minor qs

[trozei123]

i can't believe how much i have learned working on my ex. with 243k on the clock, im suprised that its still running after my neglect. my leak was cleared up due to there being 10 qts of engine oil in there (i am dead serious on that). my transmission is no longer sucking up fluid after i replaced the vacuum modulator. i got my idle fixed by adjusting the screw and cleaning and greasing up the throttle area. i would say, i am about 75% done with having a smooth running ex. just a spark plug change, and one thing with the trans and ill be happy.

here are my minor qs.

1. one thing that kind of bugs me and my fiance crazy is the fact that the knob that you pull to turn on the headlights is not illuminated at night. i don't mind it so much, but i noticed in the manual that aparently, there is a "headlamp switch bulb". is this true? can it be replaced easily? or does the knob simply not illuminate at all?

2. this would be the big project for me. i really am not sure if it is worth doing, but i have considered changing out the transmission fluid. as long as i have owned it, it has not been done. when i do drop the pan, i would put in a drain bolt to make it easier for the next time. i figure that i should start getting more routine maitenance done if i want the ex to last. after reading all about people not changing out the fluid if it hasn't been done, i am hesitant on doing so. would it benefit the trans if it has fresh fluid in it? or should i leave it alone?

3. my fiance and i both agree on one problem when driving the ex. the seats are not comfortable at all. i tried stuffing some old tshirts between the cover and the foam to make it better, but it made them feel worse. is there any way to try to make the seats feel better? or should i try to find new ones?

4. something i have noticed that has made me wonder is the steering wheel. it definitely has some play to it before it actually moves the wheels. also, it seems like the leather is always "oozing" out something. im not sure what to do about the ooze. would a front end alignment fix the play issue?

thanks to everyone that gave me advice before, and to those that will keep on giving advice.

 

[Gadget X]

Okay, there is no illumination on the switch, so that's out. Go ahead and change the transmission fluid and filter, it will help. You could also add an auxiliary cooler if you don't have one stock. The harm you hear about is from "power flushing" the transmission with a machine. There is an adjustment of sorts on the steering box to take up some of the play in the steering, you can search on here for it. As far as the seats, you could try to source some good second-gen seats from the junkyard. Hope that helps!

 

[natenkiki2004]

Regarding the transmission...

Quick & easy, get a Magnefine 3/8" filter and install it in the rubber lines up front. The flow is from the trans, into the radiator, out of the radiator, into the auxiliary cooler, out of the aux cooler and back to the metal hard line. Following that flow, it's easy to install a filter and they're not expensive.

Dropping the transmission pan is overrated. The internal filter is basically window screen and doesn't need to be replaced. The main excitement of dropping the pan (aside from the ATF shower you WILL take) is seeing what kind of crud is in the pan.

Once you run the auxiliary filter a while, the fluid will clean up nicely. I'd suggest then to disconnect the filter and pump out 1-2 quarts of fluid by running the engine with the filter disconnected and cooling lines open. Just pump the fluid into a container like an empty jug of oil. Once a quart or two is out, close the lines up and pour fresh ATF (Valvoline MaxLife ATF is recommended) in, the equivalent that came out. Drive it a few hundred miles.

At this point, you've eliminated most of the fine particulate with the auxiliary filter and the new additives in the fluid you put in have hopefully started cleaning, causing more goodies to get caught in the filter. From here, I'd recommend to disconnect the cooler line once again and run the engine. Once a quart or so comes out, start pouring fresh ATF into the dipstick tube at a similar rate. As soon as the fluid coming out of the cooler line is as clean and bright as the fluid coming in, shut the engine off, put the cooler lines back together, run the engine and check the fluid level. Adjust as necessary.

It would be helpful, and somewhat dangerous if done improperly, to have a helper buddy cycle through the gears while you're doing the fluid exchange. 15 or so seconds in each gear. Definitely have the emergency brake on, wheels chocked and the helper have their foot pressed hard on the brake pedal.



This process will gradually clean the crud out of the trans and introduce new fluid slowly. There shouldn't be any problem with this procedure unless you pump out too much fluid and don't pour enough in and run the trans pump dry. Even that situation isn't the end of the world. You're using the transmission to pump and cycle fluid through the system so it's seeing normal pressures and use, the only difference is cleaner fluid.


For an advanced setup and info, see my signature.

