Just pulled codes... Need some help on a few of them

[B94Sport]

I have been getting a CEL every time I drive for a while now, and I just pulled the codes and got these ones:

326: Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) sensor or EGR Pressure Transducer (EPT) - signal voltage lower than expected.

332: Insufficient EGR flow detected.

335: Pressure Feedback EGR (FPE) sensor or EGR Pressure Transducer (EPT) - signal voltage higher or lower than expected.

536: Brake On-Off (BOO) switch - circuit failure or not activated during Engine Run Self-Test.

543: Fuel Pump (FP) circuit open connection - Electronic Control Assembly (ECA) to battery.

Now because of the 326, 332, and 335, I am going to guess that I need a new EGR valve. What the heck is an EGR Pressure Transducer? As for 536 and 543... Should I be concerned about 536? How would I go about checking 543 and fixing it?

 

[mrboyle]

You don't need an EGR valve. The PFE is a sensor that is connected to the EGR tube and is used to measure the pressure differential on either side of the EGR valve. The PFE is attached to the left (driver) side of the intake plenum. It is a small black box with an electrical connection and two hoses attached to it. The hoses are attached to the EGR hose. It is not uncommon for the hoses, or the small tube they connect to, to become plugged with carbon. Try cleaning these aeras out and resetting the computer. As for the 536 and 543 codes, ignore them. They don't mean anything.

 

[elguapodh]

There are only three parts to the egr system. the valve itself (about $50), the vacuum solenoid which opens the valve (about $30), and the flow sensor (about $20). i had the same problem and replaced all three. if you go easter egging for the problem start with the cheapest, which was the problem in my case.

 

[B94Sport]

Originally posted by mrboyle
It is not uncommon for the hoses, or the small tube they connect to, to become plugged with carbon. Try cleaning these aeras out and resetting the computer.

I tried that tonight and am still getting the CEL. I guess I will start replacing parts like elguapodh said.

 

[B94Sport]

Okay one other question... I removed the EGR valve last night and noticed that the large metal tube that comes up from down below (I am guessing the exhaust manifold ) does not connect to the valve in any way. Basically the female connection on the valve just sits on top of this tube. Is there supposed to be some kind of connector between the tube and the EGR valve? The female connection in the EGR valve is threaded.

 

[rionthered]

i have the same problem i code 335 and replaced egr valve runs the same,and still get the same code i have no clue what to do

 

[B94Sport]

Originally posted by rionthered
i have the same problem i code 335 and replaced egr valve runs the same,and still get the same code i have no clue what to do

Did the EGR valve have some type of direct connection to the tube from the exhaust manifold, or did it just sit on top of the tube?

 

[rionthered]

it just sat on top of the tube but the new egr valve is different then the old one

 

[B94Sport]

Originally posted by elguapodh
There are only three parts to the egr system. the valve itself (about $50), the vacuum solenoid which opens the valve (about $30), and the flow sensor (about $20). i had the same problem and replaced all three. if you go easter egging for the problem start with the cheapest, which was the problem in my case.

Any ideas where I can find these parts? I checked fordpartsnetwork.com and they only had the EGR valve. Same story for Autozone and NAPA.

 

[lonestar]

You can get the PFE at Autozone for about $50, or that's what it cost for two other cars I had. It's just a little black box with a vacuum hose and a electical connector. This goes bad and the computer can't "sense" EGR postion. I would try this first.

It may also be referred to as an EGR postion sensor.

 

[Mattbuyshouses]

Code 332

Hello all, I'm so glad I found this forum. I've been trying to chase down this EGR problem for over a year. Ok, so I'm no mechanic and I haven't been too concerned with the problem.

I've had the 332 error code on my '95 Explorer XLT several times. Last year I replaced the EGR and the Flow Tube (broke it taking the EGR off ugh). After running the car for about 2 days last year after the replacement the error code "went away" and I thought I was home free. Just recently the code began coming back. Today I ran the diagnostics and I had a code 327 stuck in memory. After clearing the memory, pulling all the tubes from the EGR etc off and blowing through them to ensure no debris and putting it all back on, now I'm getting the dreaded 332 code again. 327 doesn't come back but I can drive about a block and I get the 332.

I don't believe the EGR itself is bad again so soon although again, I'm no mechanic.

I'd like to email someone a few photos if anyone could identify the components and tell me if/how they might be involved in my problem. They all connect to the EGR in some fashion.

