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Matt's '92/'99 4X4 V8/4R70W swap!
- Thread starter seth247
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seth247
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comp cams recomends two sets of springs for my cam.
One set of doubles for 90$ but they require machining to the heads that will cost more in the long run and a 200$ set of "beehive" springs that don't require machining.
One set of doubles for 90$ but they require machining to the heads that will cost more in the long run and a 200$ set of "beehive" springs that don't require machining.
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my hands still hurt from doing the valve springs in the truck = PITA!! even when the truck has no radiator support, man next time the heads will be on a bench......
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I'd avoid the beehive springs, if one breaks lots of other parts go with it. Double springs have a slight safety if one breaks. But if you don't go too high in rpm's, then you shouldn't worry about that.
seth247
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Well crap now I can't find the part number for the beehive springs.
And I can't find the info that told me the doubles would need machining either.
Maybe I got stuff mixed up.
And I can't find the info that told me the doubles would need machining either.
Maybe I got stuff mixed up.
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It's okay if you ordered those, they are relatively new on the normal street market. To start with there is the rumor of them failing and the damage after, but that will be race engines, which is far higher rpm. In the rpm range you have, the spring type isn't as important. You do need to choose the springs to match the cam always.
Spdrcer34
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Beehive springs have been around for quite a few years.
I would run them, NO PROBLEM in a street/street vehicle. Those vehicles RARELY see the high RPMs in a dedicated race vehicle.
Like ANY single spring application though, high lift, Right RPM, and Long Duration are a good way to break a spring...
Ryan
I would run them, NO PROBLEM in a street/street vehicle. Those vehicles RARELY see the high RPMs in a dedicated race vehicle.
Like ANY single spring application though, high lift, Right RPM, and Long Duration are a good way to break a spring...
Ryan
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Seth
for transmission lines, since I did my first a4ld conversion YEARS ago, are simple
I use a small pipe cutter and cut the factory metal lines, about 8" long, at the trans and at the radiator. Now use a simple flare tool and put a single flare on the ends... use 5/8" high quality rubber trans cooler line with hose clamps, two clamps on each line
no leaks, works great, you can route the rubber lines however you want away from sharp edges and heat
Notice only one hose clamp? well it leaked, so I went back and added another to all 4 hose connections.... that funky thing next to the radiator is my ARB compressor
for transmission lines, since I did my first a4ld conversion YEARS ago, are simple
I use a small pipe cutter and cut the factory metal lines, about 8" long, at the trans and at the radiator. Now use a simple flare tool and put a single flare on the ends... use 5/8" high quality rubber trans cooler line with hose clamps, two clamps on each line
no leaks, works great, you can route the rubber lines however you want away from sharp edges and heat
Notice only one hose clamp? well it leaked, so I went back and added another to all 4 hose connections.... that funky thing next to the radiator is my ARB compressor
WickedWindsor
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You mean 3/8" right? That's what I used. I used a tubing bender and bent up some 3/8" fuel line with the correct ends to screw into the tranny and only needed rubber hose from the rad (original steel line ends cut) to the new steel lines ending at the pulleys. I second the extra hose clamps. Use fuel line hose clamps and NOT regular ones too. Originally with only one regular hose clamp on each end, I blew a line last year at an intersection and blew red all over a guy crossing the street. Funny thing is, he didn't know where it came from. Light turned green before he could figure it out! I now use two fuel line hose clamps on each end and have run it for a year now with NO issues and that's with no flaring on the steel ends.
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Matt, thank you for the bolts! Sorry it took me so long to tell you I got them ok, lol.
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seth247
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Ok i have a problem.
I was just installing my camshaft. When I went to check the endplay both my manuals mentioned removing the camshaft sprocket before checking the endplay.
Except with no sprocket the camshaft can move A whole 1.5 tenths of an inch front and back.
Way over the specified limit of .007".
But when I installed the old sprocket and rechecked and the endplay was right at .005".
So my question is this. Are you supposed to check endplay with the sprocket installed or removed?
I was just installing my camshaft. When I went to check the endplay both my manuals mentioned removing the camshaft sprocket before checking the endplay.
Except with no sprocket the camshaft can move A whole 1.5 tenths of an inch front and back.
Way over the specified limit of .007".
But when I installed the old sprocket and rechecked and the endplay was right at .005".
So my question is this. Are you supposed to check endplay with the sprocket installed or removed?
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