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My 2004 Explorer

Well done. Now you have two SUV toys, what's next? Keep going.
 



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I don't know what is next, I will have to replace my 1998 4 door (completely stock) Explorer since it is starting do rust away on the passenger side rocker panel.
Of course I will look for another Explorer to replace it.
 






How about a 400HP Lincoln with AWD?

I'd hunt another 98-01, a Limited for the options, from the South of course. I chose the 98 because 99-01's got the huge gaudy fender flares which have tons of holes in the body to mount it all.

I mention the Lincoln because I just saw the new revised MKZ coming out this year, and later it will get a new 3.0 turbo. I like the current one, but it needed more power and I don't like the front end. So maybe 4-5 years from now I can look for one.
 






I installed a boost gauge so I could see how much is there, to my surprise It hit 10 lbs with the 3.3inch pulley.
The Exhaust system is probably causing some "boost stacking".
Boost Gauge.JPG
 






The IAT is in the MAF on my 2004. I installed another IAT in the lower intake manifold after the intercooler.
Once things are all functional, I should be able to measure the temperature drop across the intercooler.
For now I just switched back and forth to see how things looked. We are having extreme heat for this area, they said it was a real feel of 104 yesterday.
I saw 174 degree's intake air temps without any intercooler (not functional yet.) Using the IAT built into the MAF I saw 134 F.
So there is a 40 degree temp increase after the supercharger. I installed connectors to enable me to use either IAT.
IAT1.JPG
IAT Connector.JPG
 






MAF / Airfilter
The stock air filter box had the MAF location in a 2.5 inch hole. I need about a 3.5 inch so I swapped to a maf housing and K&N air filter.
This is only temporary since I am looking into other options right now. The set up I have now sucks under hood air which is really hot these days.
Air Filter MAF 2.JPG
Air Filter MAF.JPG
 






Progress, good going there. You said it about the IAT's, you should see something close to outside air at the air filter, while moving within 10 degrees.
 






Balance shaft chain tensioner removal



I only replaced the broken plastic piece, slides off the metal mount that bolts to the bottom of the balancer.
You have to remove the top plastic guide, the crankshaft woodruff key, then the gear on the crankshaft that the counter balance chain goes on, with the chain. Then you can get the broken pieces out.
Once the chain and broken tensioner pieces are out of the way you just slide the new one on the metal post. Then put the chain on.
I have heard of people bending the post but I didn't have to, the tensioner slid right in there. I did this on my 1998 4 door about 100,000 miles ago, probably time for another one on that truck.
Any idea how to remove the two balance shaft bolts that hold the tensioner? I used heat already and the heads are starting to get round. Tnx in advance.
 






My only advise is to use a quality inverted torx socket, I prefer SnapOn when I know it is critical.
Other than that, the heat should help.
 






4pointslow,

What does your Throttle Position % reading do? I had a scanner hooked up to my explorer, I have drive by cable, base is 20% and WOT is 83%... 17% unaccounted for?...

Hey Joe, I was reading through this thread again(playing with MAF stuff and want to get the right formula for area) and saw this question. It stuck out as I was just reading/studying about drive by wire tuning the last few months.
Anyway, the reason the throttle plate only hits 83% is because any more than that is useless because the plate will still be in the shadow(area) of the shaft and airflow will not increase. If the vehicle was tuned to actually go to 100% opening, the movement of the throttle plate vs. accelerator pedal would just loose resolution, and no real air flow increase would be obtained.
The two sources I was using were Greg Banish's Calibtated Success DVD on Ford tuning, and the New Coyote Cookbook (New 5.0 engine tuning book) from Don Lasota.

Some tuners set it to 90% but it is said that the extra 7% doesn't really get you more power.
 






If the throttle shaft is about a 1/4" thick, then the throttle plate can only move half of that from the centered(WOT) position, to where it would "unshroud" the shaft. That's only a few degrees.

I don't think that that tiny movement would be any large measurable amount, such as 17%.

I hadn't thought of the throttle shaft as a loss of airflow, but that's a big deal with carburetors. On those it's common to grind the shaft thinner, and grind down the shaft screws, flush with the shaft. TB's do have the advantage of not involving fuel, so they can be sized much bigger for the given application.
 






The air under the hood is kind of hot these days so I wanted to try to use a factory air box setup that would draw air from outside the engine bay.
The factory air box for the 4.0L sohc with the slot style maf was not going to work because it only has a 2.5 inch opening. Wow. Also I have a 2005 Mountaineer 4.6L 2 valve engine at work that has the slot style maf, it too has an opening of 2.5 inches.

Found a used air box and MAF from a 2002 Explorer with a 4.6L engine. The air box top fits right on the 4.0L lower box. The 4.0L stock air intake tube fits too.
The MAF connector is different so I located an adaptor made by JMS.
The inside of this MAF is about 80mm in the center where the maf goes, aprox 3.14 inches. I am not really that concerned about airflow at this time, the reason I am looking at the inside diameters is because that effects how much airflow they can measure(and so does the sensor itself). I also have a 90mm Lightning MAF I can try out if this one is close to pegging.
DSC05153.JPG
DSC05159.JPG
 






That's the best setup I've see. looks factory. lets hope you can keep the mar from pegging. awesome.
 












I thought you just put that PMAS on?
 






I thought you just put that PMAS on?

i did, and i do. what happen was we thought it was lost in shipping because fed ex showed it was delivered, but i never got it. they sent another one out. a week later the first one showed up...by mail. they told me to keep it, so...
 






I have been driving the truck with the Cobra supercharger on it and I have to say it is nice to have the passing power it has now.
Started driving it to work again at around 103414 miles.
Has 103701 now.
Still working on the tune, and will be working on installing the intercooler radiator, tank, pump etc in the future.
 






I bet it has a bit more giddyup in its step then it used to.. Only just a bit lol
 






FOG LIGHT

So when I bought this truck it had a few cosmetic problems. The truck took a light hit on the right front which left the fog light bezel broken and removed some paint from the bumper. The fog light was intact, at least until a truck on the turnpike flung a stone and hit dead center fog light (what are the chances).
I am just glad it was not my windshield since I have been through 5 or 6 in eleven years. The bulb still worked.
Fortunately I was able to find one on eBay with a bezel, and since I was going to have the bumper off to install the intercooler radiator I figured it would be a good time to replace that poor fog light. One day I may do something about that paint.
DSC05180.JPG

DSC00045.JPG
 



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INTERCOOLER RADIATOR on 2004 EXPLORER

Last weekend I found some time to install the intercooler radiator. The part is from a 2009 GT500.
It was hard getting in it there, a 03-04 Cobra intercooler may be easier to fit behind the front bumper.
I experimented with it being in two places(above and below?) and ended up putting it in the above position you see in the pictures.
The fit with the hose nipples was much easier to accomplish there and it will be in line with the airflow from the factory radiator fan.
Also it may be out of the line of fire from stones being flung at it on the highway.
There is an interesting air scoop behind the front bumper, it seems some air is directed below and some above a metal cross beam support.
I mounted the electric coolant pump on the frame rail kind of like I did on my 1998 supercharged Explorer.
Now that it is all back together you can not see the stuff, unless you look for it.

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