How to: My 1st Gen front Brake job Diary

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Glacier has once again raised the bar with visual aided posts.

Posted by CDW:

Tips: On ABS vehicles, don't push the calipers back in with the bleed screws closed. The fluid in the calipers is the source of dirty fluid, which can ruin the ABS pump. Always open those bleed screws while compressing the pistons.

Oops, I read this a day too late. Just did my front pads and this didn't even enter my mind. Vehicle only has about 60K on it, so hope it's not too critical at this point.

I found a frozen/seized caliper guide pin on mine (Gen II's are a little different). It was causing one pad to wear, while the other side was doing nothing. As I found out, lubing the pins is EXTREMELY important.

 

[Rhett]

NOTE: Do not dangle it from the hose. Find a place to park it or use a wire to suspend it. In the stationary part will be the rear pad, remove it but sliding it inward and out of the slot it uses.

Great thread. One thing I do with the caliper assembly is take two paint cans, stack them one on top of the other, and place them in the wheel well. What do I do with the cans? I sit the caliper assembly on them so the assembly won't dangle!

Works better than trying to balance the caliper assembly on top of the spindle, or trying to hang it off the coil spring with a coathanger. Wire has just never worked for me.

 

[CDW6212R]

Chris, I just finished adding the 12" SportTrac rotors, and spindles to my 99. Much better!
Don

 

[Terry_Jim]

I've never actually done brake work before so it seems a little daunting. Of course I've done all kinds of engine, electrical, and suspension work so I guess it's about time I try. Anyway, my 91 came with Warn manual hubs. Is the procedure similiar to changing the rotors with auto hubs?

There are fewer parts under the manual hubs, otherwise, the same to remove rotor, repack bearings, etc.

 

[Terry_Jim]

Just finished replacing brake hoses & rotors, repacking bearings.
What I learned:
-There are two brake hoses for first gen Explorers, Before 01/92 and after 02/92
Your manufacture date is on the label inside driver's door.
-The necessary, & impossible to find 11mm flare wrench
you need for the brake line nuts
is also a 7/16- which I happened to have
Wasn't going to replace rotors, but the frozen bleeder valves,
the brake fluid & rust slushy that came out of them
and the $21 price for remans at Autozone made it an easy decision.
Regards

 

[HylianOverlord]

Try anti-seize on the sliders.
Don W

That's exactly what I did.

 

[HylianOverlord]

Great thread. One thing I do with the caliper assembly is take two paint cans, stack them one on top of the other, and place them in the wheel well. What do I do with the cans? I sit the caliper assembly on them so the assembly won't dangle!

Works better than trying to balance the caliper assembly on top of the spindle, or trying to hang it off the coil spring with a coathanger. Wire has just never worked for me.

I use a five-gallon bucket to hold the caliper usually.

 

[HylianOverlord]

Ok... this thread is all about a complete front brake job on a 1st Gen Explorer (92 to be exact)....I will do one side... pads, caliper, slides, rotor and bearings....

There are two bolts that hold the caliper on the spindle. They use blue locktight and you will probably need a 1/2 inch breaker bar to get them off...
Once those 2 bolts are removed you have to remove the stationary part of the caliper.


Now the fact I wore out pads on one side with a lot of lad left on the other means the caliper was stuck.... SO I wanted to clean up the grooves on both parts... first the caliper itself

and then on the mount, which I reinstalled using blue locktite... THIS IS IMPORTANT

here is the cleaning of the groove on the mounting side

I have two questions. What are the two bolts that hold the caliper on the spindle? I didn't have any bolts holding my caliper to the spindle.

When you talk about the "mount" are you referring to the part the caliper goes back into? and why does it need blue lock tight?

 

[NWmrTim]

Tips: On ABS vehicles, don't pussh the calipers back in with the bleed screws closed. The fluid in the calipers is the source of dirty fluid, which can ruin the ABS pump. Always open those bleed screws while compressing the pistons.

Also, skip the piston "tools." Always compress the pistons first, with a screw driver. Much faster and cheaper. This assumes that the pads are being replaced. Pry the screwdriver between the pad and the rotor, or caliper. There is virtually always a place to pry the pistons in, and it only takes a few seconds.
DonW[/QUOTE]

My "universal caliper piston compression tool" is a large C-Clamp. I always put a small (clear) hose on the bleeder, and have that run to a small glass jar with some brake fluid in it. That allows air to evacuate, and draws fluid on back flow.

Then, place an old brake pad across the caliper piston, position the C-Clamp around the body of the caliper, and snug the C-Clamp up to begin to compress the piston. Start with applying a little pressure on the caliper, then crack the bleeder to relive the pressure. Monitor the fluid level, and watch whats coming out during caliper compression. I attached a picture that shows using a brake pad (to balance pressure on the caliper piston) - AND- shows cracking the bleeder - again I attach a hose, and run it to a jar with fluid in it. **ITS NOT MY PICTURE** but it does show what I am talking about (ok I googled it - I am not doing my brakes right now!)

I've used large Channelocks in the past, but the C-Clamp allows you to control the rate and pressure of compression (slow so you don't blow seals) and use an old brake pad - if any metal gets chunked or damaged, its the pad, not your piston in the caliper. You will also avoid pushing on the piston at an angle, which can damage it.