Kert's tow rig 2005 F250 6.0 Diesel | Page 2 | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
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Kert's tow rig 2005 F250 6.0 Diesel

I started the EGR delete this weekend. I opted for the full delete that comes with a new exhaust up-pipe and removes the EGR cooler. After about 9hrs of bonding with the truck, I started it up and found I now have an air leak somewhere after the delete.

I didn't have time to track it down because of Christmas festivities, but I'm hoping it's exhaust related because if it's not it's more than likely the intake manifold, and I'm hoping I don't have to disassemble the whole thing again...

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I'm going to officially call the EGR delete done! I found an exhaust leak at the turbo, got it corrected and it seems to be holding together :D.

Up next is a coolant filter, and toolbox then I should be done for awhile.

If your thinking of the sinister coolant filtration (Sold by MKM) the only thing I would say is that you should take a look at how the hoses are made (crimped to the fittings).
If something was to happen at a later date, you would have to make your own fitting for the heater core hose, it can be done but it wouldn't exactly be just a quick run to the hardware store.
If you look at the dieselsite coolant filtration, the fittings are separate and if you have a hose failure, just undo the clamps, toss a new hose on and your on the road again.
Just my own little observation.

I was planning on making my own kit. I found where I can get the same head as the dfuser kit for around $40 I know I can find all the fittings locally for cheap. Here is the dfuser kit.


Random EGR Delete Pics, Herculinered the Bed, found a Craigslist Special deep tool box.


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A little update.
I blew out the stock plastic inter-cooler tube at the flex joint and replaced it with a metal one out of a 03.

I was having some rougher cold starts and tracked it down to the FICM voltage. I tried the re-solder trick and still had low voltage (30v). I found someone selling a used one with a warranty on it, so I'm waiting for it to show up. If it checks out I plan on taking the truck in to get the latest strategy put on it and have them check injector function.

I got the FICM figured out, I tried the re-solder again and did the resistors this time (I was too chicken last time because the resistors are very small and hard to access, so I just did the capacitors the first time) and it's working great now.

I got up the confidence to clean out the turbo because I was getting occasional over-boost and found this...


I lucked out a found a good used one locally to replace it with and the truck is up and running again.

Wow that is impressive.

Do you think this was here before you got it?

Yes, I think it was damaged before I got it because there was an occasional CEL for turbo underboost when I first got it. I just assumed the turbo was dirty, not chewed up...

i did call the PO about this and had an interesting discussion, but it sounded more like he had someone who didn't know what they were doing work on the truck that he trusted and I got to pay the price...

"New" turbo seemed to do the trick. I just got back from a 1200+ mile road trip for the wife's grandpa's birthday. Truck ran great no CEL's or codes thrown, well except the no egr flow silent code... lol

17 MPG's average going against the wind both ways

Lookin good. I'm having the ficm problem right now. Cel last week. Injectors 2 and 5. Now it's 1-8 this week. Have your source handy for the solder technique? Thanks!

Ya, I've got a PDF. PM me an email and I'll send it to you. Make sure you are careful with the 3 wire harnesses that attach to the FICM, it's easy to snap their retainers off...

I cut the bottom out of the tool box to add a stealth 55 gallon aluminum fuel tank. I used a fuel tank selector switch kit made for the 1997 and previous Ford Pre-Super Dutys so I can now select between the two tanks. This gives me a new highway running distance of about 1500 miles or 1100 mile city between fill ups unloaded... :burnout:

Pics to follow when I remember...

Inside the tool box


Classy selector valve shield I made to protect it from road debris.


Selector switch that came with the kit, doesn't really match the dash, but works and is factory labeled main and aux.


Bed view


Well, sadly the Super is down for a few days. It has had a slow nagging trans leak for awhile I have been trying to track down that I noticed was worse during towing. I found a loose trans line fitting and when tightening it, I managed to snap it off into the trans housing. The closest fitting Ford could find was in Memphis, TN...

I was too frustrated after working hard to finish projects to get down to SMORR I have not yet attempted to remove the half still stuck in the trans.

Truck has been back up for a couple of days. The new fitting came with two o-rings that weren't existent in the old setup. Seems to have stopped leaking for the moment.

Leaking started again when I hooked up to a trailer in tow/haul. Seemed to stop when towing, but not using tow haul. I'm running out of ideas on where it's leaking from...

I found where I could find a coolant filter head and decided to piece together a coolant filter kit. I used the dfuser install manual as a reference.

I mounted the filter head using an existing body panel bolt. It's tight, but I can get the filters off and on with it in that location.

I paid about $20 for the filter head and have about $25 in hoses and fittings. It uses the same coolant filter as other popular kits for the 6.0.



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A few weeks ago I put in a new thermostat and a new coolant pressure cap since they are known to go bad and not hold pressure. Since the cooling system was actually being pressurized now the radiator started leaking between the seam of the aluminum core and plastic tanks...

I just ordered a fully aluminum Mishimoto radiator as a replacement. I'll post pics of the bling when it arrives.