my first explorer with 200k what oil to run

[zaathur151]

I just picked up a 94 explorer with the 4.0L with 200,000 miles seems to have no leaks that i can see and is not consuming any oil, what would be the best oil to run with that kind of miles? thanks....

 

[Jason94sport]

I run regular 10w30. Changed every 3K miles. On this engine I feel doesn't matter what you use. I'm not a believer in high $ oil in something this old.

 

[Sedition]

10w40 Semi Synthetic

 

[rhauf]

the manufacturer recommended 10w30. run that it'll work great

i have had horrible luck with synthetic, so i wouldn't recommend it.
also stay away from "high mileage" oils. they are designed to stop leaks (which you don't have) and sometimes work well for that but other times cause problems.

any quality 10w30 should work fine, just change it after 5,000 miles or so.. castrol is good

 

[arco777]

I ran high mileage oil for a long time with no issues. Switched back to regular recently, but never had a problem with HM oil. 10W30 or 5W30 works fine in these motors, just use good quality stuff. I run Mobil 1 full synthetic.

More important than the oil you use is the filter. Use a quality one. Motorcraft is good stuff and it's cheap. Stay away from FRAM!

 

[tweakedlogic]

+1 on the filter. I use the Mobile 1 filters because of how fine the filtration is. After 5,000 miles (full synthetic oil) my oil is only a little darker than new. With standard filters it can be quite dirty.

The high mileage oils also have detergents to wash away sludge. Not a bad thing in an old motor.

When I get a new to me vehicle, I always flush all fluids thoroughly. I'll use a crank case flush with new cheap oil and filter, then change it with more cheap oil and filter, then again if needed (usually not) then I'll use the good stuff. Same with all fluids. including brake, clutch, transmission, transfer case, front and rear axles. The front axle is the hardest by far. If you are interested, I'll tell you my secret to make it easier.

 

[arco777]

The front axle is the hardest by far. If you are interested, I'll tell you my secret to make it easier.

I'm interested!

One of my Explorers front axle oil was fine; the other was milky... yuck. I learned that siphon pumps don't work worth beans but eventually got it taken care of. Is there an easier way than drilling through the bottom bolt hole?

 

[wood1]

I run a full synthetic, what problems have you had rhauf?

 

[mr cribb]

I ran motorcraft semi synthetic 5w30 from 194k (when I got it) to 216k, I just put in mobil1 full synthetic 5w30. I use mine for pizza delivery so the longer service interval is better for me. I now have 218k on it.

I can say that by switching to mobil1 I have NOT heard the pushrod tapping on a cold start up like I did with the semi synthetic.

I have only ran motorcraft filters on mine.

 

[rhauf]

I run a full synthetic, what problems have you had rhauf?

at first i was gungho on the synthetic oils, i argued with everyone who said "it'll cause leaks" etc.. afterall, that didn't make sense logically. i also argued with the "old timers" who swore by the dyno oil.. i was sold on the round molecules and all the other marketing hype of synthetic.. so i ran it in everything... i soon ate my words.

in my bronco and my moms topaz (both high mileage) they quickly developed far more oil leaks then they had before.. ok i can live with a few oil leaks if its in the name of good lubrication, so i kept running it.

in my '93 explorer, i was running the "guaranteed 15,000 miles" synthetic.. i changed it after 10,000 (approx 6 months). the engine was cold when i changed it, and it resembled grease or roofing tar more than oil when it came out.. it was so thick and gummy it was actually hard to get it to drain. when i first took the plug out nothing came.. yes, it was THAT bad. after that, i never ran it again. it was a full synthetic, Valvoline if i recall.

additionally, my friends WRX spun some bearings on synthetic oil which had gummed up in a similar manner. and he changes it at 3k. at least that's what i heard.

needless to say, i'm running dyno again and i have no complaints.

 

[Sedition]

Wow, I could never let my oil go 10,000 miles. Even though I use a Semi Synthetic I also run the SOHC engine. The SOHC punishes the hell out of oil, I have to change every 3,000miles.

Also I hear using a diesel oil can be good for sludge buildup with the type of detergent used in it.

 

[colintrax]

I haven't had any issues running full syn, 10,000 is a long time regardless of what they say it can do. I change at 4,000-5,000

 

[mr cribb]

in my '93 explorer, i was running the "guaranteed 15,000 miles" synthetic.. i changed it after 10,000 (approx 6 months).

I dunno about the 15k oil change. The most I would push is 10k. I have my reminder sticker set at 6k to check it.... depending on condition it may or may not go at that time. Even if I have to change it at 6k, I'm still a 1up on what I normally use. Pizza delivery is hard on an engine. Also as I mentioned in an earlier post, I noticed my "4.0 tick" has gone away on a cold start.

My old oil was good to about 2500, then it needed to go, but we all know city stop and go is hard on any engine.

 

[Jason94sport]

Oil changes on my SRT8 are ridiculous. Needs 7 quarts of Mobil 1 plus the filter every 5K miles.
I'm glad I don't have to spend much on the explorer.

 

[zaathur151]

Thanks for the reply's i forgot to mention I only start this explorer once a week if that so it does a lot of setting would that affect what oil to run?

 

[arco777]

Thanks for the reply's i forgot to mention I only start this explorer once a week if that so it does a lot of setting would that affect what oil to run?

Not really.

 

[Jason94sport]

Thanks for the reply's i forgot to mention I only start this explorer once a week if that so it does a lot of setting would that affect what oil to run?

I only drive mine about once a week. I do have to watch the level though as I have some leaks.

 

[tweakedlogic]

I'm interested!

One of my Explorers front axle oil was fine; the other was milky... yuck. I learned that siphon pumps don't work worth beans but eventually got it taken care of. Is there an easier way than drilling through the bottom bolt hole?

I don't know about easier, but it works. I didn't feel comfortable drilling into the bottom bolt hole, so I came up with this.

I requires hose, compressed air, old rags, and time.
The hose should be long enough to reach the bottom of the case and come out to a catch pan. I think I used a 3/8s, but it might have been a 1/2. It left me with enough room to put the tip of my air blow "gun" in the fill hole and stuff around them with an old rag. I used a bolt in the vent hose, then i pressurized the case (holding the rags in place tightly) and the milk flowed freely into the catch can. When it was empty enough, I filled with cheap lube, ran the 4wd (on jack stands or lift) for a few minutes, and repeated the above steps until lube came out clean. then I filled back up with the Purple stuff.

A little time consuming, but effective without getting shavings in the case.

 

[tweakedlogic]

it was a full synthetic, Valvoline if i recall.

needless to say, i'm running dyno again and i have no complaints.

I've seen that with Valvoline and Quakerstate. I will never use those oils due to how many customer vehicles came in with just what you described. Mobile1 has changed their formula and from what I've read it isn't that great. The lighter oils will sear to even lighter weight after about 2k. I still use it from time to time, but the 10-40. mostly, I use Royal Purple when I can find it.

 

[mr cribb]

I have never used RP oils.... heard great stuff about them.

I gotta change the oil in wife's truck this weekend she's complaining.... and to be honest it's got 12k on it since last change, and it's been a year. The 4.7 in her durango might as well be an SRT8 motor with as much gas as it drinks.