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Loud bang when 4x4 is on

Okay! How about in width? When i pull shaft out and in. About 3/16" is when i turn shaft head around and left right etc.


Hubs off was no banging. Does that tell anything because axles was free and 4X4 was only in axles not wheels?


Now rear left brake stalls on and car wont move easily 2wd in parking slot or car is side first...

In Finland people says: when you buy ford, you get place on heaven. Too much pain on earth already.
 



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Haha, yeah, when you buy ANY 20 year old vehicle, you get place in heaven! ;)

Karpov, the play in axle would be side to side when you are looking at it. 3/16", 1/8", it's okay. The axle shaft can be pulled out, there is nothing holding it in. Not to worry on that.

I would bet money that your problem is hubs. Sure, it's possible to have similar symptoms from transfer case, u-joints, etc. But much less likely, less common. Auto hubs are guaranteed to go bad! They do not last forever! All of them.
With this problem, you should look at what is the most probable cause, not the rare cause. These transfer cases rarely fail.

I heard a saying once: If you hear hoofbeats, assume a horse is coming, not a zebra. ;)
 






I heard a saying once: If you hear hoofbeats, assume a horse is coming, not a zebra. ;)

l Love that! i will use that! :salute:

karpov,the milemarker hubs may be30% cheaper but the warn hubs i suggested will last longer than that vehicle. You will be able to use them on your nxt 4x4. No one has ever broken one of those, they are actually for jeep rear axle but will fit on our D35 front. I run them on my 94 as we speak.
 






Haha great saying!

Valid when you listen engine noises too...



http://www.ebay.com/itm/15003-65-Automatic-To-Manual-Locking-Hub-Conversion-Kit-Ford-Mazda-90-97-/200998943294

How about that mark?


Milemarkers/warns with install kit (i need spindle nut tool too) where pretty expensive when they ship there but these are pretty cheap.

I know cheap is cheap but car is not offroad use for me.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Freilaufnaben-fur-Ford-Explorer-90-97-Ranger-90-97-/250360934319?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item3a4aacafaf there too?


Is install kit different on different marks?
 


















I think both links are the same hubs, the german ebay seller may charge less shipping than the US, but the german postal system has degenerated since privatization. the German seller does not include the conversion kit.
 






I went and looked at both links again, to see if they are the same. Maybe they are, with private rebranding, but i think I've at least heard of AVM, the German brand...
But what got me was, the Rugged Ridge brand has a photo of the conversion kit lockout nuts, and they're RUSTY! How lame is that! :bsnicker:
For that reason alone I would not buy from them!
 






maybe they are OLD STOCK hahaha
 






I asked by email those avm hubs.

They INCLUDE assebly/conversion kit!


Only tool is missing.


Edit: now i finally ordered them, 17 dec should be arrived.


Is spindle nuts hard to tighten? Can i made myself with same size socket (cut) to fit?


Its not nice to order only tool from usa and it costs money....shipping...taxes..-
 






Yesterday was the first time I'd driven the '94 I bought not long ago any significant distance or at speed on snow covered roads. There were a few issues I came across after putting it into 4 wheel drive, some of which were odd sounds and behavior, which is why I'm now watching this thread. Engaged 4 wheel drive and heard some pops/bangs which were concerning so disengaged 4 and tried again, heard again but this time also felt strong pull to left, disengaged and engaged again, still getting some occassional pops etc, but not as often. My first suspicion was auto-hubs bad/going bad. Just wish they would have happened while it was still warmer outside, single digits to sub-zero is NOT inviting to work outside!
 






Edit: now i finally ordered them, 17 dec should be arrived.


Is spindle nuts hard to tighten? Can i made myself with same size socket (cut) to fit?


Its not nice to order only tool from usa and it costs money....shipping...taxes..-
Great that you ordered hubs!
It's not too hard to tighten nuts - if you have the correct tool!
It should look like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OTC-Lock-Nut-Socket-7157-/230893814431?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

There is a procedure to tightening, and you should also use a torque wrench to do it.
 






Now hubs are in my table.

How about, does they fit /can i install straight to old ones if i not need locking option yet?

Because i dont get that tool soon. So does it fit and work on normal 4x4 without any changes?
 






Well, it may 'fit', but it won't work, and could possibly damage your brand new hubs.
Wait until you have the proper conversion kit.
 






Okay.

Conversion kit included it.

Only special spindle nut socket needed.

Or i do it normal same size widht socket etc
 












Ranger X is correct, wait until you have the tool before installing your hubs. He is also correct that the first tool is better than the second, but the second tool works just fine you just have to be more precise in torquing it down.

I can't find the specific thread, but it should in a sticky from Wood1's(?) TTB post explaining the proper sequence for torquing down the spindle nut so you won't blow bearings are break other parts. The ranger station site may have it as well. It is simple and easy and a must if you don't want to continually revisit this project.
 






Karpov, the manual hubs fixed my loud banging issue, probably will yours also.
 






Ranger X is correct, wait until you have the tool before installing your hubs. He is also correct that the first tool is better than the second, but the second tool works just fine you just have to be more precise in torquing it down.

I can't find the specific thread, but it should in a sticky from Wood1's(?) TTB post explaining the proper sequence for torquing down the spindle nut so you won't blow bearings are break other parts. The ranger station site may have it as well. It is simple and easy and a must if you don't want to continually revisit this project.

I've followed the "proper" method in the past, nearly breaking my fingers/hand when the socket "cams" out while torquing the outer nut. What I decided to do last time it was apart, was to follow the proper procedure/torque on the inner nut, which is what sets the pre-load on the bearing. I then tighten the outer as much as I am comfortable doing with out risking injury. Then, while leaning into it with all my weight, I hit it with a quick rip on the impact gun. Seems to work fine.
 



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Finally i installed hubs.

All went pretty fine but same problems that messages below.

I but bearing adjusting nut about specification tight but wheel doesnt spin so easy what it spins on original adjusting nut. And if i loose nut little more its too loose on my mind.


Second nut will also tighten bearing too much if i try tighten it even close to specifications.

But they are in and let's see when i go to drive. One day maybe when i can raport because starter is bad now and new parts come tomorrow i hope so.
 






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