IFS Heavy Duty Upgrades!

[sport97]

Quick question does Rock Auto have pretty quick shipping?

Last time I ordered I had my stuff in I think 2 days. I was impressed. Which of course was nice, but that was 5 months ago and the parts are still sitting, waiting in the corner

 

[Steeda04SVT]

Last time I ordered I had my stuff in I think 2 days. I was impressed. Which of course was nice, but that was 5 months ago and the parts are still sitting, waiting in the corner

Haha nice, good thing you didn't overnight them.

 

[Steeda04SVT]

Just ordered the Raybestos Professional Grade Lower Ball Joints 5051221. Any of you guys using them already? If so how do you like them so far? Makes a world of difference?

 

[gmanpaint]

Just ordered the Raybestos Professional Grade Lower Ball Joints 5051221. Any of you guys using them already? If so how do you like them so far? Makes a world of difference?

You wont notice a difference per say. The pro grade will just keep working for you longer than the service grade will. It will stay true from install and stay that way for a long long time.

 

[Steeda04SVT]

Can somebody explain the whole passenger side one piece and two piece upper control arm? And the different design?

 

[gavin]

Can somebody explain the whole passenger side one piece and two piece upper control arm? And the different design?

it was posted a few posts back

2 pc arm allows for a better alignment.

1 pc works well enough for a stock ride height, but for those that have altered the ride height (raise or lower via a TT), the 2 pc allows for more castor degree for the alignment to be accomplished.

The one pc design is just an aftermarket part that was made as a shortcut for an easier DIY replacement IMO. That doesn't always mean it is better, just easier.

I would talk to your alignment person, and ask them before hand which they can dial in better, as it really boils down to the individual vehicle and alignment shop.

 

[Steeda04SVT]

Dang, thanks for the heads up. I hate over looking posts that I've been looking for.

2 pc arm allows for a better alignment.

1 pc works well enough for a stock ride height, but for those that have altered the ride height (raise or lower via a TT), the 2 pc allows for more castor degree for the alignment to be accomplished.

The one pc design is just an aftermarket part that was made as a shortcut for an easier DIY replacement IMO. That doesn't always mean it is better, just easier.

I would talk to your alignment person, and ask them before hand which they can dial in better, as it really boils down to the individual vehicle and alignment shop.

More questions is bout the one piece and two piece designs. The one piece bolts up in place just like the driver's side and the 2 piece design looks like it bolts up a different way. So how does that work out? Are there holes there already for the 2 piece design to bolt up? Plus how come I can only find the 2 piece design just for the passenger side? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to learn more about this. Thanks for whoever has the answers.

 

[gavin]

Dang, thanks for the heads up. I hate over looking posts that I've been looking for.

More questions is bout the one piece and two piece designs. The one piece bolts up in place just like the driver's side and the 2 piece design looks like it bolts up a different way. So how does that work out? Are there holes there already for the 2 piece design to bolt up? Plus how come I can only find the 2 piece design just for the passenger side? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to learn more about this. Thanks for whoever has the answers.

the 2-piece is exactly that.
There's the inner arm, which bolts to the frame mounts.
the outer arm bolts to the inner arm.
the OEM part is the 2-piece.
as for only the pass. side 2-piece, my guess is because there should be no need for that much caster adjustment on both sides.

 

[Steeda04SVT]

So if Im following you correctly, the smaller piece is what bolts to the frame and just sits inside of the oem bigger control arm thats mounted to the frame the same as the drivers side? Hence why its called 2 piece?

 

[gavin]

So if Im following you correctly, the smaller piece is what bolts to the frame and just sits inside of the oem bigger control arm thats mounted to the frame the same as the drivers side? Hence why its called 2 piece?

ummm... sorta kinda?

this is the outer piece.
I'm not sure I follow "sits inside of the oem bigger control arm"

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

the 2-piece is exactly that.
There's the inner arm, which bolts to the frame mounts.
the outer arm bolts to the inner arm.
the OEM part is the 2-piece.
as for only the pass. side 2-piece, my guess is because there should be no need for that much caster adjustment on both sides.

