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Knocking/klunking sound while turning at low speed

nechtenkamp

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November 13, 2018
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City, State
Plano, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
2016 Explorer Limited 2WD
2016 Explorer Limited 2WD, ~38,000 miles all city and highway

I have a "thunking" noise that could probably also be described as a popping noise while turning at very low speed. Essentially when turning out of my driveway. It doesn't happen every time - maybe 1 out of 4 or 5 times. I don't hear anything when turning at green lights or when driving over rough surfaces (speed bumps, pot holes, etc.). I haven't yet climbed under the car to try to look for bright metal spots (for example a worn bushing) or to jerk on parts to find loose components.

I've read lots of the other threads that sound similar but almost all include some description of more predictable or continuous sources of noise like wheel bearings or strut bearings. Help! I'm just out of warranty (the CPO warranty only covers power train) so I'm on my own. I've called a couple of the local dealerships to ask if they've heard this story before and no one seems to be able to point to a smoking gun off the cuff.
 
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I had the same noise. The dealer replaced the front stabilizer links they said that didn't work then they put a left front strut in it. Hasn't made the noise since.
 






So sounds like in your case it was the strut bearing?
 






I assume that but invoice does not say strut bearing. It lists front left shock absorber DB5Z 18124 AE
AND BRACKET FB5Z 18183 A
It also says "found strut top to have hard spots" so I assume they mean the strut bearing
I just googled the part number Amazon has the strut for $97 and they didn't have the bracket but they are like $35 from other sources. So they are inexpensive
 
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just looking at a ford site yours will be different part numbers because yours is 2wd
 






Sounds like it’s a loose strut mount. Could be an issue with the rubber insulator but most likely it’s a worn out bearing. Usually you’ll hear a clunking, pop-ing, or a “BUNG” noise coming from the front of the vehicle when the steering wheel is turned to either side.

An easy test is to start the vehicle, shift into drive, and turn the steering wheel lock to lock while holding your foot on the brake. Listen for any noises coming from the front end. You might also “feel” it in the steering wheel.

If none of the symptoms occur while stationary, slowly let off the brake and allow the vehicle to crawl forward. Turn the wheel lock to lock while slowly moving and you may experience the symptoms now. Sometimes it’s obvious which side the noise is coming from and let you know which strut to inspect but a helper outside of the vehicle can also assist.

Once you’ve determined if that’s your issue then you have a couple options. You can replace just the strut mount that includes the bearing and insulator or just throw an entire new unit on the car.

Monroe sells a “quick strut” that includes a new mount, upper and lower insulators, an upper spring seat, a coil spring, and the strut itself. I think it comes with a boot kit too but I could be wrong as I don’t remember for sure.

Depending on how old the rest of the assembly is or if they’ve ever been replaced, sometimes it makes more sense to go for the whole unit rather than just replacing the mount. In the end and on the bright side, it’s painfully simple and easy to replace either one so don’t fret there.
 






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