Lift kit or Suspension conversion??

[410Fortune]

So the 95 brackets can they be torched or cut off the frame with a grinder?

 

[DarthPlaydohh]

So the 95 brackets can they be torched or cut off the frame with a grinder?

I was wondering the same thing. Granted I want the least amount of "custom fabrications" as possible. Knowing my luck I would mess it up and my Explorer would look like it was sideways or something.

 

[gmanpaint]

So the 95 brackets can they be torched or cut off the frame with a grinder?

Oh yeah, anything is possible with a plasma torch or grinder. lol

You would have to drill the frame for bolts, for the drop bracket lifts. This step takes away from the "Bolt on" applications the lift kit manufacturers target for mass sales. Still completely doable, just more to it, than a bolt on application with the 95.

Not sure if the 95's brackets are in the exact same place as the 96+. If not, you would have to figure correct placement for the new lift brackets, so the trans cross member is lined up right. More brain activity here, and another step away from the bolt on kits. Which takes away from the average Joe DIY installing over a weekend at home.

 

[Craigerz]

I have a 96 F250 that’s OBD 1. People look at me like I’m crazy when I try and tell them.

I’ve done the ARC to lift with regular shocks. Pay no attention to the rear. That can be done in a few hours with any number of combinations. Leafs, add a leafs, axle over leaf, load levelers, shackles, move the shock mounts and any combination of those.

The problem is getting the front raised that high to match, even if you find a way to TT it all the way up. I have 32s with no body lift and I had to raise it up all the way to keep them from rubbing. So getting 33s without a body lift will still probably rub (and wont be level with the rear depending on what you do)

And if it’s a daily drive there is no way I would TT it all the way up because of reliability issues.

Shocks that advertise that they are for a 2.5 inch lift aren’t going to give you 2.5 inches of actual lift. They are most likely just 2.5 inches longer so they compensate for the travel of whats actually lifting it. You can put the longest shock you want on there and without a spring leaf or torsion bar holding it up it doesn’t matter how long of a shock you buy. Just an FYI before you start buying parts.

I have the same gears and 32s which makes my 3.73 a 3.55. And it is by no means powerful on the road and that’s with a 5.0.

If you’re not going to be off road, 31s will be an easier time lifting is what I would do and no one from a distance is going to be able to tell.

No body lift. Figure out how to TT the front and they won’t rub. Your CVs won’t be in a bind and will last, the rear will be cheap and easy to lift. Gearing will be better without having to re gear it. Still probably want to service the transmission and put a cooler on it or bigger cooler but that’s under 100 bucks.

If you’re dead set on 33s then that’s up to you. Crazy what 2 inches on tire can do.

 

[ProjectAviator]

I ran 32s on my 95 with just the warrior shackle and TT. No rubbing even after putting on my 8K Smittybilt winch.

My 96 Limited had the air suspension. I just replaced them with standard Rancho Shocks. Only problem was the warning message.

Tim