Moving again; camshaft synchronizer chirping in cold: Monitoring failure?

[Terkins]

Happy 2020 All'y'all!

Sudden circumstances & I'm moving (solo) again: To the 'big city'; 1-load-at-a-time ('tired bones'/weak heart/failing kidneys/'lost' 2nd-wind.)

I can hear my camshaft synchronizer chirping more-and-more (2000 XLS, 6-OHV, 145k); especially at-idle. I have a Scan Gauge II: 'no codes' (yet...) Is there some 'factor' I can watch/monitor that may tell me when the camshaft synchronizer is about to crap-out on me (besides if it won't start/won't run)?

I'd like to not have to get towed with the XLS stuffed to the gills with moving effects. (Besides: Fund$ are tight between rental$ right now!)

 

[donalds]

Little trans fluid on the bushing in there will buy you some time
Perhaps @koda2000 can tell you more I think he just was talking about it I think

 

[Mbrooks420]

I think it’s a bear to change on the OhV. It should run without the sensor at all.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Previous posters were correct; it is a sunny beach to change.
Best short term solution is to spray the synchro shaft with WD-40
and add a few drops of ATF. It's difficult to even remove the sensor
itself on a 2000. The two capscrews require a 5.5mm socket with
1/4 inch ratchet and extension. A small mirror and flashlight will
help you to see it.

 

[FijiBill]

The problem is that the cam sync drives the oil pump. So, while the engine will run without the cam sync, it won't run without an oil pump. If the cam sync fails and freezes up, your engine is toast.

A bit of oil in the top will buy you time and lets you get familiar with the 5.5 mm cover bolts and overall neighborhood. If the old cam sync is still correct, it isn't a big deal to replace it. Just take a photo of the old flag/sync position with your cell phone and put the new one in exactly the same spot. No need for TDC or the alignment tool. The computer only cares about where the flag is in reference to the sensor.

The hardest part is getting access. On my 99 I could get to it just by removing the coil pack. One hold down bolt for the sync and the rest is pretty easy.

I think it’s a bear to change on the OhV. It should run without the sensor at all.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’ve never heard of ones seizing, though I’ve heard of roll pin failures on cheap replacements. This is best left to a Motorcraft part.

 

[C420sailor]

The hardest part is getting access. On my 99 I could get to it just by removing the coil pack. One hold down bolt for the sync and the rest is pretty easy.

Is this in a V8 or V6?

 

[Mbrooks420]

It couldn't be easier to change on a V8. They are right out front. The v6 it’s tucked in the side/back.

 

[FijiBill]

OP has the V6 OHV

With the sensor top off, here's what you'll see looking down from the back of where the coil pack would be. Note that the flag and cam sync orientation are exactly the same, old versus new.

I use the hold down bolt for reference. It is worth noting that tightening the hold down bolt will pull the cam sync down and rotate the flag further.

Old

New

 

[Terkins]

...(7 mos. later) I've made the move, been through some (human) surgery(/more coming): XLS/OHV still 'chirping' (but not always?)
I'm up to ~149K now; passed state inspection. Just paid insurance/new tires. The (Rockauto) Motorcraft replacement camshaft synchronizer is $199.00 vs. 'others'.
Can I get any 'votes' for the non-Motorcraft part...such as the 'STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS CSA6' ($48.00) with a 3-yr. warranty + comes with the alignment tool?

 

[Terkins]

OP has the V6 OHV
With the sensor top off, here's what you'll see looking down from the back of where the coil pack would be. Note that the flag and cam sync orientation are exactly the same, old versus new.
I use the hold down bolt for reference. It is worth noting that tightening the hold down bolt will pull the cam sync down and rotate the flag further.
New
View attachment 315336

I'm looking at the installed camshaft synch wondering how it got inserted straight-line traveling by the overlying (protruding) parts? Were these in-line parts removed and later re-installed in the 'after-shaft-installation' photo?

 

[Terkins]

Previous posters were correct; it is a sunny beach to change.
It's difficult to even remove the sensor itself on a 2000. The two capscrews require a 5.5mm socket with 1/4 inch ratchet and extension. A small mirror and flashlight will help you to see it.

This other poster contradicts your 'sunny beach':

Ford must have changed things on the 2000 model year. The A/C line and wiring loom are in the way, and the engine might be set back more than previous years...? Bottom line is for anyone replacing the syncro on a 2000, the upper plenum has to come off, and most likely the lower intake also. Since I need a left side valve cover gasket anyway and the engine has almost 170K miles, I'm taking the LIM off and replacing all the gaskets as it goes back together. Not a hard job, just aggravating. The syncro and sensor couldn't be in a harder place to access...

Did you have to remove any of the aforementioned parts to do your repair?

Also: Which brand part did you use for your replacement?

 

[donalds]

Motorcraft!!

