Lost Speedometer and Overdrive:

[hermitrl]

I came home and parked my Ex last night. This am I noticed my speedometer wouldn't work at all. Then on the highway I noticed I had no overdrive. I recall reading somewhere that this happens when the overdrive calves and takes out the speedometer gear drive?
If not--any ideas on the problem? I really got to fix this tomorrow. I pray the tranny is ok.
It's a 92 Eddie Bauer with the OHV 6 and four doors. 4 wheel drive. Thanks in advance.

 

[Brain]

manual or automatic?

 

[Blee1099]

Check your fuses...

 

[Brain]

On the '92 w/ and automatic, I know that the speedo is cable driven off of the rear of the transfer case, and the OD portion sits towards the front of the tranny.

 

[hermitrl]

Its an automatic. I'll have a look at the fuses in the morning. I have a bad feeling that the tranny quit--but still shifts perfect up to 3rd. I was hoping maybe the cable is related to the shift points?

 

[Brain]

Not in the '92....there is a govenor that controls the lower gear shifts, and the govenor with a 3-4 shift solenoid valve to control the OD engagement. It could be the solenoid.

A possability is that the speedometer cable actually broke completely off or came out and unhooked the electrical connections to the tranny. You need to take a look at the driver's side of the tranny. The electrical connections right in front of the levers should be intact (the solenoids are the lower one).

 

[hermitrl]

Thanks a lot----I;ll check them tomorrow. I do remember backing over a cement curb. I dove so the curb stayed between the tires---maybe hooked the wires and cable. I can't see anything obvious. Thanks again.

 

[Brain]

Just to let you know where to look, the speedo cable comes out of the rear of the transfer case (behind the tranny, right in front of the rear driveshaft flange) and goes out and across on the driver's side, and then forward.

This is a top view, you will be underneath it. The yellow connector with a bunch of pins isn't the solenoid connector. The one slightly in front (to the left, between the yellow connector and Glacier991's hand) of it that goes through the bottom flange is the right one. This one is painted, but it is normally a whitish color. It has three pins connecting two solenoids (one shared ground).

 

[MrShorty]

have you determined why the speedometer doesn't work? The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) is on the end of the cable where it attaches to the transfer case. If whatever caused you to lose your speedometer also caused the VSS to stop working (say a broken speedometer drive gear), then the computer doesn't get a VSS signal, or gets the wrong signal thinking you're always slow, and doesn't tell the transmission to shift into 4th gear.

 

[hermitrl]

Well---it was pouring rain this morning. I started her up to take the wife to work--and the speedo is working!! I dropped her off and no speedo. At a stop sign it is working again. Overdrive IS related as it shifts fine when the speedo is functioning.
I drove it all day and never acted up. Weird. I hope to have a close look tomorrow morning. I will let you know what I find. Thanks for the help so far. I am thinking this is electrical in nature--but a 92?

 

[huskyfan23]

I bet it's the VSS. The computer isn't getting an accurate reading so it doesn't know when to shift into overdrive.

 

[hermitrl]

I took it to the garage this am. It turned out to be the thingy where the gear drive for the speedometer goes into the tranny. It was once metal but had corroded and broke. They found me a used one at the wreckers for 75 bucks----ouch. Another 100 to fix it. I really appreciate all the help here guys. Thanks a lot.
PS--this sounds rediculously expensive for a used part. Does anyone know what this sells for new I tried to look online but can't find a picture of the part to identify and get a price.

 

[huskyfan23]

The metal bracket that hold the VSS in the transfer case? $75 for that?! RIPPED!

 

[hermitrl]

Anyone have a link or photo of the parts assembly in question?

 

[huskyfan23]

Yep.

 

[Brain]

That picture doesn't have the electrical connection....but it shows the bracket better than the following:

http://www.rockauto.com/ref/SMP/SMPDetail2.html?SC46.jpg
$20, brand new from Rockauto.com

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDet...S&MfrPartNumber=7799544&PartType=1179&PTSet=A
$29, brand new from Checker

 

[huskyfan23]

Yeah, I think that one's for a manual tranny, but it's the same idea. $100 labor is also a huge rip.

 

[hermitrl]

You're right--it's identical to those pics. The **** is gonna fly tomorrow. Gonna check the dealer tomorrow to make sure---then some heads are gonna roll.

 

[Brain]

There are only two options for the part: dealer installed cruise or factory installed cruise control.

I am still working on my truck ('92 EB 4X4 automatic - Project Frankentranny), and I was just under there and it looks exactly like the picture (with a nylon gear that pulls off the right hand side). It is inserted in the back of the transfer case right in front of the rear driveshaft flange, like I said.

The problem with stealerships is that they have to markup all parts by something like 300% and charge at least an hour or two for labor. They have to charge for the service consultant (service sales, who might be on commission), the diagnostic, the parts counter person, the actual wrench turner, the occupied bay, the gas/electricity.....

That's one reason I keep having to buy tools....I've had too many costly experiences with stealerships. Case in point -> I've been charged (long ago) for resetting the base timing during a tuneup, but the timing isn't adjustable - not at all!

All it takes is some information, the will to get dirty, a few tools, and some time. After all, if it's broken, what's the worst you can do...break it? We are here to help with the first thing, as I think we've all been at the mercy of a stealership before. At least the issue is fixed.

 

[hermitrl]

Thanks Brain--I do know my way around vehicles---and could have found the problem with a little work--but it was wet, cold, and just didn't have the time. So I took it to a local garage. He spent an hour---diagnosing and replacing the part--plus around 15 minutes sending his guy to the wreckers to remove the used part.
I don't mind paying for work done---just don't blatantly rip me off thinking I won't find out and say anything.
I'll check to see what the wrecker charged for the part, see what it cost new and go from there. I figured something was hinky when the other mechanic asked if he was sure it was 175 bucks total or 125. I'll see tomorrow. Thanks again for the help---this is what makes this site so valuable to once in a while problems like this.