Completed Project My 98 super charged EX

[CDW6212R]

You might build a cover box to fit over it when it's away from the track. But it'll have to be solidly mounted. I'd rather it be directly attached to the floor, not in a container that could be easier to displace, or break free. I like the OEM appearance, subtle to not attract attention. A box that appears to be a woofer enclosure might not attract too much attention. The quarter panels are probably not big enough for a 10lbs bottle, it'd be close though. Here's the Stealthbox that fits in the right rear;

Placed there you would likely have to cut the quarter trim and it stick out some. That's where the idea of a box to cover it I thought of.

 

[4pointslow]

Already have a MTX sub enclosure on the right rear and that is staying, I have to have music to listen to on the ride to the race track.
Music without a little base is just not complete. lol.

I like the box idea though. keeping the bottle hidden just in case I ever get pulled over going to or from the track.
There is a cool picture on the net where someone hid it in the seat foam under the rear seat, they cut out some of the foam to make it fit.
In the past I have seen some pictures of bottles hidden in what just appeared to be a tool box in the back of the vehicle.
A metal box might also add protection to the bottle, I have seen where bottles got damaged and they look like a jet engine flying around by themselves.
Pretty scary.

The GT500 kits say they start at 50HP, I wonder what jet sizes they are. I want to start out with the smallest size possible.
Doing some web searching I saw kits they called safe kits, I think they started at 15HP.
I will have to buy some jets separately so I need to find out what sizes and brand/style. I guess I will stick with what ever brand kit I go with.
The Nitrous Outlet Kit looks like it will work better for me where the lines attach to the nitrous plate, maybe I will go with that one.

 

[CDW6212R]

Sounds good, I'd stay with the small kits too, the 50hp level is a great starting point.

I know you have had good reliability from the 5R trans. I would build another one and have it ready, just in case. If superstitious, build it when the truck isn't there. I wish Ford had built the 5-speeds stronger, but they went with the small case designs. I thought the AOD was a small case, but would fit in any vehicle. Then I saw an E4OD and realized what the big ones were(the Super Duty line). Those are monsters, obviously good for big towing.

 

[boominXplorer]

I ran through about 20 10lb bottles of nitrous in my Mountaineer between the ages of 17-19. It took my heavy 4dr v8 truck from a 10.3 to all the way to a 9.0 in the 1/8 with 1.6 60 ft times. To do it legit in an suv you need to have a blow down tube installed. A bottle heater is a must and I'd definitely keep in in the cab where it won't cool off quickly. I like the toolbox install idea.

Get a gauge so you can monitor bottle pressure from the drivers seat. A bottle with 1000psi vs 1250psi is a big difference in hp on the same jet. Also heat helps the pressure rise and makes it "last longer".

I also had a purge kit but I think it only had minimal effect to my small dry shot. I didn't notice any better et or 60fts purging. On a big shot or individual cylinder setup it would be more helpful I'd think.

 

[4pointslow]

So a nitrous gauge that is electric but has a sensor that goes on the bottle.
Would you use a digital or analog electric gauge?

 

[4pointslow]

Sounds good, I'd stay with the small kits too, the 50hp level is a great starting point.

I know you have had good reliability from the 5R trans. I would build another one and have it ready, just in case. If superstitious, build it when the truck isn't there. I wish Ford had built the 5-speeds stronger, but they went with the small case designs. I thought the AOD was a small case, but would fit in any vehicle. Then I saw an E4OD and realized what the big ones were(the Super Duty line). Those are monsters, obviously good for big towing.

I have the transmission from my 4 door 98 that has metal in the fluid to rebuild. (I put a used one in it).
Got a pump, torque converter, and valve body so far. Just got to get time to tear it apart to see what bearing failed.
Hoping next spring I can rebuild it and have it ready.

If I can find another 1998 Explorer 4 door 4.0L SOHC with no rust I will buy it and part out my rusty one.
Then I will have another transmission and engine to rebuild.
If I can not find another 98 4door I may have to get something else like another 2004 4 door.
I really want another 98 though.

