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Late 80s B2000 Advice

I mean, that is an option, but I want this one running...lmao
There's sockets specifically designed to grab the bolt head in the center, get one, extract the bolt, then the engine.
 



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There's sockets specifically designed to grab the bolt head in the center, get one, extract the bolt, then the engine.
I'll try nabbing one I guess, but what about getting it running? I want her running off her original heart at least once
 






Can you zoom out a little on that picture of the end of the crank. I see the bolt is starting to round off and looks like a seal is toast?
 






Best I could grab, hope that's what you're after

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I think if you can get the motor to free spin, it'll run. I don't see anything other than than bolt that's a problem. That's actually a really clean engine
 






I think if you can get the motor to free spin, it'll run. I don't see anything other than than bolt that's a problem. That's actually a really clean engine
Was a brand new reman with 65k on it from I think Jasper(?) back in 2000, only driven for my guess a year, maybe close to two after since the plate was registered until 2002. Pretty much garage kept from then on, so yeah, surprisingly nice! A surprising amount of electrical stuff works too, including the radio which is fun! So what if I replaced that bolt? So what's your suggestion for getting it to free spin now then? Back to your other clamp thing or whatever for pressure on top and bottom?
 






Put some weight in the bed of the truck and rock it in gear, maybe use a strap and your truck to pull on it
 






I'll try nabbing one I guess, but what about getting it running? I want her running off her original heart at least once
my only worry with this is that if its sat to long sometimes the rings rust weld themselves to the wall so when you get it spinning you end up scoring the wall.. but if youre going to swap then its a non issue as much... this is an issue ive seen w/ barn find dirt bike kinda things
Put some weight in the bed of the truck and rock it in gear, maybe use a strap and your truck to pull on it
^^^ ditto.
 






well, the front 3 pistons as said drained right through after those two days, that rear one still wasn't draining too much. So I'm not sure they're that bad, just real stiff. I'd rather not have to swap it for a whole, but ya do what ya gotta do too.
So throw it in first, and then just like tug repeatedly with the rado? How much weight are ya thinking too?
 






well, the front 3 pistons as said drained right through after those two days, that rear one still wasn't draining too much. So I'm not sure they're that bad, just real stiff. I'd rather not have to swap it for a whole, but ya do what ya gotta do too.
So throw it in first, and then just like tug repeatedly with the rado? How much weight are ya thinking too?
enough so the rear tires get traction. on the motorcycle, i just put a heavier buddy on there, but for a truck id want it to be enough to let the tires grip as good as possible. if not youre just going to be dragging the truck around and the engine wont have as much force to get it to unseize
 






enough so the rear tires get traction. on the motorcycle, i just put a heavier buddy on there, but for a truck id want it to be enough to let the tires grip as good as possible. if not youre just going to be dragging the truck around and the engine wont have as much force to get it to unseize
Hmmm...I gotta move that 14 bolt axle Thursday, maybe I'll see if my buddy can hang around a lil' extra, we can throw that like 200lb sucker in the bed and see how that does
 






Hmmm...I gotta move that 14 bolt axle Thursday, maybe I'll see if my buddy can hang around a lil' extra, we can throw that like 200lb sucker in the bed and see how that does
if not bricks sandbags anything goes putting a heavier buddy worked for a motorcycle haha
 






if not bricks sandbags anything goes putting a heavier buddy worked for a motorcycle haha
A motorpickle and a truck are very much different weight classes lmao
But I'll give it a shot the current thing is I want to nab a battery and try using the starter to break it free
 






well, the front 3 pistons as said drained right through after those two days, that rear one still wasn't draining too much. So I'm not sure they're that bad, just real stiff. I'd rather not have to swap it for a whole, but ya do what ya gotta do too.
So throw it in first, and then just like tug repeatedly with the rado? How much weight are ya thinking too?
up to 500 lbs would be enough. If you have a buddy that can help, one person in each truck. Pop the clutch out in 1st at 5 mph. If the rear tires just drag, keep repeating. You might want to tape plastic over the top of the engine or it will be a huge mess when things start rotating.
 






4.3 with a carb would be a good fit
But ditch the tbi and going carb can get expensive … some 4.3 require a $800 intake to do just that

I love my old mercruiser 4.3 excellent engine. I hate the 4.3 tbi. All that stupid plumbing and wiring what a mess… they are good with a carb and compact
 






The crank
Bolt
Looks to be a 19mm? Just like the 4.0s
If so from the pic it sure looks like a good 6 point socket seated fully should be able to grab that thing, only the top
Corners are starting to round. Make sure the socket is on fully and you keep forward pressure… can always replace the bolt later
 






4.3 with a carb would be a good fit
But ditch the tbi and going carb can get expensive … some 4.3 require a $800 intake to do just that

I love my old mercruiser 4.3 excellent engine. I hate the 4.3 tbi. All that stupid plumbing and wiring what a mess… they are good with a carb and compact
🤠🤠🤠🤠 +1 to this one!!!!!!! most of my 4.3 experience has been solely marine but with a nice carb (imo the weber 4bbl can be a bit finicky...) they run amazing!

if you can do a carbbed 4.3 i suggest electric choke though for a truck use
 






up to 500 lbs would be enough. If you have a buddy that can help, one person in each truck. Pop the clutch out in 1st at 5 mph. If the rear tires just drag, keep repeating. You might want to tape plastic over the top of the engine or it will be a huge mess when things start rotating.
Well, that is an option, but the problem is that it's at storage and they have a rule against working on vehicles there, so if I did something like that, they'd probably figure it out and then I'm really screwed. Just threw a battery in, tries using the starter to do it and all I get is a metallic tonk, tries but still can't. Also, prefer not to try and use the clutch for much when the clutch doesn't so anything, the slave or master cylinder are still shot so that pedal does nothing.
The crank
Bolt
Looks to be a 19mm? Just like the 4.0s
If so from the pic it sure looks like a good 6 point socket seated fully should be able to grab that thing, only the top
Corners are starting to round. Make sure the socket is on fully and you keep forward pressure… can always replace the bolt later
The crank is a 22mm bolt actually, used a good 6 point and that's what's stripping it now
 






Enjoy the sounds, when the radio goes out temporarily is when I'm trying. But anyway, so I guess I need to replace the mc and sc and then try the rolling method, huh? Running quite low on options and I don't like it
 



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Got some new (they're still used but in great shape) handles in, looks definitely better than the prior one, still need a screw for the passenger one since I didn't have a handle before this, but it does work which is good! (Third picture is the old drivers side handle)Also, coated the starter bolts in breaker blast, so hopefully in a couple weeks when I go back to trying stuff I can get the starter off to test it, also filled the pistons with ATF, acetone, breaker blast, and marvel mystery oil. Also did replace the battery connectors which are much nicer looking and feeling, especially compared to the old beat up ones. So, we'll try all this again sometime after my trip next week, but I'm really not giving enough crap to try for a while.

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