Miracle in a bottle for Timing Chain tensioner?

[ExplorerRider]

You could just do back to back seafoam treatments yourself and see if it helps. just pour in the oil obviously. I would if you have the time just do it yourself, i can post pictures of the tools i made to hold the cams in place, its not the easiest job in the world but it can be done. Also only run motorcraft oil it has the additives to keep those tensioners happy and plastic soft and not brittle. At least from the info i have gathered, i run motorcraft any way but. I picked my 06 mounty premier for 300$ because of this exact issue. Hope you get it figured! I also assume no engine light?

Strictly Motorcraft oil too, huh?! I'm about to change mine today w/Valvoline full synthetic w/high mileage additives & a bottle of full synthetic STP Oil Treatment... (And I know, I know! But STP Oil Treatment is a Rider family tradition since the stuff was invented, so... ) Also, I'm staring at two Motorcraft filters I ordered RN, but in a 3rd Gen-specific Facebook forum, an "old head" - his words, not mine - suggested a different type of filter that he said would increase oil pressure, though my 4.0 SOHC holds good pressure RN at 154,000 miles. What say you? Motorcraft filters or try the others & see if I get a boost in pressure? Lastly, I just replaced the ignition coil, wires & plugs, all Motorcraft, using the double platinum w/iridium core-style plugs that is now suggested, since the originals that were made for the wasted fire ignition system are no longer made... Though I nearly screwed up & bought double platinum Autolites! Also put a Motorcraft in-line fuel filter & the higher performance STP air filter vs just a standard, & while it idles pretty darn smoothly, it has one TINY, TINY "little rough, rumbling patch," as is the best way I can describe it. But my question is - & I don't hear the dreaded death rattle, knock on wood & praise The Lord(!) - but do you think it'd be prudent to replace the tensioners, especially seeing as how they're external??? Sorry for such a long post, but this baby is being revived after sitting for roughly 4 years, only covered w/tarps, & so, especially w/154,000 on it now... I wanna treat this engine right, ya know? So could my "tiny, little rough-rumbling patch" in the idle be related to my timing chain cassettes in your opinion? Or might I need a new mass air flow sensor or something? I thank whomever reads this & actually is kind enough to respond! Thnx in advance!

 

[SoFlaLivin]

If Ford say's replace tensioners at 90k , I'd do it at 50k . I use Seafoam once a year thru vacuum line at brake booster . Snake oil or not it makes me feel better
Lucas Oil stabilizer every other oil change . also Lucas transmission at every oil and filter change , 2001 Ranger has like 390k , I do transmission every year it's hooked up to trailer , 2002 Sport Trac gets a tranny filter and oil every 12k .. has 250k , did the chains at 213k , compression 160 across all cylinders , I do oil at 2k....

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Strictly Motorcraft oil too, huh?! I'm about to change mine today w/Valvoline full synthetic w/high mileage additives & a bottle of full synthetic STP Oil Treatment... (And I know, I know! But STP Oil Treatment is a Rider family tradition since the stuff was invented, so... ) Also, I'm staring at two Motorcraft filters I ordered RN, but in a 3rd Gen-specific Facebook forum, an "old head" - his words, not mine - suggested a different type of filter that he said would increase oil pressure, though my 4.0 SOHC holds good pressure RN at 154,000 miles. What say you? Motorcraft filters or try the others & see if I get a boost in pressure? Lastly, I just replaced the ignition coil, wires & plugs, all Motorcraft, using the double platinum w/iridium core-style plugs that is now suggested, since the originals that were made for the wasted fire ignition system are no longer made... Though I nearly screwed up & bought double platinum Autolites! Also put a Motorcraft in-line fuel filter & the higher performance STP air filter vs just a standard, & while it idles pretty darn smoothly, it has one TINY, TINY "little rough, rumbling patch," as is the best way I can describe it. But my question is - & I don't hear the dreaded death rattle, knock on wood & praise The Lord(!) - but do you think it'd be prudent to replace the tensioners, especially seeing as how they're external??? Sorry for such a long post, but this baby is being revived after sitting for roughly 4 years, only covered w/tarps, & so, especially w/154,000 on it now... I wanna treat this engine right, ya know? So could my "tiny, little rough-rumbling patch" in the idle be related to my timing chain cassettes in your opinion? Or might I need a new mass air flow sensor or something? I thank whomever reads this & actually is kind enough to respond! Thnx in advance!

Oil- any big brand synthetic will wok fine IMO. As far as filters increasing pressure, I don't buy it. If Im thinking the right way, To increase pressure, it'd have to bottleneck more, reducing flow. Or vice versa more flow means less bottlenecking. The only way to increase both is I think oil pump? If not it'd all be the same IMO. MC filters are good quality for a cheap price.

