How to restore door pillars | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

How to restore door pillars

How the hell did I miss this thread? :dunno:
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











Machine Polishing by Dual Action Polisher - Full Guide

Wow... Nice work fellas!

New to this myself, other than spray painting, which I did for the new driver's door handle with excellent results.

I found this link to a pdf for Machine Polishing by Dual Action Polisher - Full Guide from Detailing World: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...apolishing.pdf

A very impressive piece of work here - check it out!

PS - Found another excellent pdf guide from Dupli-color on spray painting, from prep to finishing: http://www.duplicolor.com/pdfs/tips.pdf - Lots of good stuff here too!
 






The clear coat on my pillar for my 2014 explorer came off a bit when I applied the adhesive swab for applying the oem window visors. I'm royally pissed because I won't to restore the spot that got removed but don't know how. It's just a smal spot maybe 2 inches in length and half inch width.

Help!!!
Thanks

It is a 2014...take it back to the dealer under warranty. :thumbsup:
 






[MENTION=189122]PDXplore[/MENTION], don't know if you're still picking up emails from the forum. Is there any tricks to applying the vinyl pieces? Does there need to be a certain over hang amount that wraps around to the back?
Do you use an adhesive spray, or do they have a layer of self stick applied?
Do you need some kind of spreader to make sure it lays flat etc...

Anyone else have luck using the vinyl?
 






[MENTION=189122]PDXplore[/MENTION], don't know if you're still picking up emails from the forum. Is there any tricks to applying the vinyl pieces? Does there need to be a certain over hang amount that wraps around to the back?
Do you use an adhesive spray, or do they have a layer of self stick applied?
Do you need some kind of spreader to make sure it lays flat etc...

Anyone else have luck using the vinyl?
Figured I'd revive this thread after finally deciding to do something about the faded pillars on my Ex. Originally I was going to go the spray paint route but after reading PDX's success with vinyl, I decided go with vinyl for all the plastic trims (much less work than painting). The faded pillars/trims were a real eye sore and now my SUV looks new again.

I had purchased some oracal 751 online and underestimated how much was needed, so I didn't have enough to do the rear pillars. I searched for places that did vinyl wrap on cars in my area and bought a sheet from a highly rated place. His shop used Avery and he explained to me why he liked Avery over other brands and gave me tips on installation. Once I got home and applied the Avery vinyl, I could see why he liked it compared to oracal. It was stretchy and more forgiving if you left an air bubble. The stretchy material is also a bonus for the rear pillars that are curved. The Avery glossy black matched the oracal 751 glossy black pretty similarly, but the OCD part of me wanted everything to be uniform with one brand of vinyl so I took off the oracal I had applied to the other areas and put on the Avery vinyl. Overall, if anyone is looking to restore their faded pillars and trims, I'd suggest vinyl. As PDX mentioned earlier, make sure your surface is smooth prior to applying because any blemishes underneath with show through on the vinyl. I sanded prior and then wiped down with alcohol to get a clean surface. I'll post pics later on with the end product (it's been two weeks with vinyl now).
 






Figured I'd revive this thread after finally deciding to do something about the faded pillars on my Ex. Originally I was going to go the spray paint route but after reading PDX's success with vinyl, I decided go with vinyl for all the plastic trims (much less work than painting). The faded pillars/trims were a real eye sore and now my SUV looks new again.

I had purchased some oracal 751 online and underestimated how much was needed, so I didn't have enough to do the rear pillars. I searched for places that did vinyl wrap on cars in my area and bought a sheet from a highly rated place. His shop used Avery and he explained to me why he liked Avery over other brands and gave me tips on installation. Once I got home and applied the Avery vinyl, I could see why he liked it compared to oracal. It was stretchy and more forgiving if you left an air bubble. The stretchy material is also a bonus for the rear pillars that are curved. The Avery glossy black matched the oracal 751 glossy black pretty similarly, but the OCD part of me wanted everything to be uniform with one brand of vinyl so I took off the oracal I had applied to the other areas and put on the Avery vinyl. Overall, if anyone is looking to restore their faded pillars and trims, I'd suggest vinyl. As PDX mentioned earlier, make sure your surface is smooth prior to applying because any blemishes underneath with show through on the vinyl. I sanded prior and then wiped down with alcohol to get a clean surface. I'll post pics later on with the end product (it's been two weeks with vinyl now).


Do you use heat with either the Oracal or Avery product? Can you be more specific which Avery product you used? Thanks.
 






The specific Avery product is the Supreme Wrapping. It's made specifically for cars. He cut me a pretty large sheet for $40, so I have leftover if needed. I didn't have to use heat to apply. Just made sure the surface was clean (I used a wax/grease remover) and laid the vinyl on. You do have the option of using a heat gun or blow dryer if needed though. I forgot how high of a temp the wrap can withstand (he told me but I forgot). The flexibility of the wrap made it easier to apply on the pillar where I have the keyless entry numberpad. I just laid the wrap directly over the pad and then cut the opening with a box cutter.

IMAG0481a.jpg


IMAG0483a.jpg


IMAG0484a.jpg


IMAG0328.jpg
 






Bump from the dead...wonder if this could be a sticky since it seems to plague so many of these vehicles.

Anyway, I was looking for this thread as I'm going to do my 2nd Explorer this spring. Needed a reminder on the vinyl material...*may* try the repaint route but not sure.

I did my first Explorer (RIP) with all vinyl and was quite pleased with the results. The D-pillars were quite tricky to work with but once the water/soap solution was all dried, they looked good.

My thanks to the OP for originally creating this thread (albeit so long ago now!).
 






OK, so I'm trying to solve this problem with the pillars. I tried one brand of vinyl, got too many air bubbles, so I ordered Oracal 751, just tried it, got too many bubbles. Can someone help with how to apply the vinyl -- such as I think I'm getting the hint that you have to spray on water and soap solution before adding the vinyl ?????? I'm not worried about the edges, they seem to turn out good for me -- but the main field has air bubbles all over it. And with the other stuff I used originally, it looked good, then a month later, air bubbles. Frustrating. Helpful installation hints, please.
 






OK, so I'm trying to solve this problem with the pillars. I tried one brand of vinyl, got too many air bubbles, so I ordered Oracal 751, just tried it, got too many bubbles. Can someone help with how to apply the vinyl -- such as I think I'm getting the hint that you have to spray on water and soap solution before adding the vinyl ?????? I'm not worried about the edges, they seem to turn out good for me -- but the main field has air bubbles all over it. And with the other stuff I used originally, it looked good, then a month later, air bubbles. Frustrating. Helpful installation hints, please.

I tried the Oracal vinyl on my last Explorer, applied using the wet-apply method, and made sure to get as much bubbles out as possible with a mini squeegee (I didn't have an actual squeegee so I was using a credit card). There was some minor bubbling leftover initially after everything was squeegee'd out, but after a few days of sitting in the sun everything dried up and looked fine.

With this Explorer, I just bought some Avery vinyl that's specific for vehicles...the same stuff they use to do vinyl wrapping on cars. I applied this with the "dry" method...no soapy water solution was applied but the same process otherwise...squeegee out any air bubbles and let it sit. So far so good.

Only thing that comes to mind for your issue would be to maybe try applying some light heat to it after applying it. Maybe take a heat gun to it on the low setting, make sure to get all the solution is out...
 






Back
Top