LD50 Full-size axle thread `93 Ex

[ld50]

Good info, I am pondering just doing the head gaskets anyway, but man I hate bending over an engine - now I`ll need a darn scaffold around it. My clutch shimmies once in a while, I figure it was the oil because so much was in the housing, it actually started leaking out when I undid the bolts.

 

[badmonkey]

Subscribin

 

[ld50]

Hehe, just realized you can`t take your oil-pan off these engines with it inside the truck. I was thinking of replacing the gasket, even though the leak appears to have all come from the top of the engine but can`t now. Gunna get the underside all buffed out today and POR-15-ated.

Pondering the anti-wrap bar some more, I figure if it is long enough it would`nt bind enough to worry, as long as all the connection points had bushings that could flex a little. I still wonder at the effect of having one tire stuffed and the other hanging, it would put alot of twist on the bushings. Be neat to have some sort of rotating joint in it before the shackle..

 

[redranger4.0]

Hehe, just realized you can`t take your oil-pan off these engines with it inside the truck. I was thinking of replacing the gasket, even though the leak appears to have all come from the top of the engine but can`t now. Gunna get the underside all buffed out today and POR-15-ated.

Pondering the anti-wrap bar some more, I figure if it is long enough it would`nt bind enough to worry, as long as all the connection points had bushings that could flex a little. I still wonder at the effect of having one tire stuffed and the other hanging, it would put alot of twist on the bushings. Be neat to have some sort of rotating joint in it before the shackle..

Go search around on pirate, there are a ton of guys running that anti wrap bar with no bind or limited flex at all

 

[ld50]

I`ve been to pirate and internet searched down anything to do with ant-wrap/trac bars. I finally have an idea for the anti-wrap bar, which will be only a little different than the samsoffroad one. (still iffy on going that route, or perhaps just re-building my spring pack, but my design pleases me)

I also gotta admit that I shouldn`t have bought bronco emergency brake cables without looking more into it. I can make it work, but I think it would be easier to just get a longer cable for the pass. side, which is too short.
The problem, which I`m not sure I mentioned, is that the 78/9 bronco has it`s brake cables running inside the frame, somewhere between the centerline and the frame to be exact. Bottom line is the pass side is way to short, and the driver`s side is just a smidgeon too long, but will work if I lengthen the other side.
I wanna work on the front a little more before I start messin` with the rear again, tho.
~Meanwhile, I do have the hydraulic lines to the rear brakes all installed~


I have my new clutch installed (+pressure plate and throwout bearing) The tranny is mounted in place again and suspended at the rear with a ratchet strap. Obviously I have to wait and see how the tranny will be mounted since it seems that the radius arm mounting point might interfere with the stock support.

- I trimmed some of the engine mount crossmember off and I am going to weld a plate on there to box it in, my research indicated it may hit my axle otherwise. I`ll get some pics up when I start on the plate welding.



I have some confusion on the front axle, it seems I can order c-wedge bushings in 2, 4, and 7 degree offsets, which can enable you to adjust your caster angle for lift, Thing is, I don`t know yet what the angle will be, since I don`t exactly know where the radius arms will sit verses the position the axle is going to be when it`s all together.
What I figure is the best option is to go ahead and install the axle with the old c-wedge bushings and decide from there. In the meantime, I have to get the axle and arms all cleaned up, and I want to replace any other bushings.

 

[ld50]

d44 blasted and painted

..

 

[ld50]

Got the tranny supported with a ratchet strap, I cleaned up and spray bombed it and t-case with Old ford blue engine paint before the re-install.
As for getting the y-pipe off, no way, so I worked around it.

I was going to paint the underside under there, but it actually is in real good shape, so I didn`t bother, anyway it`s a lot of work.

 

[mitch]

nice dude

 

[ld50]

Just playing around with the d44 for a while now. I have the truck sitting about where I want it sitting after the install. BUT, even with the jack stands where they are, the front end is acting as a lever and affecting the rear height. It`s close enough for working some stuff out though.

I decided a good idea was to comb through any Bronco enthusiast sites for info on this axle, and found some good info on fullsizebronco.com. Makes sense because there you have a plethora of people lifting, modifying, and tinkering with this particular axle.

I found out you want about 3-4 degree (*) caster angle on this axle, and when this is achieved, the tops of your radius arms should be level. When this is achieved on the stock Bronco, your pinion angle ends up being just right. Well I don`t have a bronco here, but when I have the caster set, the pinion angle is pretty close. The crappy part is the radius arms are way too low. At least 4-5 inches lower than I`d like to mount them (I`d like the mount no lower than the rear spring mount, 3 inches. but could do 4 I guess.)

