Looking for Help to Repair my Blower Motor/Control Module...

[genchristoph]

:roll:Just two days ago my air stopped working completely. No fans blow at all, no heat, no AC no nothing. The rear fans work but nothing else. I checked all fuses but I can not seem to find any problem with them.

Anyone have any tips on if the job is easy to do or what it may be for sure?

Thanks,

Chris

 

[budwich]

odds are its the blower motor relay.

 

[xplorercrazy]

Or the front blower motor. I'm assuming you have the EATC since you have an EB. Does it look like its working?

 

[genchristoph]

the compressor turns over and the rear air works, but the front air blows nothing, for heat, or AC... The back seat does work. ... The fans just stopped out of now where...

 

[Cobraguy]

Check budwich's post and let us know how that checks out

 

[rcjustin]

where is the relay for the blower motor with eatc? The manual says it should be in th rlay box under the air intake but its not. Those 2 slots ar blanks. I am having this same problem. Also if it is the control module where can i purchase one besides the dealer? I easily find resistors but no control modules for us with eatc. Thanks

 

[budwich]

which relay positions are you looking at???

 

[IZwack]

Get a voltmeter and test if there's positive voltage between the two posts of the blower motor when the fan is turned on. If there is, then its the motor-- if not, then its something upstream. Keep doing the same diagnostic test until you find the fault.

 

[rcjustin]

Get a voltmeter and test if there's positive voltage between the two posts of the blower motor when the fan is turned on. If there is, then its the motor-- if not, then its something upstream. Keep doing the same diagnostic test until you find the fault.

Yep, i did this but got no power to th motor. I am really thinking its the control module but cannot find a replacement.

 

[budwich]

That kind of measurement ISN'T any good.... cause the voltage isn't really across the motor.... you need to measure voltage at one of the leads going to the motor and the other connected to a ground. And then repeat the measurement for the other lead going to the motor. The reason for this IS that the controller DOESN'T switch voltage... it is switching ground plus some resistance.

Anyways, if you are not seeing any voltage at your motor (based on the tests above)... then it has got nothing to do with the motor OR the controller.... its a relay, wiring, or fuse issue.

 

[Cobraguy]

Check and see if you have power to the fan speed controller. It's located kind of to the side and under the fan. You can eliminate the fan being the problem simply by jumping a lead from the battery and see if it runs.

 

[IZwack]

That kind of measurement ISN'T any good.... cause the voltage isn't really across the motor.... you need to measure voltage at one of the leads going to the motor and the other connected to a ground. And then repeat the measurement for the other lead going to the motor. The reason for this IS that the controller DOESN'T switch voltage... it is switching ground plus some resistance.

Anyways, if you are not seeing any voltage at your motor (based on the tests above)... then it has got nothing to do with the motor OR the controller.... its a relay, wiring, or fuse issue.

Sorry to be off topic, but are you sure about the current being carried only by one wire and through the "assembly"s frame?

I'm not too familiar with the Explorer's blower motor but if its anything like the Econoline's then there are only two wires going to it, which is the positive and negative lead. AutoZone's diagram for the Explorer:

If ground is carried through the "assembly"s frame and not the wire, then what is the other wire for?

 

[budwich]

actually, I never said that "assembly carried the ground"... it doesn't.... I said that there isn't necessarily a ground on the other wire because that wire goes thru the controller / switch. Go ahead and measure the wire for a ground.... it may not be there BECAUSE the controller doesn't necessarily leave a ground (plus resistor) on it... especially IF there is a problem there. In the circuit, the motor is BEFORE the controller not after. Yes, it is "strange" but that's the design BECAUSE they switch in resistors plus ground. Thus if you attempt to place your meter on the wire going to and from the motor (ie. red and black leads of the meter)... it will likely measure nothing if there is no ground connection on the black lead for "whatever reason"... however, you will also likely read nothing if there is no voltage input.... so you have done nothing with your tests... hopefully that helps. As a result, when ever you are looking for voltage, you ALWAYS measure one lead to your test point and the other to a KNOWN ground (not an assuming one... ).
Conversely, when checking for grounds, you switch your meter to resistance readings, place one test lead on the test point and again the other on a KNOWN ground.... and hopefully read close to or "exactly" 0. Doing anything else (ie. say measuring for 0 voltage) will be useless.

