MAD CLUTCH PROBLEMS!!! | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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MAD CLUTCH PROBLEMS!!!

well guys, the damn clutch went out again on my rig!!!!!! :fire: :fire: :fire: :fire: :fire: :fire: :mad: :mad: :fire: :fire:

This time around, I have fluid in my reservior still, and the only fluid underneath is oil(from a suspected rear main seal leak). That **** has been there for a while so I don't think it is clutch fluid. I can't get the damn thing into gear. The clutch pedal, when depressed very slowly, is stiff like normal for an inch or two of depression, then it will fall to the floor at a certain point and sound like its pushing air or some crap. I suspect it is the slave again. This pisses me off highly cuz I aint got too much cash these days, and I have grown so lazy I have been hardly working on the truck ever lol :rolleyes: . I guess she didn't like the neglect so she decided to pull a fast one on me :confused: That ***** better watch it or else she'll get sold :eek:

Annnnyways, I'm pretty sure its the slave, what do you guys think...could it be the master? Additionally, rereading this thread has brought to my attention that the last time I removed the slave, I basically ripped the **** outta the clutch line fitting that sticks into the spider clip fitting of the slave. this is going to screw me over. Should I just make things simple, and rip the crap out of this one and by a new clutch fluid line? Hmmm, maybe I could go custom steel braided...I would like that!!! Could I go through summit or something and get different fittings and adapters to use steel braided?

Man I'm seriously giving some thought to a C4 swap, gimme some advice here guys :D
 



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That sucks. I read this whole post. Mine has troubles going into all gears. I have heard it is related to the fingers on my clutch plate. I heard they get worn and don't work as well when they are old. Mine only has troubles when it is warmed up. I put it in used after I put in my manual, but now I am thinking it could be something to do with the bleeding? Any more info on the bleeding proceedure? My pedal is stiff, almost too stiff. Ipozestu- can you give a more thoruogh explation of the bleeding proceedure to get some pressure?

Josh- So would you not reccomend the centerforce?
 






as far as I remember, (same thing as the manual says i think) you have one dude open the bleeder valve, then you push down the pedal, then the dude closes the valve, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc x a million...

Guys, no offense, but after I fix this clutch, I'm seriously just thinking of tossing on some rear fiberglass, sprucing up the interior, completing the rear wheelwell tubbing ****, taking care of everything else minor, and selling the biotch and gettin a !eep. I know it goes against everything I believe in, but it would be SOO much more practical. I mean, think about it...my exploder is never gonna be an awesome prerunner cuz its a sport shorty, and it would only be a good crawler if I SAS'd the *****(which would be a PITA) and there is SOOOO much more aftermarket support for them damn !eeps its not even funny. I'm probably gonna get :fire: for saying all that, but what do you guys honestly think?

Oh and about the clutch...is there a possibility ti could just be the master clutch cylinder with the above described symptoms??
 












instead of an SAS you could blow 8 grand on a Camburg 22" travel TTB kit :D

And then somehow convert it to an NV3500 since the mazda doesn't seem to like you.
 






well, already have the camburg kit( not the baddest ass one) and it pretty much blows ass. blowing axle shafts, no droop travel...let's just say I'm pretty phucking happy i blew mad dough on bullshit...................ANNNNNNYYWWAYS, my clutch is ####ed, so lets get some advice here...

1)Is it the slave(most likely is), or is there a possibility it could be the master, given that air kind of rushing sound...

2) Should I fix this ***** up a little bit and get a damn Jeep??? **** man I'm *@#%(*@&#^(@*&%(*@&%(*&%(*@&%(*&%(*%ING tired of this pointless bullshit with axles and radius arms and all kinds of crap breaking, and this rig aint even ever gonna be that great of a crawler without an SAS...which I'm kind of apprehensiave about(it will never be a great prerunner given the short wheelbase), so shoudl I fix this ******* up and sell it to some dude that wants to build a crawler??
 






I would probably consider selling it if I thought I could get anywhere near what it was worth to me, and doing the jeep thing, but after I sell it for alot less than what I got into it, then put time and money into a jeep, it would have been much more practical to keep it. Don't get me wrong, there are many days I wish I would have stated with a V8 Grand Cherokee, but then there are many days I am happy when I relaize how many of those stupid things out there that are built and junk. I have yet to see a
Navajo in Person built like mine...

I would probably fix the clutch perfect, finish those rear wells and wheel the crap out of it until it dies beyond recognition. That is my plan! I am way too committed to start over.

My $.02
 






haha, yah I guess I should get more use out of it cuz it will be worth more to me than anybody else. thanx for the tip. I just get lazy ya know...

Now for the clutch, anybody have an opinion on either the master or the slave being out? I figure its the slave but that would be quite convenient and a lot easier to fix if it was the master. what are some symptoms of the master being out?
 












sounds like the master to me.....ive changed both on my 88 BII XLT. just an FYI every clutch i went though, my slave has just pumped right up after about 5-10 mins of pumping it. (new slave has been bought, with every clutch ive changed, ((averageing twice a year lol)). of course all of my drivetrain hard parts have been from ford. try the master theres not anything else it can be at this point. its a cheap n easy fix.
 






yah I'm hoping it will just be the master. tried to get to it this weekend but have no $$, so I will replace the master next weekend and see how it does. By pumpin it, do you mean directly on the slave or the pedal?
 






Jeep, no way... Keep the Ex. It's not like having a Jeep is the answer to the never ending money pit. It's just a different pit to throw your money at.

As for your clutch. I've only had the slave go bad. If you pump the pedal and you're not getting any fluid out of the bleeder I would say the master is bad.

Here is a link to the best clutch bleeding procedure that I've found for the Ex. http://www.explorer4x4.com/bleed.pdf
 












I sometimes get that air whooshing sound coming from my master. Does that mean it's going bad? I've replaced the clutch and the slave recently and it works ok. The pedal is a little stiff though.
 






i would just pump the pedal for about 5-10 maybe 15 mins....the air should work itself out of the system since its gravity fed
 












well I got the rear driveshaft and t-case off, starter and trans are next...but I stripped a dang bolt on the exhaust "header" to catalytic converter thingy. :fire: :fire: :fire: Are these bolts pressed in or what? Can I get this dang thing out and just toss in a regular bolt and nut instead? I guess to get it off I will sawzall it then drill it out or something...i guess??
 






I didn't take my exhaust header to "y" pipe off last time due to impossible bolts. I disconnected the header from the block on the drivers side and I was able to jocky the y pipe enough to get it off.

Good info on the clutch bleed article. Much different than brakes. I will give it a try.

SO, recomend the centerforce or not?
 






Yah I realized I did not need to cut off the bolt, after I cut it off LOL. oh well, I'm a dumbass sometimes I guess. I have my exhaust chopped off right after the cat so I just disconnected both sides at the block and jimmied it out of there. I have the trans dropped and ready for the new slave, just gotta order some parts. I decided just to cut the damn clutch line off at the trans and buy a new one, instead of f-ing with the one I destryed last time around. I am going to order some parts now, so hopefully they will be here for me to work on it this saturday.

Sure, I would recommend the Centerforce. I heard somewhere that the dual friction is the same as the Gold or whatever, so there isn't any point in spending the xtra dough like I did. I dunno, its worth looking into before you drop the $$ tho. I've had no problems with the actual clutch part of it, and had nothing but great results and pulling power under load, like wheeling. It also retains the stock pedal feel, so it isn't feeling like a freakin racing clutch, which is sure nice to have when you're sitting in SoCal traffic, or clutching it a lot through the rocks.
 



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