Lower Control Arm Assy's

[Cobraguy]

I need new lower ball joints. Might as well do them all while I'm in there with things torn apart. Question: does anyone have any experience with the aftermarket lower control arms available? I see them from Dorman and Spicer. I like the idea of replacing the entire control arm in order to get new bushings. With over 100K, it sure couldn't hurt to have new bushings. But I don't want to throw on a cheap, flexible piece of crap either. Any insight would be appreciated.

 

[carlover]

Im fairly sure they all just use the stock ford lower with thier Bj's in them. At least thats the case with the few ive seen. Try Fastpartsnetwork.com for OEM lowers at a good price.

 

[Steeda90GT]

So is it worth it to just buy the lower control arm? I see them for like $70 a piece. Usually in the Mustang world, nobody replaces ball joints, just the whole arm because it's easier.

 

[techieman33]

The new ford parts are only $92 for the right and $94 for the left for that price I'd rather have the ford replacements, I haven't heard to many good things about dorman, mainly that they're cheap chinese parts.

 

[Steeda90GT]

So what is involved in removing/installing these control arms?

 

[gijoecam]

Releasing the tension on the torsion bars is the toughest part (well, that and getting the bars out of the control arm itself)...

Personally, unless the lower arms are bent or broken, I'd simply have the old bushings pressed out and new ones pressed in, and since you're gonna do that off the car with a press anyways, do the joints while you're at it.

Although, admittedly, for $100/side, it's less hassle to use new parts... It's just a matter of how valuable your time is...

-Joe

 

[Steeda90GT]

Well if you remove the LCAs to install the balljoints, why wouldn't you just replace the entire arm? Saves time on messing with the balljoint, plus you get new bushings.

What's involved in releasing the tension on the torsion bars? How about reinstallation?

 

[techieman33]

Well if you remove the LCAs to install the balljoints, why wouldn't you just replace the entire arm? Saves time on messing with the balljoint, plus you get new bushings.

What's involved in releasing the tension on the torsion bars? How about reinstallation?

You don't remove the lower control arm to replace the ball joint, you do have to take the spindle off though. I'm not sure about releasing tension on the bars, but one of the many torsion bar threads should explain it.

 

[ws65]

techie...I think Steeda is replying to joe in that joe mentioned just pressing out the bushings, but that looks like it involves removing the lca, hence Steeda's question about the torsion bar...I too am interested in this since I have to replace my lbj's; I looked at my bushings and they do look a bit worn (I see some small cracks)...now, since I do see some cracking, how critical is this going to be over the next few years for good operation. I'm kinda with Steeda on this one, but if the bushings aren't that big a deal for safe, reliable operation, then I would rather get the Moog lbj's and be done with it...else, a whole new lca that has new bushings and ball joint already in...what to do?

 

[Steeda90GT]

Thanks for backing me up in clarification ws65. Typically in the Mustang world we just replace the entire LCA because it's much easier, takes less time, and actually comes out to the same price (when factoring balljoints, bushings, etc)

Of course with Mustangs they have coil springs, so you could just undo the LCA and SLOWLY lower it off with a jack till the spring just falls out.

 

[96eb96]

Thanks for backing me up in clarification ws65. Typically in the Mustang world we just replace the entire LCA because it's much easier, takes less time, and actually comes out to the same price (when factoring balljoints, bushings, etc)

Of course with Mustangs they have coil springs, so you could just undo the LCA and SLOWLY lower it off with a jack till the spring just falls out.

same with a thunderbird too. the moog arms are $58 and you get 2 new bushings(strut and body) and a ball joint. By the time the ball joint is gone the bushings are usually toast too, and there is no savings when you buy both, let alone shop labor rates.

 

[ws65]

I here ya Steeda, I used to have a 97 Mustang Cobra that I did all the suspension work myself, pretty easy...damn I miss that ride Anyway, the question still is, are the bushings on the control arm a big deal? As I stated before, if the bushings aren't that big a deal, then just replace the ball joint (mine are showing signs of wear/small cracking, but no squeeks or anything harsh sounding that I can tell), BUT, if the bushings are a big deal, then is it better to just replace the whole arm with the new bushings and ball joint already in it, or press in new bushings and ball joint? Either way, it seems you would have to remove the control arm. So which is it vets...just ball joint, just bushings and ball joint, or whole control arm? And if the control arm does have to come out, Steeda's torsion bar question comes back again...what to do about thr torsion bar and control arm assembly?
My thinking is this, if the bushings are a big deal, I might just keep my control (since I know it isn't a flexible pos) and press in the bushings...am I correct Explorer Vets?

 

[Steeda90GT]

Yeah chime in and let us know what's involved with removing the torsion bars. I'd rather bolt on a set of new LCAs then monkey around with my rusty, broken balljoints.

I did my passeneger side upper balljoint and it took like 2 hours! (the thing was caked on with rust and debris)

 

[techieman33]

Here's a thread that explains it, it's for the purposes of doing a torsion key flip for lowering, but it explains the process of relieving tension on the bars. And since he didn't go over removing the bars from the control arms, do this while the control arm is still in the truck. You'll need a long piece of pipe, long enough to come out past the bumper, and then start pounding away with a sledge, it'll come out eventually.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142973&highlight=remove+torsion+bars

 

[ws65]

Here's a thread that explains it, it's for the purposes of doing a torsion key flip for lowering, but it explains the process of relieving tension on the bars. And since he didn't go over removing the bars from the control arms, do this while the control arm is still in the truck. You'll need a long piece of pipe, long enough to come out past the bumper, and then start pounding away with a sledge, it'll come out eventually.

techie, where's the link to that thread?

 

[techieman33]

sorry about that, it's in my above post now

 

[ws65]

No worries

 

[Steeda90GT]

So I'm ready to buy LCAs. Where should I go? Who has the best price?

 

[Turdle]

Releasing the tension on the torsion bars is the toughest part (well, that and getting the bars out of the control arm itself)...

Personally, unless the lower arms are bent or broken, I'd simply have the old bushings pressed out and new ones pressed in, and since you're gonna do that off the car with a press anyways, do the joints while you're at it.

Although, admittedly, for $100/side, it's less hassle to use new parts... It's just a matter of how valuable your time is...

-Joe

Joe
Have you ever tried to press out the lower control arm bushings on a 2nd gen? I found it nearly impossible, unless I had a angled--32" long pusher bushing--I could find no safe way to press em out in my shop press.
Please share your tip--

By the time you price bushings, ball joints and time, 100 per side is a bargain. I got mine at orielly. The ball joints looked to be a very good unit.