!!!! I Need HELP!!!!!! This is a very challenging question!

[Turdle]

LOL
this thread went 3 pages and was diagnosed on the second post.


What do I win?

 

[williams.cory]

You can win the bill to pay for my new d/s!!!!!!! lol. What a way to make me feel stupid man. lol. hahahahahhahahahahahhahahahaha.

 

[tahoe_photog]

How bout a chance at successfully diagnosing 2 for 2?

My Mountaineer is clunking while accelerating too! Does this sound like the same issue?
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2048893

Not to steal any help away from Cory's thread. But, any advice will be greatly appreciated!

-Randy

 

[Mbrooks420]

LOL
this thread went 3 pages and was diagnosed on the second post.


What do I win?

Feel free to powder coat something real nice for yourself.

 

[Turdle]

Feel free to powder coat something real nice for yourself.

By golly I might.

 

[1993fordexploere]

it could be tihte universal joint in the front drive shafts that happend to me and my dad in my grandpas f-250 it started clunking but it wouldnt budge.

 

[rizzjc]

Hmm, I said transfer case too when I read this. I hope it is the driveshaft. Easier job, but the tcase isn't bad either. I've done both. The symptoms were exactly like when my tcase went, but JT is the master.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

LOL
this thread went 3 pages and was diagnosed on the second post.


What do I win?

A life time supply of Ladybugs

 

[JoeMahma]

Just got done taking it off. And that front driveshaft was my problem!!! what a relief!!! I was worried there for a couple days. But I want to leave the shaft off, but won't that burn up my t-case? I know some people says its ok and others say its really bad for it. There just a part of me that says I should put the d/s back on. Any input? And by the way, I wish my explorer was always 2wd! I was peelin out and man its got some power! I would have such a ball with it if it were 2wd! lol

You're going down the same path I did. I don't want to jinx you but be prepared when you put a new drive shaft on. You might still have the clunking. Sounds like you need a new drive shaft no matter what anyway.

Check this out.
http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192943

 

[williams.cory]

I want it to be the d/s but I was truonleshooting just incase it wasn't. But I plane to buy a d/s soon here and I'll keep you guys posted on what happens. Thanks sooooooo much for all your advice, I really appreciate it.

 

[gijoecam]

You will have to try to find one in a junk yard. They are not available from the dealer or through the aftermarket.

They're available all over the place... including the dealership.

What I dont understand is why does it do a lot of clunking when the vehicle doesnt move? It clunks a lot if I basically have it floored with the brakes mashed to the floor.

the reason it makes the noise is because the brakes are holding the wheels, but there is nothing keeping the trans from turning. The DS is not spinning but the trans is.

If you're not moving, neither is the driveshaft, or the transfer case (including the viscous coupling). If it clunks when brake-torquing and you're not moving, it can't be the driveshaft. Driveshafts don't spontaneously clunk.

I hope your salvage yards are more reasonable that the ones here. They wanted around 200 for them.

There is a local driveline shop that can cut the CV head off your old one and weld on a new CV head, clean it, and re-balance the assembly for $200. I can give you their contact info if you want it.

-Joe

 

[williams.cory]

Sure i'll take your contacts name and number. PM me it. Cant do it right away though, my wallet is to thin to handle the blow right now..........

 

[gijoecam]

No need for a PM... The name of the shop is Shaft Masters in Lincoln Park, MI. Their number is 313-383-6347. They quoted me $225 with my old one as a core about 9 months ago. Your mileage may vary...

-Joe

 

[kk430]

Williams.cory - Mine (2001 5.0 AWD w/ 150,000) was making a ticking noise that got faster as speed increased. Replaced a few other parts before figuring out it was the drive shaft. I was hoping it was the front U-Joint, but no.

There was a tear in the rubber boot, where water got in and grease got out.

Long story short, I did find a new CV on E-Bay. The bid price was $42, buy-it-now was only $54. Decided not to wait, with shipping it was $65.00. I put it in last weekend, noise is gone. It's probably one of those chinese knock-offs, the box was plain white with the part number hand-written on it with a black marker.

I took lots of pictures, was going to write it up when I got the time. If you already have the shaft out, that was actually the hardest part! If you want to see the pictures, let me know and I'll post something sooner. If I can figure out how to get the pictures into the message...

If you're power-braking and the CV is bad, when it slips I can see it making a heck of a racket.

