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Lowering keys




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FYI, the body is not perfectly hung(height) on the frame. The suspension needs to be perfectly level for best handling. The best place to set the ride height is by the front bolts of the lower control arms. Make those the same height, and the suspension will be the same height left/right.

You cannot tell a slight difference visually if each fender is not identical. Who goes around with a measuring tape etc? I care more about handling than the perfection of a fender height. Good luck, and I have had the lowering keys since last year. They are a good deal to avoid altering the OEM part.
 






FYI, the body is not perfectly hung(height) on the frame. The suspension needs to be perfectly level for best handling. The best place to set the ride height is by the front bolts of the lower control arms. Make those the same height, and the suspension will be the same height left/right.

You cannot tell a slight difference visually if each fender is not identical. Who goes around with a measuring tape etc? I care more about handling than the perfection of a fender height. Good luck, and I have had the lowering keys since last year. They are a good deal to avoid altering the OEM part.

Where are these bolts? I would like to check it on my vehicle.


And 29.5"!!! WOW, if I got anywhere near 30" I'd be happy lol! I did the key flip and only got 31.5". SO LAMMMEEE...my explorer was meant to be lifted lol.
Very nice pics man, your explorer looks sick.
 






The tire diameter is big for lowering, try a 29" or shorter tire.

Note the holes to either side of the jack stands, those are the front lower control arm holes. Mine are near 8.25" off of the ground. My 99 Limited is well over 9.5" there.
 

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The tire diameter is big for lowering, try a 29" or shorter tire.

Note the holes to either side of the jack stands, those are the front lower control arm holes. Mine are near 8.25" off of the ground. My 99 Limited is well over 9.5" there.

Ahhh ic, gotcha. Gonna go measure mine...
 






So I went and got it aligned today.. Just about the most legitimate shop in Dallas, used them many times before. They tell me that they HAVE to stretch the cross member because they cant get enough out of my camber adjusters. They want $340 more to pull this off on top of the alignment. I tell him hell no and get it as close as he can.

When he is done he walks in and goes ya it definitely needs to be stretched. These tires and wheels cant stand anything but a perfect 0 degree alignment. So I ask how far its off because it looks fine and has been driving fine.

3/8ths of a degree... What a dick!
 






Well you'd like negative camber, and the OEM spec calls for zero or positive camber. I have one spindle on one truck which seems to be bent just enough that they can't get a good alignment. It wears tires fine though, watch yours carefully. Rotate tires regularly.
 












What size rear blocks did you end up going with? are you running the same shcoks? Looks awsome man!:thumbsup:
 






I went with 2" only because that was the biggest I could find locally and I didn't want to wait any longer to do it. I really wanted 3" blocks however my X has always had a saggy ass, especially while driving, and I am pretty happy how it turned out. If I did it again I would get 2.5" blocks with the wheels I currently have.

My shocks are stock. I have been looking at toxic shocks and Summits brand of sport truck shocks. I don't need them, but stiffer would be nice on the highways I drive.
 












Thanks for the info.. I'm looking to do this but I still want (somewhat) of a decent ride. Did you get your camber adjusters form the allignment shop or local parts store. Sorry to ask so many questions but I want to do this right the first time.
 






Oh, and I'm by no way new to suspension mods....Torsion bars however throw me for a loop. I have an 85 f150 with a 7/9 drop and an 88 with a SAS and 10" of lift so I'm no rookie:)
 






I put the camber adjusters on when I replaced the ball joints last year so I did not have to mess with them this time around. I got mine from Summit racing and I think they where like $30 a side.

The ride now is not any different from stock in my opinion. If anything it is just a little softer in the front but not bad at all. I am not running bump stops in the front currently and I have not noticed anything binding or hitting the frame. The bump stops in the rear are cut down half way. They would hit the axle before I cut them when going over speed bumps.

I have a lowered Camaro and VW also. I lifted my old Jeep as well. By far the T bar front end is the easiest to setup I have done so don't let that bother you.
 






Got some parts on the way...:thumbsup:Thanks again.
 






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