 

[boominXplorer]

I had an analog gauge then (sender mounted at the tank with pillar mounted gauge) but then this is over 10 years ago so digital might be the way to go now.

I'm trying to remember what jets I was using. I think the biggest one I used was a .054. I feel it's going to make a huge difference for you and make a ton of power by reducing your IAT even with a small shot.

 

[jd4242]

Aww man what have i missed out on..lol

I run the NX proton kit..its the typical screw in nozzle. .i like the plates but honestly for the cost they aren't worth it unless spraying a bigger shot..id look around on some of the Mustang pages and see what they say..i do run a filter and a quick disconnect fitting on the bottle..my guage is on the bottle also(i run about 950ish psi and have a 15lb bottle) and i currently dont have a bottle warmer but i also dont typically spray back to back runs so my pressure normally stays fine..i do like to purge especially if you have a long line..tank has to be bolted down and vented outside

Id spray a 75 shot on any motor and NX doesn't even suggest timing changes till larger than that,only cold plugs for NA..your make more power than advertised though especially if you keep the shot small(under 150)..

Its NOTHING like the movies till you get to about a 250+ shot,you honestly wont feel much if any difference under a 100 shot besides the time sheet or unless lined up next to someone,my motor ""tone"" changes but its not like it throws you back and all of a sudden you take off...lol

Personally i wouldn't start with anything under a 50-75 shot..its not worth it and your waste time trying to make changes that aren't that big. .if your scared start with a 50 shot,id spray my scooter with that...lol

 

[boominXplorer]

Thing is a 50 shot might equate to 100 HP if your iat lowers a bunch to improve combustability and if you don't have to pull timing in the end. I don't think it will necessarily double the power of the shot but this puts a whole new thought of how much can the stock bottom end can take. I'm not sure where your at now but you've got to be coming up on 500whp with giggle gas.

 

[jd4242]

Thing is a 50 shot might equate to 100 HP if your iat lowers a bunch to improve combustability and if you don't have to pull timing in the end. I don't think it will necessarily double the power of the shot but this puts a whole new thought of how much can the stock bottom end can take. I'm not sure where your at now but you've got to be coming up on 500whp with giggle gas.

Yea it wont double,only time it makes huge difference is when IAT drop and you can add timing..this is only for FI and only if IAT are high and timing is low..

Think he said hes around 130 IAT and 26* timing. .thats low temps and high timing for FI on 93 gas..ill doubt he will be able to add anything so the power gained will be closer to advertised..he also has the spark knock system i cant remember the name of..lol

One thing id look into though, i dont think or know if you can spray W/M and nitrous at same time,i would think not..this would change alot..

Bottom end id start to worry about also above 75 shot with as much boost as your running....ring gap id like to see opened up at least and those rods would be next..

Id still start at 50 but if you want i have 35 (N31 & G18) jets and 50s (N35 & G20) if your kit dont come that low..im not using any thing smaller than a (N41 & G28<i run larger Gas jet for Ethanol)..

 

[4pointslow]

I have heard that sometimes you get double HP out of nitrous when you are boosted. Different for every setup I am sure.
The other day I came across something on a water methanol website that said you could spray both, I am going to give it a try.

JD thanks for posting that HP to jet comparison chart, I was wondering about sizes and this is the first I have seen on the subject.
I was thinking that a kit I end up with might have its own chart, and I wonder how different or similar it would be.

 

[jd4242]

I have heard that sometimes you get double HP out of nitrous when you are boosted. Different for every setup I am sure.
The other day I came across something on a water methanol website that said you could spray both, I am going to give it a try.

JD thanks for posting that HP to jet comparison chart, I was wondering about sizes and this is the first I have seen on the subject.
I was thinking that a kit I end up with might have its own chart, and I wonder how different or similar it would be.