 

[williams.cory]

Yeah taking the shaft out was really easy. Such a easy project it took me fircken forever! You know why? Stupid tools I was using was made in Korea!!!! And they kept breaking on me and stripping and not to mention my explorer was parked like a 1/2 mile from my tool box ( wasnt that far, but it sure seemed like it with all the trips i did ) so I had to keep runnin back and forth. lol. So I brought out the good ol' made in USA tools and knocked it out no prob. But after exaimining the boot, there was a really small tear in it. Makes perfect sence why it went out the day i went mudding Would have eventually went out but my erge to go have fun in it sped up the process.

 

[hunterdan]

If you ever get the Front driveshaft back in, I would not recommend flooring it while standing on the brakes, it won't be good for the shaft, transfer case, or anything that gets torque sent through it.

Dan

 

[kk430]

Yeah taking the shaft out was really easy. Such a easy project it took me fircken forever! You know why? Stupid tools I was using was made in Korea!!!! And they kept breaking on me and stripping and not to mention my explorer was parked like a 1/2 mile from my tool box ( wasnt that far, but it sure seemed like it with all the trips i did ) so I had to keep runnin back and forth. lol. So I brought out the good ol' made in USA tools and knocked it out no prob. But after exaimining the boot, there was a really small tear in it. Makes perfect sence why it went out the day i went mudding Would have eventually went out but my erge to go have fun in it sped up the process.

YUP! Did the same thing!

I broke three T-30 bits on the front, 1 socket on the back, and a ratchet decided to spin freely under pressure - glad I learned long ago to make sure the knuckles are not in line with anything sharp. I didn't mind the 1/2 mile hike to the toolbox so much as crawling in and out from under the darn thing so many times on a gravel driveway when I'm about 40 pounds overweight and my knees are shot - I'm getting too old for this $tuff!

That's why I said, now that it's out, replacing the CV is easy! I did buy a new set of spring-clip pliers, the cheapo ones I had would slip under the pressure of the clip. Get a good pair of those. I just checked E-Bay, there's 2 CV joints on there for $55 to $60 "buy it now". If you have a few days, try the auction. "Drivelines NW" is the name of the seller. I ordered it on Tuesday and I had it by Friday.

The U-Joint in the front was obviously going to give me a hard time. I've never done one before, but I've seen them be pretty tough to come out.
Sprayed it down with WD-40 then let it sit overnight , and went at it a little with a 2-pound hammer and punch - didn't want to move. I cut the center off with an air grinder, and then the ends came right out with the hammer and punch. No sweat at all. If you have access to a compressor, the grinder is a great investment - pretty cheap in those Korean stores!

Good luck

 

[williams.cory]

lol. Experiances with our explorers! Was really hard to get underneath mine because all I had was a smaller jack and 2 jack stands. Only got to lift it a couple inches. So I had to almost squeeze under it. Haha. But thanks for telling me about eBay. I started to look at first and didnt see anything and I kinda just forgot about it. I'm surfing on there now. I have to replace both U-joints in the rear driveshaft. We'll see how tuogh it is, expecialy up here in Michigan! Everything up here is sooo rusted! I had a flat in my Explorer when I first got it, and so I got out the jack and put the spare on the ground. Time came to get the spare tire holder that goes in the middle of the tire out. Well guess what! It is rusted shut!! So after pounding it multiple times with whatever I could grab it finally came free. I thought it was going to go easy from here on out but murphys law had to come into play one more time. I went to go jack it up and I couldnt because the jack it came with from the factory was so rusted it would not barge at all. I tried so hard I almost broke the tool to jack my spare tire up and down! So I was screwed for a while, just because my jack wouldnt work! Luckily a good smaritan stopped by just after I had starter to walk for help. Ran back and he happend to have a big 2 tons jack that worked like a charm.

 

[lower4x4]

ya, this same thing happend to me, it started blowing drive shafts off left and right, take it to a shop and have it fixed. u cn get a used driveshaft for around 50.00 its scary when that thing flyes off and very dangerous min almost came up through the floor, it put a big ass dent in da floor luckily u cnt c it.

 

[410Fortune]

Dang the 96 5.0L AWD t case has a regular style front d shaft LOL, no CV flange!
For the 97+ guys that are running through the CV style shafts you may consider using the 96 AWD case and d shaft

For guys with the 5.0L AWD who like to go mudding or off road, DITCH the AWD and get yourself dirty with a manual 4406 4x4 conversion, makes your soccer mom grocery getter into a real 4x4 truck

The 88 BII had a CV style rear driveshaft, NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS
the fix was to go get a 84-87 driveshaft and bolt it in

You think Ford would learn?