More brake line issues

[pservecc]

For those of you who have read my other thread about having my brake lines replaced at a dealer, this is yet another part of that "experience". After getting it back from them, I noticed a couple of stiff spots in the steering. Not thinking it could be anything that they did, I was left wondering if the rack was on it's way out. Before I could investigate, the right front wheel bearing died, and I turned my attention to that. While working on this newest problem, I discovered two more things about the brake line job. First, the new line put in for the right front wheel is making contact with the joint at the bottom of the steering column. This appears to be the cause of the stiffness I felt in the steering. Second, I found yet another coupler was used, making a total of three on the one line to the right front wheel.

Despite two bleeds of the system by the dealer, the pedal is still nowhere near as firm as it was before this mess began.

I simply don't have the words to describe how I feel about this repair job.

New RF line contact with steering!

Couplers at the HCU. Why??

New RF line from left wheel well.

New RF line along crossmember. :thumbdwn:

 

[Turdle]

Not on my truck!!

 

[IZwack]

I'm not so sure that the hard brake line touching the steering shaft is causing the stiffness. I just cant imagine a hard brake line exerting that much pressure on the steering shaft to cause it to feel "stiff" seeing as the steering wheel has such a huge torque radius. I'm assuming you've checked the power steering fluid level?

 

[Turdle]

I'm not so sure that the hard brake line touching the steering shaft is causing the stiffness. I just cant imagine a hard brake line exerting that much pressure on the steering shaft to cause it to feel "stiff" seeing as the steering wheel has such a huge torque radius. I'm assuming you've checked the power steering fluid level?

Is it just me, or is the steering intermediate shaft to steering rack pinch bolt whacking the brake line with every revolution?That would thump the steering wheel.
yup, in top pic the bolt is hitting hard

 

[IZwack]

Is it just me, or is the steering intermediate shaft to steering rack pinch bolt whacking the brake line with every revolution?That would thump the steering wheel.
yup, in top pic the bolt is hitting hard

Ohh now that I look at it again, I see what you're saying. Previously, I though the steering shaft was the black piece of metal directly behind where that one brake line does a "Z" bend. My appologies!

 

[pservecc]

Not on my truck!!

How do you mean? Are you saying that you would not stand for the couplers in the line? Obviously, I need to go back again to have the line fixed to clear the steering column properly.

@Izwack
I agree that it sounds a little sketchy, and I won't know for sure until the line is fixed. However, from what I can tell by holding the line out of the way and pushing on the tire by hand, it seems to be the culprit. Also, the stiffness is present while turning the steering wheel with the wheels off the ground and the engine off. When I felt it get stiff, I went underneath and snapped the pic. The new line is very hard to move, and cannot be forced into it's clip.

@jtsmith
Yes, it's hitting on the bolt head with every rev.

 

[Turdle]

How do you mean? Are you saying that you would not stand for the couplers in the line? Obviously, I need to go back again to have the line fixed to clear the steering column properly.

@Izwack
I agree that it sounds a little sketchy, and I won't know for sure until the line is fixed. However, from what I can tell by holding the line out of the way and pushing on the tire by hand, it seems to be the culprit. Also, the stiffness is present while turning the steering wheel with the wheels off the ground and the engine off. When I felt it get stiff, I went underneath and snapped the pic. The new line is very hard to move, and cannot be forced into it's clip.

@jtsmith
Yes, it's hitting on the bolt head with every rev.

Correct on all
That is a case of beer and a few buddies fixing a beater type repair there.

Depending on what they charged you--id like to know by the way- i would go demand the "new" lines they charged for

The more I look at this, the more upsetting it is. That bolt would eventually cut the line, if ignored.

 

[IZwack]

The more I look at this, the more upsetting it is. That bolt would eventually cut the line, if ignored.

Totally agree - and it becomes a very dangerous situation as the vehicle will loose all brake pressure after just a tiny tiny little pin hole

 

[Turdle]

Just another rolled explorer

 

[pservecc]

My instructions were to replace all the hard brake lines. They changed the one to the RF, the one to the LR, and the one from the LR to the RR, but not the LF.

The cost was 4 hrs. labor + 1 hr. more labor because "it was rusty" + parts for a total of $458.

BTW, this is a 1998 XLT 4Dr 4WD with 60K miles that I bought new.

 

[Turdle]

This is a shame!
I have thoughts of one of my daughters having a repair like this done, then a month passing before dad can inspect it.

 

[marragtop]

Needless to say, you need to get them to fix it properly, providing they know how to. I'd also be looking for some sort of refund due to the hassle they are putting you through. You can also contact the BBB. Your pics would make them look pretty bad in a negotiation setting.

 

[pservecc]

I have been thinking about asking for some compensation for my trouble. After all, I went to the dealer in the first place so I could get a good job that I wouldn't have to worry about. I did pay by credit card, and I know I can file a dispute or something, but I haven't done that before and have no idea how it would be resolved in such a situation. I expect the shop foreman will agree to fix the clearance issue, but I don't think he's going to want to change out the whole line (and get rid of the couplers) to do it. I complained about there being two of them on that line the first time I had it back there, and he said it was fine.

 

[Turdle]

You call your credit card company right now and tell them you want to dispute the charge--keep your pictures.


The charge will come off your account-it will then be the shop's burden to prove the charge is good. Normally is just goes away--I disputed 2 charges in my time, never heard about them again..
I would go ahead and file a 30 dollar small claim--just to be sure. You should end up only paying that.

I would be afraid to give them a second chance...

 

[pservecc]

I would go ahead and file a 30 dollar small claim--just to be sure. You should end up only paying that.

I would be afraid to give them a second chance...

What is a $30 small claim? How does it related to the situation?

So you would not bring it back to the same shop, but go elsewhere instead? This would be the second time I've been back for this job. The first time back was to reroute the LR line per this thread...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168306

 

[marragtop]

If you are dealing with a Ford dealer, you can escalate the problem to the service manager (if you haven't already). If he doesn't give you satisfaction, ask for the name and number of the Ford area rep. Call the area rep and tell him you don't want to deal with that shop any longer, and ask for another dealer.

 

[Fredness]

It usually costs about $30 to file a claim in court.

Try talking to the service manager and get names and dates/times of everyone. Then try the BBB. Then small claims court.

 

[Turdle]

What is a $30 small claim? How does it related to the situation?

So you would not bring it back to the same shop, but go elsewhere instead? This would be the second time I've been back for this job. The first time back was to reroute the LR line per this thread...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168306

In my county it costs 29.50 to file a small claims case. You are asking for a refund for not only incorrect, but negligent-hazardous repair.
This could have caused you harm--it is clearly a negligence.

Do you trust them??

 

[Dan Whitaker]

What I don't understand is why the dealer had to make the lines themselves.
Surely the lines are available pre-made from Ford.

The assembly plant sure as hell does not make them at the plant. They have them pre-made to their specs by an outside source.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I wouldn't stand for that a bit. I would ask for a refund and find another shop, and specificy that you want the factory bent lines, no couplers. I wouldn't accept it any other way. Dealers like that give the whole company a bad name.

And your truck is really rusty- id invest in some POR15 and spend a few hours on a creeper.