Whereabouts in the RPM range is this rough patch? There could be a million different things. However, changing the tensioners (as a whole) couldnt hurt. I'd go mechanical. I'd check for a miss or other causes. Usually the first sign of the timing chain rattle is at startup.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

If Ford say's replace tensioners at 90k , I'd do it at 50k . I use Seafoam once a year thru vacuum line at brake booster . Snake oil or not it makes me feel better
Lucas Oil stabilizer every other oil change . also Lucas transmission at every oil and filter change , 2001 Ranger has like 390k , I do transmission every year it's hooked up to trailer , 2002 Sport Trac gets a tranny filter and oil every 12k .. has 250k , did the chains at 213k , compression 160 across all cylinders , I do oil at 2k....

At least these arent DI engines those have alot more deposits good ole port injection rules!

The oil stabilizer from what I've observed seems to make it thicker, which would increase the film in the engine, but decreases cold flow. But in FL I dont think cold flow is a big issue. However, what seems to offer good protection w/o increasing thickness seems to be Motorkote. But as with any oil related discussion not worth getting into the weeds haha.

Whats most important above additives is frequent oil changes

 

[oklagp1200r]

If Ford say's replace tensioners at 90k , I'd do it at 50k . I use Seafoam once a year thru vacuum line at brake booster . Snake oil or not it makes me feel better
Lucas Oil stabilizer every other oil change . also Lucas transmission at every oil and filter change , 2001 Ranger has like 390k , I do transmission every year it's hooked up to trailer , 2002 Sport Trac gets a tranny filter and oil every 12k .. has 250k , did the chains at 213k , compression 160 across all cylinders , I do oil at 2k....

You change engine oil at 2K

 

[donalds]

I change my oil at 3000

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I change my oil at 3000

+1!

 

[ExplorerRider]

Oil- any big brand synthetic will wok fine IMO. As far as filters increasing pressure, I don't buy it. If Im thinking the right way, To increase pressure, it'd have to bottleneck more, reducing flow. Or vice versa more flow means less bottlenecking. The only way to increase both is I think oil pump? If not it'd all be the same IMO. MC filters are good quality for a cheap price.

Whereabouts in the RPM range is this rough patch? There could be a million different things. However, changing the tensioners (as a whole) couldnt hurt. I'd go mechanical. I'd check for a miss or other causes. Usually the first sign of the timing chain rattle is at startup.

The rough patch is *incredibly mild* & takes places during the idle. So whatever RPMs a 4.0 idles at. Also, It isn't noticeable when driving. My service engine soon light came on today when my father was driving it around noon though, & it was still on at 8:20 pm. Going to Autozone to have it scanned in the morning. But I'm w/you. More oil pressure from a filter? I'll stick w/OEM, which I just put on w/5w-30 full synthetic Valvoline & STP Synthetic Oil Treatment. My oil pressure gauge is sitting abv the halfway mark, as it always has, so... I do thank ya, sir

 

[Fix4Dirt]

The rough patch is *incredibly mild* & takes places during the idle. So whatever RPMs a 4.0 idles at. Also, It isn't noticeable when driving. My service engine soon light came on today when my father was driving it around noon though, & it was still on at 8:20 pm. Going to Autozone to have it scanned in the morning. But I'm w/you. More oil pressure from a filter? I'll stick w/OEM, which I just put on w/5w-30 full synthetic Valvoline & STP Synthetic Oil Treatment. My oil pressure gauge is sitting abv the halfway mark, as it always has, so... I do thank ya, sir

A filter in theory could increase the outlet pressure. In practice it would be negligible and theres a reason the factory had it that way. Thats my physics mindset going on there Say you have a set volume of water going through a hose youll see more pressure from a 1" diameter hose than a 10" diameter. Assuming the pump fisplaces the same volume a thinner outlet would decrease flow but increase pressure. Anyways I digress. Stick with OE haha that was my physics mindsrt rambling there

 

[ExplorerRider]

A filter in theory could increase the outlet pressure. In practice it would be negligible and theres a reason the factory had it that way. Thats my physics mindset going on there Say you have a set volume of water going through a hose youll see more pressure from a 1" diameter hose than a 10" diameter. Assuming the pump fisplaces the same volume a thinner outlet would decrease flow but increase pressure. Anyways I digress. Stick with OE haha that was my physics mindsrt rambling there

Nah, I get it! It's perfectly logical. No worries! I'm abt to have to start a separate Service Engine Soon light thread though, unfortunately...