 

[410Fortune]

SKIP the cheapo cam synchs
Get MOTORCRAFT
this comes from somebody who has changed out about 40 of those things in the truck, I have also battled them for weeks when the aftermarket part (Richporter sold under many different brand labels) actually does not fit the OHV correctly and gets hung up in the engine requiring the use of a custom slide hammer to remove it.
Get the motorcraft part, worth every penny

 

[Terkins]

SKIP the cheapo cam synchs...
Get the motorcraft part, worth every penny

'410Fortune' I appreciate your hard-won-opinion! I'm old-enough now to comprehend the 'wisdom of experience' (interesting: that spells 'w.o.e.')! (If only we fathers/husbands could somehow 'red-pill-our-w.o.e.' and force-feed it to our progeny (wives too): Perhaps our Nation wouldn't be in the pickle it finds itself presently?)
(I'll start saving my shekels (again)...)
Motorcraft it will be...

 

[410Fortune]

If only!!!
W.O.E.
I love it

 

[fast_dave]

@Terkins

For a much less frustrating repair, and greatly increasing your chances of hitting your goal the 1st time, I suggest the following 2 tips:

TIP 1: Look at @FijiBill great pics that accurately represent this "top - down" job - this sucker is BURIED in back and UNDER the intake & fuel injection rail.

Lift your hood and make "witness marks" on all 4 corners where the hood hinges mate up with the hood.

Get a buddy (doesn't have to be a strong buddy - just a second set of hands) & remove the 4 bolts that hold the hood on and remove the hood and set it aside - it's aluminum and maybe weigh 25 - 30 lbs.

When job is complete, get your buddy, align your hood with the help of the witness marks, bolt it on - and you're done!

The job was MUCH less frustrating; way easier on your back and you won't be banging your head on the underside of the hood - you've been advised

TIP 2: You might also want to SERIOUSLY consider buying the a Camshaft Synchronizer Alignment Tool Kit for the job since this is your 1st time...

It greatly increases your chances of hitting your goal the 1st time.

NOTE: If you're 1 tooth off on re-installing the synchro, well - all the money you saved by NOT buying the tool is thrown waaaaaaaayyyyyy far out the window.

NOTE 2: DO NOT REMOVE the old synchro without 1st consulting instructions for use of the synchronizer alignment tool which are all over the internet and this forum - there is a BEFORE and AFTER sequence to it's use.

$17 on Amazon (less than most want for 1 tool)

Amazon Link: Amazon.com: Spectra Premium TK01 Camshaft Synchronizer Alignment Tool Kit for Select Ford/Mercury/Mazda/Jeep Models: Automotive

Close the loop when done good luck!

 

[Terkins]

@Terkins
For a much less frustrating repair, and greatly increasing your chances of hitting your goal the 1st time, I suggest the following 2 tips:
TIP 1: Look at @FijiBill great pics that accurately represent this "top - down" job - this sucker is BURIED in back and UNDER the intake & fuel injection rail.
Lift your hood and make "witness marks" on all 4 corners where the hood hinges mate up with the hood.
TIP 2: You might also want to SERIOUSLY consider buying the a Camshaft Synchronizer Alignment Tool Kit for the job since this is your 1st time...
It greatly increases your chances of hitting your goal the 1st time.
NOTE: If you're 1 tooth off on re-installing the synchro, well - all the money you saved by NOT buying the tool is thrown waaaaaaaayyyyyy far out the window.
NOTE 2: DO NOT REMOVE the old synchro without 1st consulting instructions for use of the synchronizer alignment tool which are all over the internet and this forum - there is a BEFORE and AFTER sequence to it's use.
Close the loop when done good luck!

Thanks for the (multiple) heads-up! I've got a few dragons barking at my door at the moment. This will have to happen after they're 'quieted' first/'shekels saved'/nerves steadied.
(I'm surprised that my new-found repair shop wants to charge me 2.5 hrs. labor for this repair? Given your instructions, once the hood is removed, it doesn't seem that lengthy a repair? (Provided the old part will allow being 'removed'.)
'Until later...'

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

This other poster contradicts your 'sunny beach':


Did you have to remove any of the aforementioned parts to do your repair?

Also: Which brand part did you use for your replacement?

Terkins, "sunny beach" was actually a reference to Son-Of-A-*****e; (poor joke).
No question about using Motorcraft, considering how inaccessible the sensor is.
Two and a half hours labor is a bargain. I had to remove everything including the
lower intake manifold to get to mine. It's time consuming.

Some folks have replaced the cam sensor without removing the intakes, but on
my 2000 there's simply no room to access it.

 

[Terkins]

Terkins, No question about using Motorcraft, considering how inaccessible the sensor is.
Two and a half hours labor is a bargain. I had to remove everything including the
lower intake manifold to get to mine. It's time consuming.
Some folks have replaced the cam sensor without removing the intakes, but on
my 2000 there's simply no room to access it.

'Taken under advisement.' You've given me a new perspective while I further research this project. Thanks!!