up, and hold the stud with my other hand, and she isn’t moving at all. If I had it on a hoist, I think it would be easier, or if I remove the dtr sensor, I think I could do it, but I am concerned about getting it back on correctly.

Any ideas how to get the nut tightened???
 






I had similar problems with mine, the stupid DTR sensor which would not come off. I ended up marking the position of the adjuster bolt (after I got the 120inlb setting with 2 turns out) them put a wrench on the nut and hold it solid, then I turned the adjuster bolt, holding the nut in place. turn the bolt enough to move one flat spot on the nut, then remove the wrench from the nut and back the bolt out one flat spot on the nut. So your basically monkeying the nut tighter on the bolt by tightening and loosening the bolt. Using this process I was able to get the nut down paste the rusty threads and could then properly turn it tight. Does that make sense? it is hard to explain in text.

Just make sure you have the bolt set back at your marked position, oh and never turn the bolt more than one flat spot at a time just to ensure you don't spin it one rotation and screw up your marks.
 






That was a great idea; and it worked well. As soon as I got the nut to move a few turns, it loosend right up and the rest was easy.

After going through this, I think the stud is in the same position as before I did the adjustment. This would indicate that after 170,000KM there was very little wear on that band. After reading how another person broke their band trying to adjust it, I don't think this is worth it unless you are having problems.
 






After reading how another person broke their band trying to adjust it, I don't think this is worth it unless you are having problems.

Believe me if it starts to slip, you will in short fashion burn up many valuable parts in your transmission.

I can assure you it is worth adjusting the bands. They are probably the weakest link in this transmission and should be handled with care. If someone broke their bands while performing this service there are two possibilities.

1) his/her bands were about to break, and would have failed with or without the adjustments
2) he/she did not follow the torque specs and over tightened the bands causing extreme stress on the parts

When you perform any service you need to do your research and know what you need to do before you do it, that goes for anything in life. It would be like never changing your oil because someone stripped their drain plug. Your bands may have not needed adjustment, however you never know until it's too late. And you don't want it to be too late, or it will cost you up wards of $2K for a new/rebuilt transmission.

IMHO...
 






so if it important to adjust bands what symptoms should i look for mine slips when shifting from 3rd to second or at least that is what it seems and it will slip if I press down on the gas hard enough to down shift into passing gear Ps I can ease into it and it doesnt happen though
 






Featured Content

Back
Top