To figure this stuff out on the EX:

I have one arm connected to the axle.
I have a protractor to measure degree angle. (cheap mechanical one)
I have the front drive shaft roughly connected to get an eyeball on pinion angle.

First thing I did was set the axle on jackstands at as close the the rear axle height as possible (rear has 235 tires from donor vehicle)
With the truck itself supported about where the finished height will be, everything else can be measured and fit.
With the axle under I dummied the shaft on by putting a couple bolts at t-case and setting the u-joint in the d44 yoke. (yes it`s a perfect fit) There is an inner threaded sleeve inside my upper ball joint hole but it didn`t look off-center so I grabbed something straight and metal and taped it in the holes, tight to one side. (it`s a shishkebab sword if you`re wonderin)

Then I just fiddled around until I had roughly between 3 and 4* caster on the protractor.
(the red pointer is stuck there, it means nothing so don`t wonder)

 

[ld50]

Sure enough, when the caster is set, the radius arm tops will be pretty well dead level.

 

[ld50]

I`d like to use the axle without, for instance, cutting it up to get the angles I want. If I just get a 7* c-wedge bushing it gets me closer but I need probably 10 or 12*, Also this throws the coil spring seat out of wack, angling it down. I don`t wanna throw down over 7 hundred for aftermarket arms, so I guess I will lengthen, cut, and re-angle mine.

First step, lengthening, and this place has what I need:
http://www.bentandtwisted.com/catalog/

Then I can see exactly how much degree angle has to be put into the arms, in order to mount them nicely to the frame.

 

[91 rangernut]

Any new developments?

 

[ld50]

Still waiting on my radius arm extensions, so mechanically, there is nothing going on yet. Finances are improving, just made a ton of OT at work and sold my rear axle and front pumpkin, so that means the pace may just pick up here, unless of course work doesn`t keep me from the build. hoping to re-build my radius arms next weekend..

 

[ld50]

Well I got my extensions, they are a smidgeon more than 10.5" longer than stock, I stuck one onto my radius arm and had to actually grind a little on the stock arm to make them slide all the way down over the stock threaded ends.
I lined up the axle to it`s aproximate location forward and center, I`ll leave the final measurements for later, but I`m within an inch of final specs and that`s fine at this design stage. For reference I measured from the forward leaf spring bolt to the edge of the shaft hole in the axle. To get left and right I measured from opposite sides of the frame just ahead of my old bumpstop.

I borrowed a couple pipe stands to hold the truck up from the front so I have room to work. I dummied in and rested the tranny on it`s stock mount, I may be able to re-use it, but it could hit the forward driveshaft so I might be able to just modify it depending on how stuff works out.

 

[ld50]

The Good news is that to mount them at three inches from frame that much further back, I only need 7* D44 wedge bushings to get myself in the ballpark of having:
(aprox) 4-5* caster angle and a radius arm mount height of frame minus 3".

I have found through research that a larger tire likes to have a little more caster than smaller ones, so I`m reaching for 5* caster ( instead of 2*-4* stock Bronco spec.)

The only other issue I want to stamp out during this, is bringing my coil seats back to stock *. I`ll just do that with a couple of degree wedges similiar to leaf spring perch shims to correct leaf sprung axle angles. I`ll put them under the coil seats.

On another note, I have ordered myself a Detroit Full Carrier locker for the 9 inch, AND a 5.13 gearset. I have a master install kit, but I have found a buddy in the company I work with who is an awesome mechanic, he is going to do it for me for cheap.
I will attempt to do the D44 gears myself, but I`d rather not make a mistake on my main drive system.

 

[zainyD]

How far forward are you moving the axle from stock? I moved mine about 2-3" forward to help with running the bigger tires.

Lookin' good, keep it up.

 

[IZwack]

Looking smashing there ld50 -- I love the attention to details and the cleanliness Cauz in the end, that's what counts!

 

[Burns]

Looking smashing there ld50 -- I love the attention to details and the cleanliness Cauz in the end, that's what counts!

thats the truth.

 

[stuntman]

I love the attention to details and the cleanliness

It is amazingly clean. Great job!!

 

[IZwack]

Of course, all this cleanliness will force you never EVER to take it through mud ever again I for one dislike mud now.