hey just a question...i got a stock 91 with 3in bl and plan to do f-150 spacers and shackles...and just some 31s or 33s. It does pretty good in the bush as is...but as soon as i get a tire off the ground or somthin she almost gets stuck! I dont drive it to much on the road and I want all tires to spin! Is there a front and rear locker that i can install my self to make 4x4in a heck of alot better without changin gears or anything?
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lockers on stock 91?
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Check into the Aussi locker. There are a couple install write-ups on them.
If you're not going to regear, I wouldn't go any bigger than 31s either. With the lift you're planning on you can fit 33s but the crawl ratio would suck.
If you're not going to regear, I wouldn't go any bigger than 31s either. With the lift you're planning on you can fit 33s but the crawl ratio would suck.
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They make it for the front, and I believe the aussie has to install into a open differential, meaning that if you have a limited slip 8.8 you will either need to find a different locker or change to an open differential.
Richmond Gear's lockrite will work in a limited slip differential, but its more $$$
Richmond Gear's lockrite will work in a limited slip differential, but its more $$$
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You could freshen up the limited slip out back, and run it without the extra additive. It would come close to being totally locked that way. You don't have to pull the gears to change out the clutch plates. They could be dropped into the carrier with it still in the truck.
Then add the Aussie up front and you're good to go.
A cheaper alternative is to weld the spider gears front and rear, but DO NOT do that if you plan on highway driving! It will be difficult to steer and it will not play well on city streets.
Then add the Aussie up front and you're good to go.
A cheaper alternative is to weld the spider gears front and rear, but DO NOT do that if you plan on highway driving! It will be difficult to steer and it will not play well on city streets.
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Steering wont be affected when your hubs are unlocked, the rear welded has little to no effect on steering. It just changes how the vehicle corners and tire wear.
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Friction modifier -- which is added to the gear oil to make the clutch plates slip over each other instead of binding up. The rear limited slip gets much more aggressive without it -- but the life is also shorter, as the clutch material on the plates tends to go away faster when they cannot slip smoothly.
Mine was able to chirp the rear tires going around corners, almost as if it were welded.
NOTE: Clutches for the limited slip run around $50 a throw, so use your money wisely. I got a discount on parts and did my own work...
Friction modifier -- which is added to the gear oil to make the clutch plates slip over each other instead of binding up. The rear limited slip gets much more aggressive without it -- but the life is also shorter, as the clutch material on the plates tends to go away faster when they cannot slip smoothly.
Mine was able to chirp the rear tires going around corners, almost as if it were welded.
NOTE: Clutches for the limited slip run around $50 a throw, so use your money wisely. I got a discount on parts and did my own work...
ya i dont think im gonig to be screwing around with that. hmm i dont even know if i actually have limited slip? now if i remember correctly if you lift the back end up and spin the tires...one goes one way and the other spins the oposite? is this limited slip? Aparantly i need to learn more!
doing this...will it affect the life on the diffs? and also i plan on drivin this for the winter and it probally wont be good for snow havin the back end posi
sn0border88
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it wont be posi, it will be locked, or spooled. Posi is more of a limited slip term.
No, it may not do as well in some winter driving conditions.
No, it may not do as well in some winter driving conditions.
bikeboarder
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if you dont drive it on the street much then you should just put a spool in the front and rear. for about $500. but if you have auto hubs you will most likely break them though.
hmm ya well i do drive for about 6 months of the year on the road just to work. who makes these spools? I have warn hubs that i lock in myself at the front. but its just push button on the inside to engage....im sure thats like all other 1st gens?? so do you classify that as auto hubs?
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no, someone must have upgraded your auto hubs to the warn manual locking ones. They are much more reliable than the auto hubs and give you full control over when the hubs are locked.
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And to get into 4x4 with the manual hubs its a two step process. You must hit the button inside the vehicle AND lock the hubs.
If you don't lock the hubs the axles will spin but power won't be transfered to the front wheels.
