Matt's '92/'99 4X4 V8/4R70W swap!

[CDW6212R]

Those springs and retainers look funny, different. You don't need to bleed on the timing chain and gears. Just put it on dry. Concentrate the Moly lube on the cam and lifter lobes, don't put it on cylinders at all. You could buy an assembly lube but oil works fine. Some people used to go with STP.

Any and all cams should be dialed in, always. All off the shelf cams will be off from their specs if you actually check them with a degree wheel. Thus they basically all need to be advanced or retarded to get them dialed into the timing specs of the cam card.

It looks good Matt, you are getting close.

 

[seth247]

yeah the springs look like little ovals of gold cause of the beehive design.

I've got a 8oz jug of Redline assembly lube and it's goin on everything cept the cylinders which get 30weight.

My timing set has no ability for advance or retard. Only goes on one way.

 

[Spdrcer34]

The installed height is the same on the Valve Tip, but the Retainer Heights are different, from Intake to Exhaust. Why is that?

Have you seen my progress lately?

Ryan

 

[seth247]

I noticed the exhaust valve sits just a bit further out into the comb. Chamber.

I'll check your thread when I get back in the house. Right now in finishing up installing the crank again.

 

[seth247]

Got all but one piston back in. Will do it tonight.

 

[Turdle]

I don't know how involved you want to get

I think these are used for cam timing adjustment.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/4760/10002/-1

 

[seth247]

Hhhmm the only way I can see those being used is if I drilled out the key hole in my sprocket to a half inch.

I'm not terribly fussed about the cam. As long as it checks out when it's all installed.

 

[Spdrcer34]

Yep...that's the only way to do it with your timing set.

In my Oldsmobile I use a Cloyes Hex-a-Just Timing Set. That was expensive, but worth it...I used a 2 piece Timing Cover, and was able to remove my timing cover/water pump assembly in less than 10 minutes. I could adjust my cam, and put it all back together just as fast.

...okay, back to Fords...

Matt, what are you going to do for a Trans Mount?

Ryan

 

[seth247]

A trans mount came with my foxbody engine mounts. I will try to adapt it to our crossmember. Probly have to move the member and drop it down to allow my tcase to fit.


I have a question about the oil pump pickup. They are held in place by a main cap stud-bolt.

But I have converted to studs on my caps.

Should I just place the pickup mount between the nut and washer for the stud and tighten it to spec. Or should I pull the stud and use the stud-headed-bolt that came stock on the engine and also with my oil pan?

I can post pics to help explain.

 

[CDW6212R]

Use the main studs as the instructions say. Add the pickup on top of the nut, then add another nut to hold it down. You will have to spend some time bending to readjust the pickup height. Get some putty and work on the pickup to be sure you have a good 1/4" to 1/2" of space between it and the pan. I've finished mine except for final checking it.

 

[seth247]

There is only room for one nut.

I have no instructions.

I think my studs were designed for front sump applications and I didn't notice.

 

[CDW6212R]

Really, studs usually have plenty of threads left above the nut.

 

[seth247]

I will post a picture later.

 

[seth247]

This,

or this?

 

[shucker1]

Use the stud head bolt. Torque in place. Use a small amount of loctite blue before installing pick up tube nut.

It would not be a good thing if that pick up tube nut or the pick up tube came off while the engine was running.

P.S. Use a paint marker to dab all torqued bolts during assembly. That way there is no question of "Did I torque all the studs?" It wipes off with brake clean when your done.

 

[shucker1]

RE Post #601 by CDW6216R

Camshaft synchronizer and oil pump drive shaft are both driven by a helical cut gear on the camshaft. The oil pump building up pressure causes the cam to try and thrust forward against the cam thrust plate. Too much end play could cause "Cam Walk", eratic timing, camlobe wear and \ or cam bearing wear.

Camshaft thrust is controlled by cam core plug on the back side of the engine. Any time this plug is disturbed it should be resealed with a hardeding sealer (Locktite #1 or Locktite Orange).

If the plug is removed it should be replaced with a new one.

Using a dial indicator it is best to verify thrust "without" the gear installed. The gear hitting the front side of the thrust plate could cause a false reading.

 

[CDW6212R]

Matt, do not use that head bolt with the other studs, no matter what. The studs are stronger, and they apply a different pressure to the cap and block. Using any non matched fastener will give uneven holding pressure to the main cap.

If the stud is that short, then bolt down the pickup under the nut. Place the washer under the nut, not under the pickup bracket. The nut is to separate the shear forces of the nut, to give a better torque result. It will also protect the pickup bracket. That will work fine, but you will still need to check the clearance to the pickup from the pan.

 

[jakebrake]

Hey guys i have a quick question I have the canton oil adapter but when i take off the filter housing from the 5.0l block it leaves me with a female end. Anybody know of a way i can still use this piece?

 

[seth247]

yeah thanks don that's what I had decided.

Jake, in speedracers thread we discussed that problem. You have to purchase a small threaded adapter and replace the female adapter on the block. They have them on eBay for under10$.

 

[jakebrake]

thanks, it was driving me crazy, canton had no idea summit had no idea and the auto stores had no idea, i searched the threads I have been stalking but couldn't find the answer, Thanks again.