 

[larrydd999]

Natenkiki2004, thanks for the clear and complete write-up. I was planning on doing that exact thing in about the same order, but lacked the size of the filter (hadn't pulled the hose to measure it yet). You saved me some work and I do appreciate it. I assume you install the filter after the coolers? Or does it matter?

 

[Rhett]

Natenkiki2004, thanks for the clear and complete write-up. I was planning on doing that exact thing in about the same order, but lacked the size of the filter (hadn't pulled the hose to measure it yet). You saved me some work and I do appreciate it. I assume you install the filter after the coolers? Or does it matter?

He's talking about adding an external filter, which would be a spin-on FL-1A (same as you use for engine oil) -- all you need to know is here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3288731

Regarding the pan filter...best place to buy them is here:
http://www.bulkpart.com/2/category/A4LDfilter.html

The SPX ones are the best, and if you're 4WD get the long tube one.
Bulkpart also sells the o-rings (you need 2, one large, one small) and a gasket (your trans is the A4LD), all of which is here:
http://www.bulkpart.com/2/category/A4LDgasket.html

Flushing as described is good and does not subject your seals to abnormal pressures, like you would get with your typical jiffy-lube high-school-kid-operated flush machine.

 

[KEN's Exploder]

94 XLT model has the auto on/off headlights via the dimming mirror. Don't know what it would take to find the wire harness, mirror on switch(es) in a junk yard to install? Therefore no need for use of the headlight switch. I only use it in the heavy daytime fog, park l rights rarely used or to adjust/dim the interior dash lights. Dimming mirror works great!

 

[Gadget X]

You may have a special setup. I thought the auto lamps was only on the limited? My xlt has none of that stuff.

 

[KEN's Exploder]

All original as I'm second owner. Original owner, ford mechanic, traded in on second generation. I bought it from dealership used with 40K on it.

 

[Rhett]

Original owner, ford mechanic,

Your mechanic seller might have added the auto headlights. I don't recall seeing that on an XLT but then again it was Ford, they would mix and match parts sometimes. Like a '90 Bronco II with an 8.8 under it.

 

[KEN's Exploder]

Convenience Feature
Air conditioning Optional
Manual sunroof Optional
Remote keyless entry Optional
Day-night rearview mirror Optional
Auto-dimming rearview mirror Optional
Driver vanity mirror Standard
Driver auxiliary visor Standard
Illuminated passenger vanity mirror Standard
Passenger auxiliary visor Standard
Partial floor console Optional
Driver door bin Standard
Passenger door bin Standard
Illuminated glove box Standard

Read more at http://www.cars.com/ford/explorer/1994/specifications#Uq3PmsgZOifEfXbc.99

The day/night rear view mirror was an $485.00 option available for the 94 XLT Mirror operates lights, length of time lights are off after KO and dimming mirror. I've seen it in other XLT's.

 

[trozei123]

i was out shopping for my fiance for her birthday yesterday (her bday is valentines day), and i saw this radio and was suprised at the price. would this be a easy install? i have the stock radio, and really don't like having to buy the cassete tape adapters to listen to my music on my phone, since they wear out really quick.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/XO-Vision-XD107BT-MP3-and-FM-Receiver-with-Bluetooth/46488438

 

[trashtruck]

i was out shopping for my fiance for her birthday yesterday (her bday is valentines day), and i saw this radio and was suprised at the price. would this be a easy install? i have the stock radio, and really don't like having to buy the cassete tape adapters to listen to my music on my phone, since they wear out really quick.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/XO-Vision-XD107BT-MP3-and-FM-Receiver-with-Bluetooth/46488438

you get what you pay for. i've never had good luck with anything electronic from wallyworld.

 

[KEN's Exploder]

Bad choice, stick with the brand names; Kenwood, Sony, Alpine. If you're looking for improved sound you'll need to swap out speakers as well. Not a difficult job but should take a few hours if done neatly. Be sure to check for any adapter wire harnesses available for ford explorer from the radio manufacturer so you don't have to cut any wires.

Price of the wally world radio scares me right away...

If you're looking for convenience stick with the tape adapters. The Ford radio is good quality.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Natenkiki2004, thanks for the clear and complete write-up. I was planning on doing that exact thing in about the same order, but lacked the size of the filter (hadn't pulled the hose to measure it yet). You saved me some work and I do appreciate it. I assume you install the filter after the coolers? Or does it matter?

