If your 4WD switch looks like this AUTO, 4HI, 4LO then...

[Yomie]

Hey jot your pics arent showing up ( i know OLD thread) but do you think you can retrieve this picture for me again, the pic showing the yellow wire?

 

[JoshC]

Well, i would love to, but i went through on this computer a few weeks ago and got rid of some old picutres and that happened to be one. Here is a picture of part of the wiring diagram. The bottom one on the left is the wire that i spliced. I'm about 99% sure that it was like the third wire down from the top. I'm not sure. Let me know if you need some help, i could pull my radio really quick and let you know. I know it is hard to read, but that's the best i could do with the size upload limit.

Happy trails!!

 

[bonnich]

any news on that 2wd, 4 auto, 4lo to 2wd, 4 hi, 4lo. on a 96

 

[bonnich]

i would like the 2wd low feature also.

 

[JoshC]

I think the only way you will beable to do that is if you have a manual tcase installed. On the 95's and 96's, you're going to have to leave the shift motor i think it was, on the frame somewhere so that it tricks the computer into thinking the front wheels are engaged if you have a manual tcase, but if you don't turn the switch on, then you can put it in low range and be in 2wd. See what i'm saying?

Happy trails!!

 

[Yomie]

Yeah when you get a chance do you thinkg you could pull your radio and take a shot. I pulle dmy radio yesterday, but then suddenly became lost, where exactly is the GEM back there?

 

[JoshC]

The GEM is on the left side, looks just like the computer that you have under your hood. If you have no idea what that looks like then it is about 1" thick, and about a 5x5 square, or there close to that. but you'll see all the wires going to it. It also controls all the interior lights, so if you pull it out and take the wiring harness out of it and your lights go out, that's why. I had mine out and took it to ford cause i thought i had a problem that wasn't it. It's safe to take it out, but look and see if there isn't a yellow wire toward the top and when i get a change i'll get a picture for you.

Happy trails!!

 

[SWLathrop]

"Jot017", Have you actually taken all 4 tires off the ground and tried your switch? You'll find that you're X will still turn the gront axle. All you're doing with the switch is disabling the computers ability to automatically engage the T-case into the 4-HI mode. With a viscus clutch and a 3-ball torque ramp inside the T-Case, you will always be providing a certain percentage of power to the front axle until cruising at 35+MPH.

 

[JoshC]

No, i haven't actually taken it off the ground. I've never really thought about it. But i can tell you that it works. I do not have auto any or any kind of 4wd when the switch is off if that is what you are asking. I can do donuts in the rain (not real smart), play around in the mud or what ever, i know that it doesn't work and that i now have 2wd.

Happy trails!!

 

[Yomie]

ok, i looked back there and saw what i think is it, off to the left kinda mounted vertically? there is a yellow wire on the connector, but it is the top right wire, is this correct?

 

[Kinnish]

I've done the mod on my 98XLT....seems to work like a champ!

 

[Robert]

If it reacts the same way as disconnecting the shift solenoid, I can tell you that all torque will be prevented from reaching the front driveshaft. It will still spin when it is on the ground since it has a permanent connection to the front tires via the CV joints/differential but it isn't spinning from the transfer case. Mine has been disconnected for the last four tanks of gas and I have had mine up on jack stands spinning just the rear tires. I am almost through with my MPG tests, just have to reconnect the connnector on the next fill-up and run the next four tanks of gas with the Auto 4x4 connected. Once I am through, if I have determined that I gained any mileage with it disconnected, I will put a switch in line with my yellow wire to make it easier to dis-able the Auto 4x4.

I haven't cut my yellow wire yet so I can't say if the normal 4% torque still gets through or not with the wire cut. I do know that with the shift solenoid disconnected, the 4% doesn't get through.

 

[Yomie]

Originally posted by Yomie
ok, i looked back there and saw what i think is it, off to the left kinda mounted vertically? there is a yellow wire on the connector, but it is the top right wire, is this correct?

