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Intermittent starting problem

99 Explorer 4.0 SOHC intermittent no-start

I have a 99 Explorer sport 4.0 sohc with very similar symptoms. It is been intermittent for at least 6 months. It will happen for two or three days and then go away for a few weeks. It always happens after the vehicle has been sitting 12+ hours. Problem has happened 3 times this week and getting more difficult to start. Today I had to resort to using starting fluid and it started up but would not run at idle. Was able to start it several times after one long shot of starter fluid but it would only stay running with my foot on the gas. I held my foot on the gas at least a minute but when I eased off the accelerator the car died - refusing to run at idle. I reassembled the breather hoses (suspecting the air flow sensor maybe causing an idle run problem) which took couple minutes, and started it again but still no idle run.***update: I believe I injected this problem in green by a disconnected return or vacuum hose)
***PLEASE HELP... IM STRANDED AT HOME. THIS IS MY ONLY VEHICLE***
 



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hermosatrout, your problem may be with the idle air control(IAC) valve. If you take off the black cover that has SOHC on it the IAC valve is on the passenger side of the upper intake manifold. This thread explains the cleaning process. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84220 Yours will look slightly different than the pics show,(yours is mounted on top not on the side) but the procedure is the same. These valves get built up with carbon and such and get stuck shut. They meter the air into the engine at idle, and since it starts with the pedal depressed and dies when you release it that points to the IAC valve.
 






oops the idle problem. But back to THE INTERMITTENT NO-START problem

Thanks albi1cnobi1 but appears that I caused the no idle problem. Indeed if the breather and all the hoses are not connected it will not idle. I found a disconnected hose (about 1 inch diamater) running from the breather near the air filter on passenger side over to driver side underneath the black cover. I reconnected it and now the car runs normal again.

SO I ASSUME I STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM OF THE INTERMITTENT NO-START.

I am making an assumtion that the problem is fuel related since I was able to get it going with the starting fluid.

Per the "Ford Explorer No Start Procedure" mentioned earlier in this thread, I will check this point the next time it will not start:
"5. Does "CHECK ENGINE" illuminate while engine cranks?
Yes: Check crankshaft position (CKP) sensor
"

In the mean time, I think its a good idea to replace the fuel filter. Its at 71.5 kmi and doubt if its ever been done. I bought the car at 35kmi.

Its Probably in need of spark plug replacing also (I bought plugs 20kmi ago but aborted the operation when I was frightened of the spark plug that is jammed against the firewall. haha)
 






The problem I am having is definitely with the fuel system. In the starting sequence, after turning the ignition switch to "on", the fuel pump relay should click (under the hood) and the fuel pump should run (humming sound from the cargo area) for 2-3 seconds and build fuel pressure to the line at the intake manifold. For about two months(Dec-Jan)I listened for the hum of the fuel pump BEFORE cranking. Sometimes having to turn off-on several times before the fuel pump would engage. After I hear the hum of the fuel pump it always starts. I did reseat the relays under the hood but did not replace. The problem finally went away in mid-late JAN and has not returned as of MAY. I'm in Los Angeles so it might be that it is environment temperature related below 55F or so. I think this problem might have first appeared in early 2012 maybe during colder temperatures.
 






intermittent non-start problem

Researching the same issue for my 1994 Explorer XLT with 4.0L
A couple areas to run down appear to be the IAC - Idle Air Control assembly

or even the Inertia Fuel Shut Off switch.

not yet checked these to see if is my issue yet.

I have a new fuel pump installed less than a year ago so pump itself is probably not the issue.
 






Hello, I recently had a very similar issue with my edge. At the end of the day there was a broken connection to my starter. When the car would run the connection would expand and not make contact with the starter the next time i tried to start the car. Once it cooled down 30 mins later it would contract and the car would start fine.

The mechanic I had suggested it was the neutral switch so he replaced it and it cost me $700 and after a 30 min ride home the car wouldn't start. I got the car back to him and after he drove it for an hour and could finally reproduce the issue he started pulling the car apart and found the connection issue.

So if you run into this problem make sure you check the starter since it's a cheaper fix in labor (1 hr vs 4) for the switch which is embedded in the transmission.
 






I had a similar problem. Over a period of a few months my 98 SOHC intermittently wouldn't start. I'd crank and crank and then it would start - - - until the last time. Fortunately, I was at home and had the time to investigate the problem.

