Jeep Axle for Explorer SAS

[Dannyboy]

Probably not too wide for the street, you would just need like 4" backspacing on your wheels if it's too wide.

How about a 44 front, 8.8 rear and use wheel adapters for your rear end to run 5x5.5 wheels all around.

You can narrow down that 44 to the stock width fairly easy too. If I were to do it all over again, I'd do it the same way that I did it the first time.

Not sure of who breaks what, guys break 44s, guys break 30s. Not many guys break the 8.8.

 

[SolidExplorer]

I dont think I could narrow the axles myself. Id have to get new shafts and everything too. Thats adding more money then I can spend, but I guess if I want to do it right I need to keep saving until I have the money to do it right.

 

[Dannyboy]

Narrowing an axle is not hard work, I explained it on here in my Hp Dana 44 thread. It can be narrowed to run a stock early bronco shaft on the passenger side.

 

[IZwack]

Are you going to narrow it now? Narrow it right now?

 

[Hokie]

Are you building this thing to wheel at Crozet? A full width SAS and 35's will probably be overkill for most of the legal wheelin' in Virginia. I've ran most of the GWNF west of Harrisonburg with only TT/shackles and 30's.

 

[SolidExplorer]

I wheel on Westvaco mostly. Im a member of a hunting club on that land. Im trying to build this Explorer so I can stop taking my 99 F150 lol

Im thinking I might just go with the Jeep axle.

 

[SolidExplorer]

Does the 1997 Jeep TJ front axle have manual locking hubs?

 

[Dannyboy]

nope, the kit is like $1300

http://www.gowarn.com/front-hub-conversion-kit-2.asp

and not recommended for tires over 32"

 

[SolidExplorer]

So if I end up getting a Jeep front axle I need to get a older than 87 axle?

 

[Dannyboy]

huh?

I'm no expert here (so I should just probably shut up now)

BUT I know there is plenty of guys running dana30s from jeeps, it's an easier swap, you can basically transform your truck to the front suspension of a jeep. (search notajp, and anybody else in the SAS registry, that is all completed swaps)

If you are really savvy, you can weld up the mounts of a 4 link to a dana 44 (search Jefe dana 44)

or you can swap the early bronco style front axle dana 44 with it's arms etc (like froader, my old 94 limited, stico and several other members)
or go leafs (search rockranger, yomie)


The older jeeps cjs DID have lockouts, but they were possibly a different lug pattern and typically leaf sprung.


Here is what you need to decide and we'll tell you what to look for

full width or stock width?

Dana 30, 44 or 60

what rear setup do you want to match?

coils, leafs, coilovers or airshocks?

you will typically end up with either a front axle with 5x4.5 or 5x5.5, some guys like to change the whole rear axle out, some swear by the 8.8 (like me). Some dana 44s come with 6 lug from a wagoneer, and guys put 5x5.5 knuckles on them.

some guys change rear shafts to match bolt pattern

some guys add rear adapters to convert lug pattern to match

some guys move the front axle forward further

also decide your gears and lockers now and work that into the budget, most likely your new axle will be ready for a full rebuild (unless it's like that jeep axle, a '97 wouldn't be in bad shape, but gear ratio might be wrong)

 

[SolidExplorer]

Well, I said that id need a pre-87 axle because the Warn lockout hubs are for 87 and newer Jeeps. Id rather not have to put $1300 into the front axle.

I was going to run full width axles, but im trying to see how much easier it would be to just run a Jeep front axle to match my rear 8.8 (size and bolt pattern).
If I was to get the 97 Jeep axle, do I have to get the lock out hubs or would the 4x4 setups between the Explorer and Jeep "hook-up" right (the dash switch and vaccum im assuming on the Explorer, then that hooking directly up to however the Jeep axle is engaged). I hope you understand what I mean.

It doesnt matter to me if it is coil or leaf sprung really. Leaf sprung seems to be an easier setup and less of a chance to mess something up (lining everything up when welding the brackets and everything up).

If I was to do the Jeep front axle, id keep the 8.8, do an SOA conversion and then add a new shackle and whatever else depending on how much more lift id need in the rear to match the front.






I dont really understand how the Explorer control trac 4x4 is setup. Im guessing there is some type of vaccum that engages the 4x4. Is this how it works on the 97 Jeep? So back to like I was asking above, if that is true, would the Jeep axle be able to be connected and "hooked up" as if it was the stock Explorer stuff (with engaging the 4x4).

 

[IZwack]

Less talk more cutting and welding :

 

[SolidExplorer]

Id like to know what im getting myself into before I just jump right into it.

 

[Dannyboy]

May I suggest you read

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95377

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168674

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168723

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72136

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94815

That should give you several ideas on how to do what you want on your style of truck.

 

[SolidExplorer]

Thanks for the links!

Is there anyone who can give me an answer tho about the 97 Jeep axles 4x4 system working with the Explorers system.

 

[SolidExplorer]

Hey guys, ive been searching a LOT but cant seem to find any axles in my area that will work on my Explorer for sale (Jeep, or other narrow straight axle).


Im guessing the 97 TJ axle will not work?

 

[CodePoet]

I'd consider going back to your original d44/9" idea. 9"s are stupid simple and you should be able to easily get an already setup 3rd and DIY disk brake swap for less than an 8.8 gear swap. I have around 300 in mine and all i need is a set of calipers/pads and maybe some rotors (including the axle and pre-setup 3rd w/ 5.14's and a full spool). The d44 will also be stronger than the d30, and the 9" is extremely upgradeable. Sounds like if they were your brothers you could get a good deal on them too

If you do decide to go with your brothers parts you will want to retain a ford style coil suspension. The 78-79 d44's have cast wedges which can not be cut off. All in all it shouldn't be too bad. You could also narrow the d44 to 8.8 width. You basically have to grind out the weld that holds the cast portion on, then remove the entire part. Requires some grunt work but possible.

Just a thought.

Try a junk yard for the d30, but don't pay much for it...if you look around on some club boards you can get them cheap.

 

[SolidExplorer]

Ya, my brother said hed sell them to me for $400 but I know I could get them cheaper.

Im thinking I may just go with the full widths and be done with it.

 

[CodePoet]

I don't know the conditions of the ones your brother has but I paid $200 for my 79 d44 and $75 for the 9".

Check out fullsizebronco.com that's where I got my 3rd memeber.

Good luck.

 

[IZwack]

Paid $180-ish for my Wagoneer D44.