~Mark
If you don't lock the hubs the axles will spin but power won't be transfered to the front wheels.
~Mark
actually it was an option manual or automatic locking hubs...i read up on that.
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ford actually made their own version of the manual hub, i have them on one of my rigs. they seem to be holding up quite well, 207k on them and they havent broken yet
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Just to clear up a bit of confusion above, the button on the dash (or the shift lever for 4x4, as is the case) shifts the transfer case into and out of 4x4 hi and lo.
The front hubs then transmit power from the front axle to the front wheels by locking the otherwise free-spinning wheels to the driven axle shafts. As said above, it is a two-step process. First you send power TO the axle, then you hook up that power to the wheels.
The automatic hubs use a ratchet system, sort of like the one in your socket wrench to apply power to the wheels. Once the axle starts spinning in the hub, the ratchet mechanism grabs hold and starts turning the wheels. When you back up, it unlocks and re-grabs going the other direction.
Manual hubs tie the axles to the wheels directly with no ratchet mechanism, which means that you have power all the time, forward and reverse if the axle is sending power to the hub (which it may or may not be due to the type of carrier in the axle housing itself, which is why the original intent of this post was to discuss lockers of some type, which transmit power to both wheels all the time).
Manual hubs tend to be stronger than the auto hubs -- first they don't have to depend on some spring action and a ratchet mechanism to lock up. They actually engage a gear that drives the hub. Second, they don't have to unlock and re-lock when you back up. And third, they tend to be made of stronger material (metal) versus the auto hubs which have a lot of plastic or nylon of some sort for the moving parts.
Hope this clarifies the reason for lockers and for manual hubs.
Oh, one last thought -- the transfer case itself... There is no advantage or disadvantage with the electric shift or the manual shift on an Explorer or Ranger vehicle. The t-case itself is of equal strength. Only the mechanism for making the shifting fork changes, and actually the electric one is more positive than the manual one, but due to an un-reliable motor that drives it (see the repair thread on this forum -- it is SUPER!) the electic are sometimes blamed for being weaker than the manual.
The front hubs then transmit power from the front axle to the front wheels by locking the otherwise free-spinning wheels to the driven axle shafts. As said above, it is a two-step process. First you send power TO the axle, then you hook up that power to the wheels.
The automatic hubs use a ratchet system, sort of like the one in your socket wrench to apply power to the wheels. Once the axle starts spinning in the hub, the ratchet mechanism grabs hold and starts turning the wheels. When you back up, it unlocks and re-grabs going the other direction.
Manual hubs tie the axles to the wheels directly with no ratchet mechanism, which means that you have power all the time, forward and reverse if the axle is sending power to the hub (which it may or may not be due to the type of carrier in the axle housing itself, which is why the original intent of this post was to discuss lockers of some type, which transmit power to both wheels all the time).
Manual hubs tend to be stronger than the auto hubs -- first they don't have to depend on some spring action and a ratchet mechanism to lock up. They actually engage a gear that drives the hub. Second, they don't have to unlock and re-lock when you back up. And third, they tend to be made of stronger material (metal) versus the auto hubs which have a lot of plastic or nylon of some sort for the moving parts.
Hope this clarifies the reason for lockers and for manual hubs.
Oh, one last thought -- the transfer case itself... There is no advantage or disadvantage with the electric shift or the manual shift on an Explorer or Ranger vehicle. The t-case itself is of equal strength. Only the mechanism for making the shifting fork changes, and actually the electric one is more positive than the manual one, but due to an un-reliable motor that drives it (see the repair thread on this forum -- it is SUPER!) the electic are sometimes blamed for being weaker than the manual.
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bikeboarder
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This is ONE web site. i dont know if the prices are the best but they have what you need. http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/categories/ford/ford-88/index.html
You shoud have an 8.8 in the rear and a Dana 35 in the front, if it is stock. a mini spool des the same thing as a full spool bit is cheeper and weeker. If you are fully locked and you dont get high centerd you are unstopable.
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