Not a problem, that's why we're all here. Different experiences, research, knowledge all coming together to trade info.

Both my 1991 and 1994 are 3/8" lines from the factory so that's 100% solid info.

As far as where to install the filter... You can do research and a lot of people recommend running it before any of the coolers (including the radiator tank cooler) but I personally didn't want to cut & flare a metal line just to do it that way. As you can see in my thread, I run it between the radiator and auxiliary cooler. Might help it flow better when the fluid is warmed up by the radiator on cold starts? I don't think it matters though. The fluid going back to the trans is far from cold. You won't be able to touch the lines.

 

[larrydd999]

Natenkiki2004, thanks again. I did purchase the FL1 adapter but was a bit concerned about having it located that low so was having second thoughts about installing it. I'll build a bracket and put it up a bit.
Trozei123, I'm using an OEM radio/tape unit with an FM transmitter and a tiny memory card (it also takes USB memory sticks) and like it very much. You can get the transmitters with Bluetooth as well. Some of the local auto stores have them or you can get them for around $8 and up at everyone's favorite auction site. They plug into the 12V lighter socket normally, but I've wired a couple of sockets to go on and off with the ignition/accessory switch.

 

[trozei123]

Natenkiki2004, thanks again. I did purchase the FL1 adapter but was a bit concerned about having it located that low so was having second thoughts about installing it. I'll build a bracket and put it up a bit.
Trozei123, I'm using an OEM radio/tape unit with an FM transmitter and a tiny memory card (it also takes USB memory sticks) and like it very much. You can get the transmitters with Bluetooth as well. Some of the local auto stores have them or you can get them for around $8 and up at everyone's favorite auction site. They plug into the 12V lighter socket normally, but I've wired a couple of sockets to go on and off with the ignition/accessory switch.

I have bjack een reading some articles on what makes the best connection for radios. They all say that fm transmitters are the worst because you always have to change stations to keep your music locked in or take the antenna off. The tape units are a little better because there will not be outside interference. The issue there is that they wear out and not work properly. My fiancebought me one for Christmas and it stopped working after a week. She was upset cuz she got an expensive one that was advertised as being a long lasting tape unit. The best method is direct link via an input jack or Bluetooth. i notice that some radio units can get up there in price. I am just looking for a cheap unit that has an input jack or Bluetooth so i can stop wasting money on the tape units and not worry about changing stations with an fm transmitter.

 

[natenkiki2004]

If you can solder, this might be a way to go:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Adding-an-auxilary-input-into-a-Ford-stereo/

 

[2stroke]

Years ago I bought a Pioneer DEH-1300MP. It has been a great unit, and I plan to buy another if I can. Things I look for is MP3 plug in, fixed CD player, and brand. I always stick to well know brands like Pioneer, Kenwood, Alpine, etc. I only buy with a fixed CD player. I've had 2 cars with those kind where the head flips over everytime you start the car. I also bought one before I got my Pioneer. They don't work. The sound the gears make as they flip is horrid, and they get stuck half way all the time. As for playing MP3's, an audio jack is the only way. I've tried FM transmitters, cassette adapters, and they are only marginal. I have yet to try one with blutooth.

 

[trozei123]

Its been a while, but I have made progress getting my ex back to good working order. O got the 4 wheel drive fixed thanks to the posts on here about the stop bumper and soaking the hubs in atf. Tried it out for the first time with my fiance and son. He laughed and enjoyed the bouncing around, but she thought we would all die and roll over. Her reaction was funny. Now that i have been off road, i have caught the bug and want to go out to other places. Hard part will be convincing the misses that its safe.

Only thing that is broken now are both back window regulator cables. I don't know how i will be able to fix those. Anyone have any advice?

One issue that still bugs me is that after i finish driving and shift to park, the idle climbs up high. Normally when i start up in the morning, idle is about 450. The engine also has a bit of a shudder to it, but it runs fine. After driving, it climbs to around 1500. I have already replaced the vacuum lines after reading a post on here and seeing his YouTube video on the routing. I have also cleaned the iac, but the idle still revs high. Anyone know what the issue is?

 

[natenkiki2004]

The idling should be opposite of that. Should be high on a cold start and slowly lower after 10 seconds or so. On warm starts, it will rev up slightly and come back down quick. First thing I'd check is a test on the Coolant Temp sensors. They're under the throttle body. I think the double-wire one is for the PCM, single-wire is for the gauge.