my 2-3 flare woes

[Bigg_billy]

Boost

Do I need to do this boost valve mod too, with my 5R55E questions? I want to hit all the bases. If I put in a new EPC, do I need to do the 75 ohm jumper Superior will supply with their kit?

Thanks,

Bill

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Bill, if I had it to do over, I'd install the Sonnax Boost Valve (cost is about $38). It increases the line pressure slightly, the same as the Superior PressureRiser. I would install either one, but not both, as the two together may increase the pressure too much.

A new EPC will restore pressure back to new stock conditions, as I suspect the old one gets 'tired' over time, due to it's constant dithering.

I'm not sure what actually causes the shift flaring. Some have cured it with the Ford blow-off valve kit and plate. Someone cured it with a new EPC. (An earlier poster in this thread had no luck using both the Ford kit and new EPC.) I fixed mine with the Ford kit, new EPC, bracket, and Superior kit. One thing I noticed in the Superior kit, was that a couple of the replacement spools were made out of steel, where the old stock spools were aluminum. Aluminum spools riding in an aluminum bore tend to gall, so maybe the stock spools were momentarily sticking in their bores...? And the steel replacements work smoother....? Just a theory.

Anyway, if I were you, I'd do the Ford kit w/plate, Sonnax boost valve, Superior kit, new EPC and bracket. This should cover all bases. I'm sure Glacier or someone with actual experience with the Sonnax valve will give you more info on this.....

ROE

 

[Bigg_billy]

Parts

ROE,

Thanks, I got my parts ordered today and I'll take it apart over the weekend. I meant to ask you what kind of mileage is normal for a Ford Explorer AT, 4L, 4WD? I bought it knowing the tranny was gone and my wife's been getting 12-13 mpg. I figured that was because the tranny was slipping and she really should be getting 18-19. Do you think that's about right.

I'll keep you posted as the work get's underway.

Thanks again,

Bill

 

[377Z]

377Z,

A 1998 Explorer uses a 5R55E. The last year for the 4R55E was 1996. You can follow the valve body rebuild thread that Glacier has provided.

Nomenclature for 5R55E:
5- five speed
R- Rear wheel drive
55 - torque capacity in ft-lb times 10= 550lb-ft You will see this show as 750N-m on the back of the case, since this trans is built in Europe. Divide by two to match to an engine since the torque converter doubles torque
E- electronic shift

This is a new std nomenclature for transmissions, and though I'm aware of it, I don't really know all the formal details

Hope this helps

Thanks for the info; my understanding was that they used the 4 speed behind all OHV 4.0's (which mine has). In any case, the forward speed shifter postions are D,2,1 not D,3,2,1.

In any case, I haven't done anything yet--I'm a little paranoid. Reason: Since the Ex began to act up, I performed a similar service to the family's other vehicle (1997 Bravada, 86K mi) that exhibited an occasional slight slide-bump 1-2 shift. After doing some research, I decided to do a complete fluid & filter change, & while the pan was down, install a mild Transgo heavy duty kit since shifts were always very slow/soft. Magnet did have a lot of gook on it, but thats par for the course on every AT pan I've pulled. Well, shortly after getting everything buttoned up (i.e. next day), the trans took a dump. I pulled the valvebody again & went over my work, everything looked correct. So, a basically routine $200 service turned into a $2500 rebuild. :fire: Shop confirmed the kit was installed correctly (whew) & said based on the damage it looked like it occured over long term. Thats well and good but if the service pushed the dying trans over the edge faster, well, I should have just left it alone as it surely would have lived longer without being touched.

I'm just afraid to monkey with it and render it immobile, as it is now it still drives fine if you let off for the 2-3 shift. However the other side of the coin is that with a slipping shift, wear is undoubtedly occuring faster & the trans will die sooner than if it operated properly. Decisions, decisions.

 

[Bigg_billy]

5r

Well depending on the miles, I'd adjust the bands and add a little Lucas tranny fix ($8.99). That will hold you until you decide what to do.

Bill

 

[SensRanger]

All right I am going to post an angry update to my woes. The shop I took it to rebuilt it with an 'overhaul box kit,' changed the EPC and a sensor on the outside of the case and a couple exhaust parts. Cdn$2200. The flare was gone! Things seemed fine, though I still thought engagements were just a shade slow (1 second, just not immediate) but I chalked that up to being used to the lightning fast engagements of my old civic and my roommates high miles BMW. That was a month ago. By coincidence brought it back just this morning for a check-up, and went for a drive with the service guy. Things were fine. Did some errands, parked at 4 pm. Started the truck at 10pm, (temp was about 17F or -8 celcius) put in R, went 3 feet and slipped out of gear! Thought I was just on an icy patch so gave it some gas and the RPMs were up to 3000+, let off, tried again a couple times and it banged into gear, went a bit father, slipped out, finally got onto the street, put it into D, same thing- went a bit, lose power, RPMs climb, bang back into gear...lost all power going up a small hill, but waited a few seconds and could go. Eventually it held 1st but slipped trying to shift into 2nd. After it warmed up a bit more, the symptoms completely disappeared. I drove to the arena and checked the fluid before my hockey game- it was about halfway in the crosshatched 'do not fill' area. 90 minutes later upon leaving there were no symptoms- seemed fine. I drove it and left it at the trans. shop anyway with a note and the keys. Does this sound familar to anyone or does anyone have any advice for my approach with this shop now???

 

[Bigg_billy]

Cdn

Well that sounds like $1600 USA and that's about what they charge to do a complete rebuild here. Find out what your $2200 included and what the "box kit" included and post the details back here.

 

[SensRanger]

Okay I guess I over-reacted a bit but considering the extreme slipping and recent rebuild I think it was warranted. The shop fixed it free a couple of hours after they opened. They got the same symptoms when cold after sitting overnight and dropped the pan. Apparently an o-ring around the filter? or something had a crack in it, right out of the overhaul kit from the 'factory'. Not noticed upon installation and it worked for a month. But I guess the crack widened and would not permit the correct apply pressure when cold. All fixed now.

 

[Glacier991]

Thanks for posting the fix. It adds to the knowledge base here.