I've already got my hands on the XRF outer arm, where can I get the inner arm that bolts to the frame?

 

[gmanpaint]

I've already got my hands on the XRF outer arm, where can I get the inner arm that bolts to the frame?

Is your bad? It is a solid pc of cast steel, and just the bushings go bad, unless it was in a wreck or something. Just replace the bushings in your stock pc if it needs it.

It's the ball joints that go bad all the time, and thats mainly what were replacing by getting the arms with the ball joints. Bushings rarely go bad on these arms, but they do make replacements for them. Rockauto should have the Raybestos bushings for them.

 

[gavin]

I've already got my hands on the XRF outer arm, where can I get the inner arm that bolts to the frame?

I have yet to find just the inner piece anywhere.
but it shouldn't be too terribly difficult to replace the bushings.
there's a thread around here that Turdle made, I believe.
along with the pics he posted in this thread of replacing the bushings on the inner arm.

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

Is your bad? It is a solid pc of cast steel, and just the bushings go bad, unless it was in a wreck or something. Just replace the bushings in your stock pc if it needs it.

It's the ball joints that go bad all the time, and thats mainly what were replacing by getting the arms with the ball joints. Bushings rarely go bad on these arms, but they do make replacements for them. Rockauto should have the Raybestos bushings for them.

It's not that mine is bad, I just believe in the philosophy of overkill with every part I ever replace on my rig. Will look into bushings when I do the full front end rebuild, thanks for the info, appreciate it!

 

[Osmosis]

The extreme inner tie rod with that part # from the origional post seems to be a thing of the past with my google searching, is there an equal alternative?

 

[gmanpaint]

Napa has a HD pro grade line for these parts. Called Napa Chassis Parts

Inner TRE
NCP 2693049

Raybestos has them as well. Look in rockauto.com parts finder for your vehicle.

 

[Brewdays_2]

Well it took 1 year and I have blown my front IFS to hell and unfortunately ruined at least one really awesome 33" MTR Kevlar. So I have been reading this post for a long time and knew eventually it would come in really handy. So today is the day that I placed my order with rock Auto for all the gear needed minus one Tie Rod end that they didnt have in stock.


RAYBESTOS 5001090 (500-1090) Ball Joint $ 46.79 1 $ 46.79
RAYBESTOS 5601061 (560-1061) Control Arm Bushing $ 21.89 1 $ 21.89
RAYBESTOS 4011748 (401-1748) Tie Rod End $ 26.79 2 $ 53.58
RAYBESTOS 5071144 Control Arm $ 85.79 1 $ 85.79
RayBESTOS 5021021 (502-1021) Control Arm $ 77.79 1 $ 77.79
RAYBESTOS 5777035 Rack and Pinion Bushing $ 16.49 1 $ 16.49
RAYBESTOS 4011711 (401-1711) Tie Rod End $ 35.79 1 $ 35.79
RAYBESTOS 5071143 Control Arm $ 85.79 1 $ 85.79

Anybody have this parts setup and 33 or 35" tires and any idea on what kind of maintenance schedule and life of service i can expect this time around?

 

[gmanpaint]

I see you ordered both lower control arms, and one upper control arm, the upper left. What are you going to use for the right upper? 1pc or 2pc outer?

Those ball joints are STOUT!

I cant say anything about the LCA's, as I have not seen them before. I can say that the rest of the parts are great. I have wheeled with 33" & 35" Meats and have yet to have even the slightest problem with any of them in over a year.

Make sure you torque the R&P bolts down to specs after install of the bushings. I made that mistake and didn't get them tight enough. The entire rack moved back & forth, and caused the steering shaft to woller out. Only took a few minutes to happen.

 

[Brewdays_2]

Gmanpaint,

Here is the Upper 1 pcs Raybesto part that I found and ordered per an earlier post in this thread.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1032302

 

[J_Train]

Well looks like rock auto is out of or raybestos isn't making the inner tie rods any more can't find em.