Can anyone veryfy this--^ ?

And Robert, where is the shift solenoid that you refer to, that you disconnected

 

[JoshC]

Yomie, i believe you are right. I know for a fact that it was at the top, so if that is the only yellow wire up there then you are fine. Even if you cut it and it isn't the right one you can always just soder it back together.

Happy trails!!

 

[Robert]

Originally posted by Yomie


Can anyone veryfy this--^ ?

And Robert, where is the shift solenoid that you refer to, that you disconnected

The shift solenoid is attached to the back side of the transfer case. It sort of looks like a small starter. The connector is attached to the bracket on the solenoid. It is the only one there.

 

[stadx2]

Hey Guys,

This yellow wire you're talking about bypassing will work, but there is a better way.
This yellow wire coming from the GEM goes to the "Torque-on-Demand" or TOD solid state relay. This relay, when energized, allows power to flow to a heavy duty eletromagnetic clutch inside the trasfer case. The wire that feeds that transfer case clutch power from the TOD relay is a heavier (12-14)gauge brown colored wire. This is the right wire to switch because you won't need to "reset" the GEM by turning off the truck and on again, because you're not disabling the TOD relay, you're disabling the power to the electromagnetic clutch.
The best place to access this Brown wire is at connector C200 located under the driver's seat.
I also recommend using a standard 30 amp automotive relay to do the disconnecting because it is a fairly high current circuit.

I seem like an expert on this because I just finished swapping in a Control-Trac transfer case to my 98 V8 Explorer which of course, had that stupid AWD. Getting all the electronics to work was very educational!

 

[Doug]

Im probably gonna be purchasing a 97 with this sorta transfer case i wonder what would be better. the 4auto, 4hi, 4lo or a BW 13-54.

 

[SWLathrop]

"stadx2" If what you say is so, then I wonder if this is how Ford did it on the Expeditions with the 2WD,AUTO,4HI,4LO selections. If so, I can get my paws on a brand new switch and radio surround place. Guess I'll have to try it...

Come to think of it...The 2001 Sport I just bought has 2WD mode...I wonder what the difference is between my 97 Sport and it? Hummmm...Something to ponder...

 

[stadx2]

Originally posted by SWLathrop
"stadx2" If what you say is so, then I wonder if this is how Ford did it on the Expeditions with the 2WD,AUTO,4HI,4LO selections. If so, I can get my paws on a brand new switch and radio surround place. Guess I'll have to try it...

Come to think of it...The 2001 Sport I just bought has 2WD mode...I wonder what the difference is between my 97 Sport and it? Hummmm...Something to ponder...

Forget about using that switch off of Expeditions. First of all, theres alot more to it then simply replacing the switch. The resistor values in the Expedition switch are different from the Explorer switch, plus the GEM that the switch talks to is completely different then Explorers. Secondly, switch is much larger and will not fit in your bezel.
The difference between your 2001 Sport and your 1997 Sport is that your 2001 has a B/W 1354 t-case, and your 1997 has a B/W 4405 Control-Trac t-case. More simply put, your 2001 has to be "shifted" into 2WD with its shift motor on the transfer case, while the 97 with Control-Trac has to have voltage removed from its elctromagnetic clutch to be in 2WD.

 

[PghBill]

Having the switch that is the suject here piqued my interest. I've read all the posts, BUT ... What's the point of being able to have 'true' 2WD? Better mileage? Having a ride different from the one down road? My 91 XLT 4x4 5spd gets about 18 mpg around town. My recently acquired 97 XLT 4x4 auto gets about 16 mpg. Will the 97 match the 91 if I start snipping and splicing wires and switches?!?
Also, for the Control Trac, I understand that 'AUTO' works something like AWD up to about 35 mph. Are the 4x4 HI and 4x4 LO true 4x4 HI and LO, i.e, full power to both axles.