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Land Rover LR3 4.0L V6 Replace with 2008 Ranger VIN E

donalds

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1999 ford explorer sohc
Supercharger recommend do I :dunno:
 
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CDW6212R

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Great to hear it's all good so far. The 200hp is minor in today's high tech engine figures. The new Lincoln Aviator GT has 495hp and 630lbft, from both a 3.0T and a hybrid motor running together, in the new 10 speed.

I'd love to convert a 6R80 into my old SUV, the 4.15:1 first gear is crazy.
 

enb54

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Have more than 2000 Kms on this engine swap now and going for the first oil change, no problems and just got the Land Rover IIDTool (GAP) going, will be watching the machine and reporting on any problems. The pre-oiler is working like a charm, am very happy with the results of using the Moroso accumulator but of course it was an awful lot of work to research and implement. This engine swap is definitely do-able for LR3 2005 - 2009 owners with the Cologne 4.0L V6 engine. One of the biggest problems was sort of unexpected, and that was getting another "sidewinder" key cut for the Land Rover LR3. Supposedly a Ford Fusion or F-150 equivalent, the local Ford dealer could not cut it (ebay FOB and blank key), so looks like an independent locksmith in Edmonton or Calgary will be doing it, which is sort of a pain and disappointing. Fortunately, the FOB can be programmed using the GAP IIDTool...
 
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enb54

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First problem cropped up on Thursday when I went to Edmonton to get 2 sidewinder keys cut for the LR3, and the locksmith came outside to look at the Ranger transplant. He noticed a few drops of oil under the engine, so we looked harder, and sure enough, the hose from the oil sender "T" to the Moroso accumulator was leaking at the "T". Determining that it was very very slow and that the connections were tight, I drove back to the shop and on further investigation, both barbed hose connections were defective, so obviously they were installed on the hose incorrectly. When I purchased these connectors and AN-6 hose, I asked about the proper way to mate them and was told to just "push them on". It was incredibly hard to do this but we got them on, obviously weakening the hose. The correct way is to use a heat gun to heat the hose a bit and then push on the double barbed connector, which is then very easy. Just for insurance we also added a hose clamp, this could have been a disaster but luckily the locksmith had sharp eyes (and did an A1 job on those keys)...
 

CDW6212R

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Good catch there.

For any future barbed hose type connections, find Push Lok connectors. Those are made to hold hoses made for them without clamps(people still add them), and they are much easier to push the hose on, versus normal barbed ends. Their barbs are more streamlined, with longer shallow barbs, and sharper edges.
 
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enb54

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Push Lock is allegedly what we were using, just had never used them before and the hose we had had a teflon inner part which we obviously cracked by not heating it first, which just could not take the constant warm oil even at a low 55 or so psi. Lucky the locksmith was a stickler for precision (he owns a Mercedes 500 AMG) and noticed that oil leak, at highway speed disaster was pretty close to the project...
 

CDW6212R

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The Push Lok connectors have been around for 30 years I think. Now there are definitely knock offs of those, and so many hose types, it's tough to sort out. It sounds like the hose you used were not appropriate for the Push Lok's.

OEM fuel lines in the 80's relied on the plastic materials, and were hell to install on the barbed end fittings. Heating was a must, and they were just less than hell to install then. I've messed with those enough that I will try hard to never use plastic lines again.
 

enb54

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The Push Lok connectors have been around for 30 years I think. Now there are definitely knock offs of those, and so many hose types, it's tough to sort out. It sounds like the hose you used were not appropriate for the Push Lok's.

OEM fuel lines in the 80's relied on the plastic materials, and were hell to install on the barbed end fittings. Heating was a must, and they were just less than hell to install then. I've messed with those enough that I will try hard to never use plastic lines again.
Obviously you are correct, have rectified the situation by using heat and screw on clamps, just came back from a 1500 mile trip and no problems at all...
 

CDW6212R

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Excellent. Enjoy it and drive it a lot.
 

enb54

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Thanks Don...
Have just sold my Cloyes chain/gear kit and the Chinese knockoff OTC timing tool set to a fellow who is rebuilding a 2003 4x4 Ranger 4.0 SOHC engine so I guess I'll be helping him out on his project (complete restoration) and hanging around on this forum for quite some more time, thanks to all for your help with me.
Eric...
 

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Well just completed the first oil and filter change (Castrol 5W-30 synthetic and Ford Motorcraft filter) after about 4000 Km and the oil was a bit dark, so this was a good thing! Just getting the Nissan X-Trail ready for sale (fixing the rear window defroster) and hoping the LR3 is as good as a Ford Explorer! Getting my tools ready to help out on the Ranger project now...
 

donalds

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Just keep using the ford filter and keep your oil changes frequent
 

enb54

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2nd oil change at 254289 Km (3500 Km from 1st). machine is running like a clock. Sold the original Land Rover block and heads to a fellow who has the same problem, he'll be rebuilding the LR3 engine and dropping it in to his machine in the spring.
 

donalds

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That's for the update
 
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