I'll spare you the details and cut to the chase. I fixed this by cleaning off the crankshaft position sensor. With a small oil leak and 240k miles, there was quite a bit of material caked on the sensor. I'm guessing that prevented the magnetic sensor from working. I ended up reaching up with a gloved hand and removing most of the gunk. After that, it worked just fine.

Give it a try, it's been over a month and I haven't had a problem starting since the cleaning.

Good luck!
 






Has anyone found the solution? I am having the same problem. Is it a fuel Pump? Something else?
 






Intermittant starting problems

We have a 2002 Ford Explorer and having the same problem that you describe. Dealer and even a private repair could not duplicate problem and no codes. Very frustrating!
 






Knock on wood I think I got it!!!!!!!! Took it to a mechanic who knows fords really well. He did two things. Neither of which was a new fuel pump.
#1 replaced the fuel filter. He said it was really crudded up and with the weird way the fuel system is in these model year Fords. A clogged fuel filter keeps pressure on the fuel rail and if there is pressure, the fuel pump wont kick on.
#2 I bought the truck new. at the dealer they had a special on the LOJACK system but the dealer had to install and aftermarket alarm system. My guy said the aftermarket alarm was a butcher job just shoved in there. he said some alarm systems are tied into things like the starter and the fuel system to prevent the car from being stolen. This one was tied into everything. He pulled out the aftermarket alarm.
The truck has been running great since then. Total for new fuel filter and removal of the old alarm= less that $200.
Every one else wanted to replace the fuel pump so "Maybe" that will fix it.
 






2002 Ford Explorer Intermittent no start problem

Thanks!! Great information!! Didn't believe it was the fuel pump. I'm ccurious--did they do both things at the same time or at different times? Which was done 1st if at different times and for that period of time was your Ford running ok??
Again thank you!! Look forward to your response!!

Terry
 












Thanks!!

Very helpful and thank you!!
 






My 99 E.B. 4x4 had the intermittent no start problem for six months when finally the fuel pump quit. Put a new one in and have had no trouble starting. It's been a year since we put the new pump in. You may need to prepare yourself for a new fuel pump. Apparently they can hang up inside sometimes. Try cycling the ignition on and off a few times when it's in it's no start mode and see if it shakes the pump loose.
 






Thanks!!

Thanks for your reply!! Terry
 






Ok, so I wanted to bring this back to the table to see if anyone else has anything else to offer up.

I have not yet found the problem but I still suspect the fuel pump. I'm just procrastinating with it because of the cost, guess i hope it turns out to be something else.


Update to symptoms, the intermittent start problem is now more frequent..... here is what happens:

Cold, car starts up and drives no problem. After reaching operating temp, if I keep it running, it continues to run with no problems. If I shut it off after reaching operating temp and try to restart, it will not restart. It turns over and will give an initial stutter, but will not start. After 20-40 minutes, as everything cools down, it starts right up no problem. When it does not start, I think I can not hear the fuel pump prime, but then again, a few times I thought I could not hear it prime, it started, so maybe my hearing is bad or the beeping from putting the key in the ignition is drowning the pump prime sound out.....not sure....




I have kept trying to do searches on the problem, and others that have had similar problems, their final resolve has been many different things, ranging from loose inertia connections, bad relay, pump, ECT, etc., nothing definitive.

Anyway, I did replace the crank position sensor and the problem still exists, again, only when its up to operating temp it will not restart until cool down. I have no engine codes either..... Swapped the fuel relay with another one, problem still exists......

Someone mentioned the ECT being bad causing the computer to think its a cold start and giving the wrong fuel mixture and timing..... but wouldn't a bad ECT cause an engine code? And would a bad ECT cause drivability issues also if it always thinks its a cold start? I think the ECT is the next cheapest thing to try but not sure.....

Or, could the fuel pump still be the problem? Could the fuel pump be going bad, overheating and locking up after I shut it off thus cause the no start when hot? Then after cool down it loosens up and works again? Or could it be a bad ECT thats just not throwing an engine code? My concern with just going out and replacing the fuel pump is that it may not be the problem. I have read a few posts with people having similar problems that had already replaced the fuel pump previously, or just replaced it and their problem still exists.....

We just sold the car to my son, its his first car, and we feel really bad that its suddenly having this problem and am hoping to get a fix so he can learn to drive.....

It is the SOHC 4.0 V6 by the way.
I had a FORD van that did exactly what yours is doing. I searched for weeks for the culprit until one day by accident I removed the EGR valve just to look underneath. The manifold was almost completely closed off with carbon at the valve's base. Would start and run fine till warm. Then die till it cooled down.
 






Bump bump anyone solve this?
 






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