Jon And Sheri's Vitamin D Wagon

[black91EB]

what about shortening the misalignment bushings a little bit, like so?

Seems to me they wouldn't need as much length as they come with, and that would get the heim in closer to the pitman arm, so that the leverage would be decreased. Besides, if it didn't work, a set of misalignment bushings is fairly cheap.

 

[Turdle]

Since Catfishing is Bryan's favorite outdoor activity, we went out till about 2:00 am again last night. I thought it was a game of casting and waiting, however, last night the fish were "lazy". So, you would slowly drag the bait along the bottom until it hit a sleeping fish. I guess catfish have tastebuds all over their body, so this was kind of effective.
You would feel it get startled, then, turn around to start nibbling. Then it was on.
I hate chicken liver so I used frozen raw shrimp. Funny thing is once the tail is gone they do not like it anymore-

Ok, back to the truck. I am going to heat the sway bar to make a bend, and rapidly cool it in a mixture of antifreeze and water. This should get some of the brittleness out, and, will at least get me an idea of where to go with a front sway bar. I got seasick on the way back home last night.

 

[IZwack]

FYI : rapidly cooling steel through "quenching" often leads to an increase in brittleness and reduces ductility. I think what you actually want is to slow down the cooling process to increase structural normalization - which usually means air cooling.
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[Turdle]

OK, I was head scratching in the garage, mainly because bending the bar is not a good option. ---slap me if I suggest it again.

So, going back to the drawing board I noticed I still have a few 2nd gen torsion bars.

What If I was to use one, cut to length. Then I have some 3/8" strap material I could make legs from, bore hole to match sway bar diameter, slip over the bar, and, weld to ends of torsion bar. voila a sway bar.

Then I could use my present links, if it works I could make nice heimed units.

It might be a challenge finding a bracket and bushing that would work, but I bet a 98-up front sway bracket and bushing is about the ticket.

 

[Albino 94LTD]

That's thinkin with your dipstick!

 

[IZwack]

A torsion bar would work but it might be a bit too "stiff" (high spring rate). One way to counter this is to have longer "arms" on the end of the torsion bar - which decreases the torsional displacement (angle) the bar undergoes for the same amount of chassis roll. But, I have no idea how long the arms would have to be. I think another approach which might be more simple is to browse the junk yard for a sway bar of the right width. While at the junk yard, you might even focus your search on vehicles with a large aftermarket support in case you want to upgrade to a "stiffer" sway bar. Or maybe use torsion bars from a small compact vehicle (maybe the old VW Bugs?).
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[Turdle]

I think another approach which might be more simple is to browse the junk yard for a sway bar of the right width. While at the junk yard, you might even focus your search on vehicles with a large aftermarket support in case you want to upgrade to a "stiffer" sway bar. Or maybe use torsion bars from a small compact vehicle (maybe the old VW Bugs?).
Posted via Mobile Device

Bryan and I were loading up for a pick and pull run as you typed that.

 

[dkchrist]

If the torsion bar and sway bar are similar in size the "stiffness" should be the very close.

Properties like shear modulus and modulus elasticity are very similar for most steel materials.

 

[Turdle]

So, the junk yard was a no go. I did check a few different trucks, but then I just got too Sore, tired and hot so we headed back home for further planning.

I measured and re measured-still needed 3/8" to squeeze the sway bar past the panhard bracket.

SO I attacked the stock bar.
The bolt holding the top of the endlink had a 3/8" thick head, and, was actually all the space I needed.
So, I chopped off the bolt heads, then, TIG welded them in from behind. This made the inside width 3/4" greater, eye to eye.
I got a good plug burned in, and, I did recess the bolt into the hole about 1/4" to ensure good penetration.
Then I flipped the stock bar over, which lowered the ends. I then reduced the length of the home made end links to 5.5" by removing 5" of their length and TIG welding them back together, using a 1" chunk of the removed material as a side brace to the splice. I'll get it all ground pretty and painted for pictures.


Bryan and I took the truck for a ride and wow, it works! Now I can rest my left hand on my knee, end drive this thing with the steering wheel pinched between my thumb and index finger-one handed.

It drives like a completely different truck now by golly. The sway bar even adds a little control to the " sloppy" valved Wild horses shocks.

The rear springs still need to be addressed but I do think I am just about ready to let Sheri drive it now,

 

[IZwack]

Good stuff - and the good thing is that if the sway bar breaks for some reason or another, you didnt really blow much $$ on it.

 

[97sprt4x4]

So, the junk yard was a no go. I did check a few different trucks, but then I just got too Sore, tired and hot so we headed back home for further planning.

I measured and re measured-still needed 3/8" to squeeze the sway bar past the panhard bracket.

SO I attacked the stock bar.
The bolt holding the top of the endlink had a 3/8" thick head, and, was actually all the space I needed.
So, I chopped off the bolt heads, then, TIG welded them in from behind. This made the inside width 3/4" greater, eye to eye.
I got a good plug burned in, and, I did recess the bolt into the hole about 1/4" to ensure good penetration.
Then I flipped the stock bar over, which lowered the ends. I then reduced the length of the home made end links to 5.5" by removing 5" of their length and TIG welding them back together, using a 1" chunk of the removed material as a side brace to the splice. I'll get it all ground pretty and painted for pictures.


Bryan and I took the truck for a ride and wow, it works! Now I can rest my left hand on my knee, end drive this thing with the steering wheel pinched between my thumb and index finger-one handed.

It drives like a completely different truck now by golly. The sway bar even adds a little control to the " sloppy" valved Wild horses shocks.

The rear springs still need to be addressed but I do think I am just about ready to let Sheri drive it now,

Congrats on making the stocker work without bending it, and i'm better Sheri is excited

 

[Mbrooks420]

Letting the wife drive it, eh? That's a big step. I hate it when the wife drives the truck. "This thing is broken" I know it is, honey. That's just the way it is. The Mounty takes a licking and keeps on clicking.

Honestly though, it's looking great. Glad it's finally coming together.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

When's the next date with the top shop?

 

[MrQ]

So you just need the top made and a new stronger leaf pack and this thing will be semi-done.

Semi, because as we all know Turdle is a very bad Exploraholic and won't leave it there.

 

[Turdle]

When's the next date with the top shop?

Hopefully It will go back next week.

So you just need the top made and a new stronger leaf pack and this thing will be semi-done.

Semi, because as we all know Turdle is a very bad Exploraholic and won't leave it there.

What can I say?

 

[james t]

Any time you weld to a torsion bar or sway bar, it will eventually crack and break at the HAZ. Keep an eye on it.

 

[Turdle]

Any time you weld to a torsion bar or sway bar, it will eventually crack and break at the HAZ. Keep an eye on it.

Even if I just welded the bolt into the eye?

 

[james t]

It may take a while, but id venture to say yes. Or, maybe not since its on the end.

Spring steel does not do well with massive localized heat input such as welding. The weld usually holds but the break will occur in the HAZ. The bar has been tempered to twist and flex, not only does the heat input ruin the temper in that one spot but now you have a super rigid inflexable bond on it (the weld).

It usually doesnt work. Have a backup plan just in case.

 

[Turdle]

poo

 

[Turdle]

Well, here's the installed anti sway bar

Bolt plug weld to swaybar

Here is the clearance issue

I know the endlinks could look better. If this works well I may make some different ones with heims, maybe not.


Endlinks disconnect, and clip to these on the frame.