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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
I could get a shot of it, on my truck. However the unit they sent, looked like a shiny black version of the same thing I pulled off stock motor. Identical visually
By "stock block" do you mean stock engine block? Or do you mean stock shortblock???
Block construction is the least of anyones engine worries here. You will have to worry about your pistons, connecting rods, and crank long before you will have to worry about your block itself giving up the ghost. Now obviously if one of those above mentioned items were to break of course they could easily punch a hole through the side of the block, stock or not. A common misconception is people worry about the blocks themselves. Unless you going with a real serious setup (600+hp) you will not need to worry or even think about block casting/webbing design or metallurgy.
I was commenting on a mild performance engine build. Forged Rods, Forged Pistons, Cast Crank in a stock block. No real reason to step up to a Forged or Billet Crank, if your still running a Stock Block. Main Webs will break before the crank goes.....and when the webs go, they usually don't go quietly, or softly.....so it's bye-bye crank too.....whether it's cast, forged or billet...
Cast steel cranks are usually good for 500hp. Forged I beam rods are good for 500hp H beams usually good for 600-750hp. Hypertectic pistons are good for 6000rpm. If your planning a power adder (NOS, supercharge or turbo) or plan on seeing 7000rpm often the go with forged pistons.
IMO cast crank I beam rods hyp pistons and a high torque cam would be perfect for an X. Even with the stock cam your probably looking to get 20-30 ft lb or maybe more.