Any help would be most appreciated.

Thanks

Matt

 

[lonestar]

Again, replace the PFE and see what happens.
It should look somethinf like this

http://www.niehoff.com/techtips/n_sen.html .

It may be a little different. I think they went from a 1 vacuum line to 2 vacuum lines to sense the differential pressure between both side of the EGR. Just do a search for PFE sensor.

 

[B94Sport]

Originally posted by lonestar
You can get the PFE at Autozone for about $50, or that's what it cost for two other cars I had. It's just a little black box with a vacuum hose and a electical connector. This goes bad and the computer can't "sense" EGR postion. I would try this first.

It may also be referred to as an EGR postion sensor.

Thanks. I checked Autozone online and the store by me has it. I will pick it up on the way home and see if it fixes the problem. I hope so... I can't take this bad gas mileage much longer.

 

[Mattbuyshouses]

Can anyone identify for me the components in this picture? I know the silver topped item is the EGR valve... what are these other two? One is a silver box (top left) and the other is on the right, black with circular top and wire connection.

Thanks,

Matt

 

[Mattbuyshouses]

Might help if I _actually_ post the picture url:

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/showphoto.php?photo=4032&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500

 

[lonestar]

From what I can see, I think

The "silver" box with the UP arrow is the PFE,
and the round thing is the EGR vacum selenoid

The PFE senses EGR position so the computer can control engine throttle to maintain idle

The vacuum solenoid actually allows vacuum to reach the EGR to open it. It should have one vacuum line that goes to the vaccum tree and one that goes to the EGR. The computer opens the solenoid and the vacuum opens the EGR.

I learned all this by trying to track down a intermittent high idle problem. Replaced the TPS, PFE, IAC and cleaned the EGR, but still haven't got rid of the prob. Anyone else have a suggestion.

Full Story
Dead Link Removed

 

[B94Sport]

On a side note, what is the sensor on the driver's side of the upper intake manifold, near the back? It just has one electrical connection to it and threads into the manifold.... It is kind of built into a hex bolt that is 1".
The reason I ask is, I took that out of the manifold tonight and it was incredibly gummed up, probably from when my A4LD's vacuum modulator valve went bad and was dumping ATF into the manifold. So I cleaned the gunk off of it (now it looks brand new). I figured it couldn't hurt but I wanted to know what the sensor was in case it could have been contributing to my problems.

 

[B94Sport]

Okay, so I had to order the EGR position sensor from Autozone for $49.95... I also bought a new EGR sensor gasket, 4 hose clamps, and 8" each of 1/4" I.D. tubing and 5/16" I.D. tubing. Replced the two vacuum tubes that connected to the EGR position sensor, used clamps on both ends of each tube, replaced the EGR position sensor, and did the TPS mod that is described in this forum.

Started the Ex up, and voila! No more CEL. I drove it about a mile and still didn't get one, which is good enough for me to consider it fixed because normally it would turn on within about 100 yards. I can't tell if the TPS mod did anything (it was off by .2 volts before I adjusted it to .96), but it couldn't hurt.

 

[Mattbuyshouses]

Resolved CEL Code 332

Thanks to everyone who helped. I received the PFE that I ordered on Autozone's web site.

My 95 Explorer XLT was giving me fits with the 332 error codes and I had already replaced the EGR Valve itself, the hoses, the EGR Flow Tube (after breaking it trying to get the EGR Valve off...) etc.

I received the PFE in two days from Autozone's web site. They didn't stock it in any local stores so I had to order it online. $53 and change with shipping in the door.

Two bolts, one harness plug and about five minutes was all it took to give my X it's fuel economy and power back that it had been missing for some time.

I wish I had listened to the posts BEFORE I decided to take it upon myself to change the EGR Valve first. An experience I have learned from. The PFE is much easier and in this case the culprit of the symptoms.

Hope this experience can help anyone else who has had/is having the same problems.

Thanks again to everyone for their unselfish assistance.

Matt

 

[Glacier991]

Although it's been said in about a dozen other posts, for those reading this one as their first post on EGR thrown codes... MORE OFTEN THAN NOT it is NOT the EGR valve, but the DPFE (or PFE depending on the vehicle). Consider replacing it first!!!! It is the compenent that really takes a beating in the system. HTH.

Happy Exploring

Chris