Low fuel pressure at ignition on, lower than spec running

[bwryan]

Greetings all. I've searched the forum and still unclear on next steps. My '94 Explorer (5-speed, 190K miles) has been getting harder to start, worst when warmed up but also when cold, runs great once started. No codes, and KOEO and KOER tests reported no issues. Went ahead and replaced fuel pump relay and ECC relay, as well as various other inexpensive and easy to replace bits (crankshaft sensor, TPS, IAC valve). Finally got a pressure test kit, cycling ignition a dozen times it wouldn't get above 6 PSI then dropped back to zero. Once running, it held steady at 27 PSI. Anything else to check before bowing to the inevitable and dropping the tank? Thanks, Brian

 

[Turdle]

You are on the right track.

Any thoughts on just cutting an access panel under the rear seat? Survey says it's ok to do this.

How to: - 1st Gen Gas Tank Fuel Pump Access Panel

After a few were talking about the wonderful task of getting the fuel pump and float out of the gas tank in a explorer. I also just love doing this so me and my dad have created a easy solution that we have now used in three of our four first gen explorers. We have cut out the floor above the...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[410Fortune]

36 psi is spec I like to see 36-42
Not 30-36

Change pump strainer and filter

Bosch pumps are made in Germany and they are oem
When they are not available (supply chain issues) the made in USA Carter or
Ac delco will do

Many of us cut access panels… so much easier then dropping the tank

Access panel a little odd on the explorer (compared to Ranger or bronco ii) but if you plan to keep this truck for a long time it will be very handy to have

 

[bwryan]

Sounds like y'all are in agreement that the pump assembly needs to be gotten at. While I like the idea of the access hole, I'm not comfortable at the idea of cutting right above the tank, especially when I don't know what's going on around the access cover. I guess I'll go ahead and drop the tank, and maybe while it's down go ahead and cut a hole so I never have to do it again. But I'll take a look once I'm underneath, maybe if I can get a welding blanket between the tank and the floor I'd be willing to give cutting a shot. Appreciate it.

 

[410Fortune]

Read the threads about Cutting, lots of pics and details about how and where to cut

It can easily be done safely..

 

[massacre]

I didn't see it mentioned, but have you replaced the fuel filter?

 

[bwryan]

I didn't see it mentioned, but have you replaced the fuel filter?

I actually hadn't. From the outside at least it looked like it had been replaced fairly recently. I also failed to mention that when I'd listened to the pump kick on, it sounded pretty rough. Anyway, I went ahead and dropped the tank, it wasn't too bad a job. The retaining ring was almost entirely rusted away, and the pump was a genuine Ford part so I'm guessing it's original. So at 190K miles it was probably time for it to retire. BTW, I ordered replacement straps and they aren't quite right. They're Dorman and I verified the part number is supposed to be for this application. I can slightly re-bend one to work for the one holding the tank, but the one that attaches to the skid plate is shorter, while the straps I got were identical.

 

[410Fortune]

I used Dorman strap once I had to drill a new hole because it was wrong length

 

[massacre]

Would either of you happen to have a part # for those straps?
I need to replace my straps in order to get an inspection sticker

Thanks!

 

[bwryan]

Would either of you happen to have a part # for those straps?
I need to replace my straps in order to get an inspection sticker

Thanks!

Dorman Part # 578-134

As I noted, the longer one that fully goes around the tank was fine, but the shorter one that goes over the tank and attaches to the skid plate wasn't, and would need some modification. I ended up reusing my original for the shorter one, which was still in good shape.