 

[rcjustin]

wow, i hate wiring. lol. Im going to just jump the motor to see if it runs. If it does thenw hat should i look at next? I ave checked all fuses and when checking power at the motor i did check fromt eh red wire to a known ground and got 12v. But i got this 12v regarless of whether the blower was switched to on or off. The other lead gave me no voltage from it to a known ground. I am kind of determined to figure this out myself now. Hate to spend money on labor when i know i can fix whatever the problem is. But thats the problem. Finding the problem. lol

 

[budwich]

OK... that helps clear things up ... because your previous statement said "Yep, i did this but got no power to th motor.".... and that seemed to indicate that you followed the previous posts "measurement technique" of trying to measure voltage across the motor... which isn't what you want to do... as I have already explained. So now if I take your "new statement" of "i did check fromt eh red wire to a known ground and got 12v"... then you have determined that you got voltage at you motor (of course, this was with your key on)... which means that your blower motor relay operated (by the key on) causing voltage to arrive at your motor. Remember my other statement(s)... "the motor is in front of the control switch"... so switching the control will NEVER change the voltage value BECAUSE the switch is between the motor and ground and NOT voltage and motor... OK. Anyways, it doesn't really matter now as you are almost there. To prove to yourself that your motor works... IF you can... (not sure physically there is space on the connector at the motor)... but leave the wire that you measure 12 volts on connector (PK/W wire at least in my 96 drawings) and run a jumper to the other wire in the connector (which is still connected to the motor ... O/BK wire in my 96 drawing... tough to read schematic) to a known ground... your motor should run at full.... because you are basically bypassing the controller....

of course, you can do your "technique" also (ie. two seperate wires).... my "technique" tests a bit more of the circuit.

 

[rcjustin]

ok. tested it my way before ir ead your smarter way. lol. Pulled blower completely out. Testd it from battery and it ran full speed no noise no problems. All good. Next since i was there already i pulled the control unit out and had myself a look at it. FRIED. You can see a burn spot where the gasket failed to keep the elements out and fried the board. The wire inside the circuit board is exposed. Now im looking for one bsides at the dealer who quotes me 170 for a "kit" that i dont need. Said the kit is included because most people break the plastic clips when they take it off. Anyone know of a good place to find a replacement for a decent price? part # f1sh 19e624 ac and under all that 950301b

 

[96eb96]

ok. tested it my way before ir ead your smarter way. lol. Pulled blower completely out. Testd it from battery and it ran full speed no noise no problems. All good. Next since i was there already i pulled the control unit out and had myself a look at it. FRIED. You can see a burn spot where the gasket failed to keep the elements out and fried the board. The wire inside the circuit board is exposed. Now im looking for one bsides at the dealer who quotes me 170 for a "kit" that i dont need. Said the kit is included because most people break the plastic clips when they take it off. Anyone know of a good place to find a replacement for a decent price? part # f1sh 19e624 ac and under all that 950301b

they are a high failure item. Try an online dealer for a better price. They are not available aftermarket. You may need the kit because the 95-98 harness is different and they made it to fit all years of ex's and tbirds too.


My advice to others who have EATC is to remove this unit and clean it up with electronics cleaner before it fries.

 

[rcjustin]

Ill take some pictures of the damage it caused. It is actually pretty bad and i dont doubt it could have started a fire very easily.

Can you link up some good online ford part retailers please?

I cant find any with this part.

 

[IZwack]

I bought the blower motor resistor for my van from RockAuto (a site sponsor). Look for the discount code in the RockAuto thread:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2079302&postcount=11

 

[96eb96]

I bought the blower motor resistor for my van from RockAuto (a site sponsor). Look for the discount code in the RockAuto thread:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2079302&postcount=11

The resistor pack will not work for the EATC. You need an expensive electronics unit.

Does the board have a discount ford parts dealer or can I post mine?