It definitely would vary,i doubt anyone gets double unless they had high iat and low timing..think i got like 124ish hp off the 75shot back when i was on 93..think we ended adding 3* timing,want to say i was only at like 16* and 19* on nitrous. .that was a very conservative tune though. .

i haven't dyno it with e50 and sprayed it but ive gone through maybe 4- 15 lb bottles on my last motor and i was spraying on the e50 tune with 21*,i didnt have a different tune for nitrous. .i will tell you going from 93 to e50 the truck was faster without NX than spraying on 93,also when spraying on the e50 compared to the 93 it doesnt seem to "hit" as hard when on same 75shot..i ended up spraying a bigger shot

Hmm i would definitely read more about the W/M ..it might also have to do with the mixture %..i would think the water would crystallize depending on how its mixed

I also would be interested in if the jets are different,probably sooo...id guess the orifice size(hole in jet) is same...i know all NX shark nozzle jets are same..

O also what pump, lines, psi, return/returnless,injectors and duty cycle you at??

 

[4pointslow]

LOL, you ask the right questions.
Stock fuel lines and filter, LOL!!!!
Return system, Mallory Adjustable fuel pressure regulator with boost reference.
I run at stock fuel pressure 39.15 at 0 vacuum and pressure. Aprox 29 at idle with 20 inches vacuum, and hitting 57-58 with boost(16-18 lbs).
Setting the fuel pressure to same as vehicle came with makes tuning and PCM calculations more precise.
I have 60lb SiemensDeka injectors. It has been a while since I looked at injector duty cycle but I have a thread on injectors and O2 monitors LOL.
I will have to look at a current datalog to see where duty cycle is.
The Pump is a Walbro but sadly if I recall correctly it is a 190 LPH pump. Time to upgrade.

With my current setup I have NO fuel starvation issues, but with a wet Nitrous kit that should quickly change.
There is a tap on my fuel pressure regulator that I can attach the fuel feed line for the nitrous to.

I also have a fuel pressure gauge on my left door pillar so I can keep an eye on it at all times.

 

[Dono]

Is anybody spraying meth along with their nitrous? - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
Scroll right to the bottom. The vendor "Nitrous Express" commented

 

[4pointslow]

Is anybody spraying meth along with their nitrous? - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
Scroll right to the bottom. The vendor "Nitrous Express" commented

That was one of the comments I saw the other day, and one reason I think it will work.

 

[4pointslow]

My injector Duty Cycle seemed to peak at 77% in one of my last datalogs. Not too bad.

 

[CDW6212R]

With a 190lthr pump working now, a 255 or 340 depending on the new needs, ought to work fine. If you had/have other fuels like E85, then you'd be looking at all new fuel lines etc. The NO2 may be the right last step to keep it street friendly.

 

[4pointslow]

With a 190lthr pump working now, a 255 or 340 depending on the new needs, ought to work fine. If you had/have other fuels like E85, then you'd be looking at all new fuel lines etc. The NO2 may be the right last step to keep it street friendly.

I agree,
And with the old return fuel system this truck has I will stick with the Gerotor style Walbro pump design, I thought it was a 250 LPH but maybe it was 255.
I have a 340 turbine style in my 2004 since the fuel pump is duty cycled, and it is way too much pump for my needs. lol. Maybe I should get ARP head studs for that truck and go nuts with it. lol.

 

[4pointslow]

Here is a screenshot of my injector duty cycle, I added a calculated pid in Live Link.
The formula is
(Fuel PW in clock tics / (number of cylinders X time between pip edges in clock tics)) X 100

 

[CDW6212R]

I agree,
And with the old return fuel system this truck has I will stick with the Gerotor style Walbro pump design, I thought it was a 250 LPH but maybe it was 255.
I have a 340 turbine style in my 2004 since the fuel pump is duty cycled, and it is way too much pump for my needs. lol. Maybe I should get ARP head studs for that truck and go nuts with it. lol.

Here's the 255lthr pump I bought this Summer, for my 99 truck that'll be a 306 NA eventually, and to put a pair of in my 98. They come with strainers, which may save a few dollars if they match the OEM one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NTOCQM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This seller provides a lifetime warrantee, kind of rare for fuel pumps. They also sell a couple of 340 pumps, one for E85 specifically.
Automotive 1998 Ford Explorer 5.0L